Been Sitting long enough

Energy One

Sven

Well-Known Member
Agree with the 3 variables. But I'm going with general bike parts of the BD units and C/S's. More C/S fail with the thermo cycles to its (55C) peak heat cycle. Rare are the frayed wires and black boxes if the chase is quick and sacrifice a good known part thrown at it.
 

Big Daddy 72

Custom Street Rod Interiors & Design
I guess I didnt have it from here.

Not the crank sensor.

Sending my ehc off to Mr. Wright to have it tested.

Anyone know how to test the ignition module?

I got the spray, really didnt learn anything with it, but now its apart so cant test with that as the module is out and so is the ehc.

New Parts:
1.) Brand new battery
2.) new crank sensor
same issue...

It doesnt just die it starts to brake up miss firing backfireing then will clean up and run ok for 10 minutes then die. It ran for 30 is minutes at one point today so I had a bunch of heat in it but I did have the side covers off.

I went over all the wiring, abouslutey nothing obvious. This bike on has 1500 miles on since Shannon tore it down so I highly doubt the wiring is damaged

Once it dies if you cycle the key it will fire back up

but misfires or dies again right away, sometimes will be ok for a bit. If you dont cycle the key no fire to the plugs.

If anyone can tell me how to test these that would be great:

1.) coil
2.) ignition module

anything else I might be overlooking?

The charging system and all other ele seems to be working just fine. Just Ignition problems.
 

Jersey Big Mike

100K mile club
I guess I didnt have it from here.

Not the crank sensor.

Sending my ehc off to Mr. Wright to have it tested.

Anyone know how to test the ignition module?

I got the spray, really didnt learn anything with it, but now its apart so cant test with that as the module is out and so is the ehc.

New Parts:
1.) Brand new battery
2.) new crank sensor
same issue...

It doesnt just die it starts to brake up miss firing backfireing then will clean up and run ok for 10 minutes then die. It ran for 30 is minutes at one point today so I had a bunch of heat in it but I did have the side covers off.

I went over all the wiring, abouslutey nothing obvious. This bike on has 1500 miles on since Shannon tore it down so I highly doubt the wiring is damaged

Once it dies if you cycle the key it will fire back up

but misfires or dies again right away, sometimes will be ok for a bit. If you dont cycle the key no fire to the plugs.

If anyone can tell me how to test these that would be great:

1.) coil
2.) ignition module

anything else I might be overlooking?

The charging system and all other ele seems to be working just fine. Just Ignition problems.
If it fires right back up, it's very unlikely a heat related failure so the spray won't help.
Does it do this if you fire it up and let it run but are not riding (ie bike sitting still?)

It sounds like something is temporarily interrupting the power to the system.
Key switch, bad connection on a plug in connector or a bad wire. (given the smaller than normal gauge of the wires used on the big dog this is easier to happen that you'd think.

I would check the key switch and maybe even try bypassing it to that.
I'd look at all the connector on the ehc and clean tham well with a contact cleaner spray and then use dielectric grease to keep water out.

Ignition modules usually fail with heat and need to be cooled down before they fire up again, so I doubt it;'s that.

Have you check your VR output? What is it charging the bike at? At idle, at 2k rpm?
Severe voltage fluctuations can drive the EHC nuts.
Are all the battery connections tight?
 

Big Daddy 72

Custom Street Rod Interiors & Design
if you cycle the key, it will start, sometimes it will run ok for 30 seconds to a minute then brake up and shut off again. sometimes it will do it twice or 3 times in a row then run for 10-15 minutes with zero issues then looses power brakes up and dies.

Usually it will start but brakes up and takes excessive cranking.

When it starts to die it looses power its not just a key switch off scenario

I have went over everything on the wiring. No bare wires no loose connections.

I dont know much about big dogs but I have built tons of cars. its not like a key on and off situation it acts like an ignition problem/failure.

power is not being cut on and off, it runs perfect then dies or starts to quickly brake up then dies.

