Been Sitting long enough

Big Daddy 72

Custom Street Rod Interiors & Design
Well well well the guy that only comes around when he needs something. Yes it is I.

My 08 k9 has been on the blink for a couple of years now. I fire it up every once in a while but cant ride it more than around the block. I need to get it fixed so here is the issue.

Starts and runs fine for about 10-15 minutes it will shut off and not restart for a few minutes then it will fire and run from anywhere to 30 seconds to a couple minutes then dies sometimes it will pop miss and backfire before it shuts off.

Seems like an ignition control module, 99% sure its electrical but dont wanna throw the parts cannon at it if I can help it.

It has a good battery and connectors are clean and greased.

Any suggestions are more than welcome.
 

HMAN

I just like my Freedom
Supporting Member
Crank sensor crapping out? Gas cap not venting? Try a ride with a can of CRC freeze spray n hit the the crank sensor when it stops. If she fires back up, ya found it. When she starts to sputter, loosen the gas cap. Simple stuff but ??
I was wondering if you was still lurking about? Good to hear from ya.
 

Jersey Big Mike

100K mile club
Well well well the guy that only comes around when he needs something. Yes it is I.

My 08 k9 has been on the blink for a couple of years now. I fire it up every once in a while but cant ride it more than around the block. I need to get it fixed so here is the issue.

Starts and runs fine for about 10-15 minutes it will shut off and not restart for a few minutes then it will fire and run from anywhere to 30 seconds to a couple minutes then dies sometimes it will pop miss and backfire before it shuts off.

Seems like an ignition control module, 99% sure its electrical but dont wanna throw the parts cannon at it if I can help it.

It has a good battery and connectors are clean and greased.

Any suggestions are more than welcome.
Most likely ignition related, could be ignition module or crank sensor.
Since it is obviously a heat related issue, I would recommend getting a can of freeze spray.
Start the bike and run it till it cuts off. Averging several attempts will not hurt.
Time about how long you need to wait before you can restart ( 1/2 of this time to be safe will be your test window)

Once you know your safe test window (the time which you know self cooling doesn't fix the issue)
Start the bike and run it till it dies,.
Use the freeze spray on ignition or crank sensor (only one per test cycle and see if chilling that part allows it to start up again.
Be careful not to run the battery down to far with all these starts and short runs.
You may need to do one item charge thebattery back up and then do the other (worse case)


When I was an electronic tech back in the early 80's, we went thru this stuff at an insane rate but it was one of the fastest ways to find compnent failure in complex systems.
 

Big Daddy 72

Custom Street Rod Interiors & Design
Went on lowes website and this is no longer available. I see were they are selling it on ebay for double the price. Where does a guy buy a crank sensor. My thought is if I pay $30.00 for a can of spray am I already 1/2 way to the cost of the part being tested? Any thoughts?
 

Jersey Big Mike

100K mile club
Went on lowes website and this is no longer available. I see were they are selling it on ebay for double the price. Where does a guy buy a crank sensor. My thought is if I pay $30.00 for a can of spray am I already 1/2 way to the cost of the part being tested? Any thoughts?
Well the freeze spray does not go bad and will be avialable to test another failure (car, bike etc)
Any by my math 30 is 1/4 of 125 for the crank sensor not half.
It's certainly your choice but if its not the sensor and then you have to replace the ignition module (albeit less likely) you will be even further in the "hole"
If youare happy shotgun'ing the issue -- then go for it.
 

Big Daddy 72

Custom Street Rod Interiors & Design
Well the freeze spray does not go bad and will be avialable to test another failure (car, bike etc)
Any by my math 30 is 1/4 of 125 for the crank sensor not half.
It's certainly your choice but if its not the sensor and then you have to replace the ignition module (albeit less likely) you will be even further in the "hole"
If youare happy shotgun'ing the issue -- then go for it.

AH THERE WE GO, THE LOVE AND SUPPORT I MISSED SO MUCH ;)

HEY, THANK YOU FOR BRAKING IT DOWN FOR ME, IN A WAY THAT IM ABLE TO UNDERSTAND.

THANK YOU ALL VERY MUCH FOR YOUR HELP AND SUGGESTIONS.

I SURE DO APPRECIATE ALL THE INFORMATION AND HELP!

I WISH YOU ALL THE BEST, TRULY I DO. :)

I THINK IVE GOT IT FROM HERE. :oldthumbsup:
 

Jersey Big Mike

100K mile club
AH THERE WE GO, THE LOVE AND SUPPORT I MISSED SO MUCH ;)

HEY, THANK YOU FOR BRAKING IT DOWN FOR ME, IN A WAY THAT IM ABLE TO UNDERSTAND.

THANK YOU ALL VERY MUCH FOR YOUR HELP AND SUGGESTIONS.

I SURE DO APPRECIATE ALL THE INFORMATION AND HELP!

I WISH YOU ALL THE BEST, TRULY I DO. :)

I THINK IVE GOT IT FROM HERE. :oldthumbsup:
No problem my friend, here's the cheapest one I see on amazon.
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
Seems like an ignition control module, 99% sure its electrical but dont wanna throw the parts cannon at it if I can help it.
1. Wires: Say 100% no. Why? Because it stops and starts, runs. Just cuts out. So can't be wires, meaning. it does not disconnect and then reconnect when starting back up.

2. Black box: Say 50/50. Can something heat up, disconnect and restart when cooled? I'll say no because it should code or flat out fail finally.

3. Crank Sensor: Say 60/40 being 60 says heat buildup, stalls, cools, restarts. A CS kind of fits the profile.
 

Jersey Big Mike

100K mile club
2. Black box: Say 50/50. Can something heat up, disconnect and restart when cooled? I'll say no because it should code or flat out fail finally.
The black box can absolutely do this. My first bike had an ignition module in the nose cone and failed exactly this way. Ran for a while then died, you let the bike cool down and she'd fire right back up and run till it got to a certain temp (igntion module) and it would fail again.
This is actually a very common failure mode for electronics and it's why back in the 80 when I was doing production test that we had to test the board, then place it in a plexiglass box that warmed to 55C and retest it to ensure it passed when it was running hot.

Now in this case the C/S is the likely culprit that I'd chase first but the black box is possible and actually so are the wires.

A broken wire may still be making contact heat everything up and it expands -- it can pull the wire just far enough away from a contact that it will fail, Albeit this is less likely, but freeze spray allows you to cool off very specific spots to track down a heat releacted electronic issue.
 
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