2005 Mastiff advice!

[desertdawg]

My wife's carb mastiff builds huge compression especially with the choke engaged......been using a lithium x2 on both her bike and my k9 for 3yrs now with no problems......fuel in tank is bad.....drain......carb is stuck unless you have removed float bowl cleaned and reset float.....once fuel system is reestablished pull plugs and crank over with no fuel check for spark in dark...probably get 2 plugs gap then install...use antiseize and torque 16 foot pounds.....the flashing tach/ flashers and horn are telling you you're batt has insufficient amperage to cycle the starting system and all the rest....thus we went to lithium as we grew tired of the big dog battery dance.....once you get the bike to turn over easily turn on the fuel and set choke....lastly, your voltage regulatory REQUIRES inspection (silver doodad between down tubes behind front tire) your bike, as my wife's were involved in a recall that was because of that component actually catching fire. The bike does need to be running for this to occur so get that thing inspected. Better yet replacement. If you think you're gonna just wing it without a service manual you're doomed......they're easy to fix and maintain but require tools and research unless you're a bike mechanic....

And I misspoke about the regulator fire.......it doesn't need to be running to catch fire!

 

[chubs]

Check your battery voltage after you charge it, then check it while trying to start the bike. Just because the battery is new, doesn't necessarily mean it isn't bad.

 

[chubs]

Also forgot to ask, What brand of battery did you buy, and how many CCA (cold cranking amps) is it rated at?

 

[Mickmorris]

Yes, headlights, speedometer, turn signals all come on when I turn the key on. When I hit the start button it cranks once then stops, and then the horn honks and turn signals flash (not sure if that is related to the problem or not). I will have to look tonight if any lights are flashing on the EHC. I am not familiar with EHC, what if any lights should be flashing on the EHC or lights flashing in general a bad thing?

Weak battery. Do you have a jump pack that you can connect to the battery one time to see if it will crank over more than one time? Sounds like your battery has a bad cell. Also if the bike sat for that long you are going to need to drop the bowl on the carb and see what it looks like inside. Just adding fresh gas won’t help after sitting that long. Probably needs a good cleaning or more. Take a couple of pictures of everything under the seat. So we can see what you see.

 

[Rottweiler]

With a fully charged battery. Take both plugs out. Turn key on, press the run then the start. Let us know if it cranks over good or not.

 

[desertdawg]

One thing nobody's addressed........you still got your dad? Man o' man......if my old man was buying/ridin' big dog's...........that grounds for worship if he can, he can help you with the original ehc as it will self test, then show steady lights based on active circuits......don't condemn it off hand as they were pretty robust but couldn't tolerate fools crossing circuits or applying power to grounds.....(think repairs with battery still connected). Popping the battery ground free takes nothing and will save your ass.....if you dad can't help I'm sorry.

 

[Alpineduck]

One thing nobody's addressed........you still got your dad? Man o' man......if my old man was buying/ridin' big dog's...........that grounds for worship if he can, he can help you with the original ehc as it will self test, then show steady lights based on active circuits......don't condemn it off hand as they were pretty robust but couldn't tolerate fools crossing circuits or applying power to grounds.....(think repairs with battery still connected). Popping the battery ground free takes nothing and will save your ass.....if you dad can't help I'm sorry.

I still have my dad, for now. His health has really gone down hill fast. Thank you for asking!

 

[Mikeinjersey]

Your bike has the classic symptoms of a weak or poorly connected battery. I'm not familiar with the battery you purchased but for $60 I would tend to think it's not very good. These engines require a lot of punch to crank and the recommended Deka ETX20L in post #3 is what you should get in order to be certain of having an adequate battery. FYI when disconnecting a battery always start with the Neg (ground side) first and then the Positive. When installing a battery do the opposite by connecting the Positive side first followed up by the Negative side.
To test your lights and blinkers , turn the key on and select the left and right blinkers at the same time and the emergency flashers will come on.
To start your bike it requires you to first turn the key on, then select the Run button and then the Start button. You claim you get one crank so that would indicate the starting sequence works.
Have the fuel supply off and pull the spark plugs as suggested in post #25 and crank away. If it cranks freely your starting system is fine and you will need to blame the battery or your compression releases for the problem.
If you didn't drain the fuel before adding fresh fuel, I would dump it all and refill. The old gas will contaminate the fresh and you may not be able to get the bike running correctly or possibly gum up the Carb for future issues.
One step at a time, let's get the bike to start cranking good.

 

[Rottweiler]

Just looked up that battery you said you bought. No No No That ain't going to work!!!!!!!!!

 

[Alpineduck]

Just looked up that battery you said you bought. No No No That ain't going to work!!!!!!!!!

ok, thank you. I will return and get a Deka ETX20L

 

[Alpineduck]

Your bike has the classic symptoms of a weak or poorly connected battery. I'm not familiar with the battery you purchased but for $60 I would tend to think it's not very good. These engines require a lot of punch to crank and the recommended Deka ETX20L in post #3 is what you should get in order to be certain of having an adequate battery. FYI when disconnecting a battery always start with the Neg (ground side) first and then the Positive. When installing a battery do the opposite by connecting the Positive side first followed up by the Negative side.
To test your lights and blinkers , turn the key on and select the left and right blinkers at the same time and the emergency flashers will come on.
To start your bike it requires you to first turn the key on, then select the Run button and then the Start button. You claim you get one crank so that would indicate the starting sequence works.
Have the fuel supply off and pull the spark plugs as suggested in post #25 and crank away. If it cranks freely your starting system is fine and you will need to blame the battery or your compression releases for the problem.
If you didn't drain the fuel before adding fresh fuel, I would dump it all and refill. The old gas will contaminate the fresh and you may not be able to get the bike running correctly or possibly gum up the Carb for future issues.
One step at a time, let's get the bike to start cranking good.

Thank you for the advice!!

 

[Olde Man]

It helps when trying to start them to blip the throttle a couple of times to allow the accelerator pump to squirt some fuel and prime the engine. The important part is that you then leave the throttle to go closed. This helps lower the effective compression ratio which makes it easier to turn over.