Im probably not explaining it very well.

I have not checked the vr output, but the rest of the eletrical system works just fine and the voltage on the battery doesnt drop after riding. It has plenty of power to continue cranking until it fires again.

It runs perfect when it is running.

I cleaned the main harness plugs and greased them less than 200 miles ago.

Can the handlebar/ignition start run and off components cause this?
 
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Big Daddy 72

Custom Street Rod Interiors & Design
Does anyone know how to test the ignition module and coil?
If I could it would be nice to eliminate those two.
 

HMAN

I just like my Freedom
Supporting Member
Hey, Have ya looked in the the gas tank? Ifn its been sitting for a while there is a chance the tank liner may have flaked off some? That is if it its lined? If ya see crap in there, drain the tank n pull the petcock. Jm thoughts man.
 

Mickmorris

Well Known Member
Supporting Member
YouTube is your friend. Plenty of videos there explain how to test your coil. It’s really very simple with a multimeter. Do you have a single fire or dual fire coil? Not sure about the ignition but it would help to know what ignition you actually have on your motorcycle. Please post a couple pictures of what you have if possible. But certainly check what Harry mentioned about the fuel tank. Because that is a known issue for sure.
:cheers: :chopper:
 

Big Daddy 72

Custom Street Rod Interiors & Design
Hey, Have ya looked in the the gas tank? Ifn its been sitting for a while there is a chance the tank liner may have flaked off some? That is if it its lined? If ya see crap in there, drain the tank n pull the petcock. Jm thoughts man.
I pulled the gas cap off it looks to me like there is no liner in the tank. The Bike is 07-08 k9 carbureted
 

Chong

U-235
Well .. I found a leaf in my fuel tank once .
Simular issue's . It would end up staving for fuel .

I'd get a windex bottle, fill it with fuel and take the air cleaner off and fog it when it wants to die ..

This is no shit, I used to race some pretty hi preformance go karts .. one day I had a intermittent run problem ... after about 4hrs lost on a test day ( racing 250 miles from home) I found a friking Japanese beatle in a fuel line .. LMAO
 
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Jersey Big Mike

100K mile club
All I see in it is obviously fuel and bare metal.
Try this - start the bike and when you "lose power" rock the bike side to side and that will jostle everything in the tank and ususally will move anything that is impedeing the flow of gas..
drain the tank then pull and check the petcock/builtin filter.
Ohm the coil and visually inspect for cracks in casing.
 

SCC007

Active Member
You might have an issue with fuel...my Mastiff did this for a while (or similar) and it drove me crazy...finally found that it was the fuel tank liner plugging up the flow of the petcock screen and subsequently the jets. Would start and run but then sputter and die, sometimes it would run for a while other times it wouldn't even start/run.
Anyway another place to look.
 

Mikeinjersey

Well-Known Member
Does anyone know how to test the ignition module and coil?
If I could it would be nice to eliminate those two.
This might help you figure it out. You replaced the CR so that's not it . The next most likely is the coil and lastly the Ignition module. Inspect the coil closely for signs of damage or bad ohm readings. I don't think you can test the Ignition Module. The EHC only provides power to the module so it would be the least likely to be the issue.
When it fails, look for the light on the ignition module to see if it's lit while cranking.
 

Attachments

Sven

Well-Known Member
The black box can absolutely do this. My first bike had an ignition module in the nose cone and failed exactly this way.
Here at throw the dice at too many parts, the Meguyveer in me has the mighty amazing goop glue a.k.a E6000 and glued to the cone is the spray me down. Some kind of setup to shoot the can of freeze from the handlebar if not a reach around, longer line aimed at the BB. Glue aims the hit, glue mounts the can. The bike starts so I'd hop on it with can [hose line] at/in the cone, ride, and when that time window is close, I'd freeze the Black Box and see if it still will run past the time window.

This will eliminate the CS and any kind of fuel flow. It then points to the BB.
 
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