Your ideas on ignition problem...

[chacha]

Had a pleasant surprise the other day riding home from work when the bike die -- clearly electrical since it cut off like a light.

Pulled over and cycled the switch. Got power to the ignition (original) module but got no signal from the nose cone sensor (no red LED light);

Got it home and replaced and checked the line from the cam sensor to the connector at the ignition module. No prob, fired it up and got a clean signal at the red led on the ignition module. and it started right up.

Shut it down and go out 20 minutes later to take it for a ride -- back to the same problem. Power at the ignition module and no signal from the cam sensor. I'm think I'm left with a freak electrical problem in either the cam sensor or the ignition module.

I've had to replace the cam sensor once already -- I think I'm just gonna replace the whole ignition system and be done with it. I would like to look for the problem though....


Any thoughts?

 

[bruce]

this is just a shot in the dark, but I just had my main trans. shaft break last week, well in removing battery covers and everything else I found several wires which would be behind battery cover, had bare wires showing that had been worn off , If I would not have seen it could cause electrical problems, may want to check, and maybe do the wiggle test like on car with cycle running go around moving and shaking wiring.

 

[chacha]

Bruce -- A good idea and I did do that. I pulled the line all the way from the nose cone sensor to the Thunderheart ignition module. I checked the lines visually and with a ohmmeter and all was good.

I'm wondering if there is a short on the signal line from the ignition module to the coil -- anyone know if that would shut down the ignition module?

I have a 30 amp fuse on the power to the ignition module and it's not tripping.

 

[jimizee028]

WHEN MY IGNITION MODULE WENT IT WAS VERY INTERMITTENT,SOMEtimes my bike ran fine,sometimes at 80 mph down rt95 it would stall,only to have me rehit the switch on the bar and it would immediatly purr back to life........of course that was in the beginning,towards the end it would work less.....

 

[DRBarnhart]

I'm wondering if there is a short on the signal line from the ignition module to the coil -- anyone know if that would shut down the ignition module?

A short on the "signal line" (or any other wire) would draw considerably more juice from the module and heat up the coil way more than normal operation so an internal "circuit breaker" to protect it would make sense...

Dennis

 

[stlmikie]

It's the EHC string that bitch up to a steak and burn er' to the ground! MUHAAHHHHH!

 

[chacha]

stlmikie wrote;

It's the EHC string that bitch up to a steak and burn er' to the ground! MUHAAHHHHH!

Not this time -- I ain't got one! Changed out to the WIRe+ and HD controls last year.

 

[stlmikie]

It's the wireplus string that bitch up to a steak and burn er' to the ground! MUHAHHHHHH!!

Just kiddn' man I said it before some other turd had the chance.

 

[chacha]

:roll:

 

[Moespeeds]

I'm reading this on my phone so I apologize if I missed anything. Seems pretty obvious that it's the cam sensor? Harley sells them, $30 I think and easy enough to change. One way to test it is to open the cover, start the bike, and run a hair dryer on the sensor. If the bike cuts out when it gets hot, there is your problem. BTW I was on my third when I switched out to a dyna 2000i.

 

[chacha]

Well, pulled the old system and I'm pretty convinced now it's the cam sensor -- not that I f'n care cause I replaced the whole damn ting with a Dyna 2000i in single fire. I should have done this a long time ago -- took her out for a test run tonight and it is like a whole different bike now. Trying out the #2 curve for now....

The pic below shows what looks to be a crack forming in the potting material to the left. Problem was too inconsistent to replicate, but the cam sensor doesn't look right so I'm gonna blame it!

Thanks for everyone's thoughts...