xXx Tuning

[Oscar Maldonado]

:angry: Shit won't tune:down: ! Any suggestions.

I'm getting it to idle pretty close the the motor sounds like it starts to gallop for a few seconds, then back to normal.

Black smoke, serious amounts of black smoke, back firing out of the ass (starting to sound like downtown bagdad at the house). I spoke to a local bike shop and he asked me to turn all the adjustments in and work them all out little by little. (WTF kind of advise is that ?):argue: :argue:

Any help from anyone is a lot of help. Thanks you all in advance.

 

[jwoolf]

Well, I'm sure you already know but, black smoke is gas. At least at some point, you're running rich.

Are you getting your backfiring and black smoke in the low speed circuit? ( below 2700rmps?)

Sounds like you really need to lean out the mixture. ( a lot )

What are you doing to tune it? Adjusting the idle mixture with the motor idling?

This may be stupid advice but, I'd get the bike idling and adjust the idle mixture screw to get the highest rpms ( lean condition ) and see where you are from there. If you've already done that then, it's time to start changing jets.

There are enough guys around here to know about where your jetting should be though, I'm sure.

 

[Gas Man]

Explain how/what you are "adjusting and tuning"

 

[Oscar Maldonado]

I haven' touched anything but the idle.

 

[Switchblades]

Get another set or 2 of plugs. Badly Fuel fowled plugs wont come back & will throw of your tuning.

 

[jwoolf]

dumb question and, I don't mean to insult, as I have only fucked with my "e" carb a little before changing it to that weber I have now.

You're tuning the idle mixture screw till you get the best rpms and then turning the idle speed screw back down, right?

I know first hand that fucking with a hi perf carb can be a little bit touchy. I had some issues with getting the weber going right. I'm still working on the tune on it, to be honest. It's pretty damned close now and will pull tree stumps but, I'm still a little rich in my idles too. I was having complecations from having a pump jet leaking and was leaving a really bad flat spot when switching over to the main jets at around 2700rpms.

I changed out all the brass and it really woke it up.

That's good advice on the plugs too. Get a new set if you've run it for much time at all on the ones you have in it now.

 

[Oscar Maldonado]

Will do switch.

 

[Oscar Maldonado]

dumb question and, I don't mean to insult, as I have only fucked with my "e" carb a little before changing it to that weber I have now.

You're tuning the idle mixture screw till you get the best rpms and then turning the idle speed screw back down, right?

Yes sir.

 

[Chopper Dave]

Oscar...ok...from what Gas Man told me about tuning....I'm sure he will chime in to help ya....
he said to screw in your accell. pump...til lightly seated......then adjust your air mixture.....turn out til starts to run rough...then turn in til it starts to die...then turn back half way between the 2(count your turns) then turn out your acc. pump 1 1/2 to 2 turns...blip the throttle and see if it takes...and if it doesn't...turn out a little more....so when you blip the throttle...you have instant response...

 

[Gas Man]

Here's the way to adjust it...

on the adjustments... will paste in a layout on how to adjust the carb

Also include S&S adjustments
S&S Shorty Carburetor Adjustments

S&S Carb Manual
http://www.sscycle.com/modules/instruction/uploads/51-1012.pdf

Exactly... if you can't adjust it with the accel pump then you need to go bigger on the int jet.

You can use the "remove your carb" thread to help get to it... look at post #1,2,7,8 to aid you in getting to your jets. No need to remove the carb... just have to drop the bowl.

To adjust the carb... with the bike warm...
(in=clockwise/out=counter)

if your idle is low... turn it up a bit...

now spin in the accel pump screw till it seats.

now spin in your fuel/air mix screw till the motor sounds like it wants to die

now spin it back out counting 1/4 turns. Do it slowly to give the motor/carb time to adjust. Do this till the motor sound like it wants to die on this end. Now you have counted those turns and you have say 2.5 turns. Spin it back in 1.25 turns. Or middle to almost dead on each end.

Now adjust your idle to 1,000 rpms on the tach.

Now spin it out 1.5 turns

Now with a few quick stabs at the throttle see if the rpms come up fast like you would think or if it kinda hesitates then takes off. If it does hesitate then spin the accel pump out another 1/4 turn and repeat till you get what sounds good.

If that don't fix the sneeze... you can spin out the accel pump a bit more... but anything over 2.5 turns means you need a larger intermiediate jet.

Now on the plugs... to test run the bike and see if the jets are good.

Check or replace plugs.

run the bike but keep the RPMS below 2500... then don't let it idle and kill the motor, check the plugs. That is to help check the int jet.

Then take it out and run it hard... keep the RPMs up and romp on it... then on a striaght patch of road with the RPMs up high (over 3k, or even higher) kill the motor with the OFF switch. Pull the plugs and check. that is to test the main jet.

The idea here is that your int jet runs from idle to about 2750. Then the main kicks in from there out. That's why we say your run mainly on your int jet. main is only for romps.

Use this GUIDE to read your spark plugs.

 

[jwoolf]

Cool!

I know you'll have it going in no time now.

 

[Oscar Maldonado]

The severe popping is coming at , I would say idle to 2500 rpm

 

[jwoolf]

that sounds like and accel pump adjustment to me but, I'm still learning myself. LOL

With the weber, you change the size of the pump jets but, it looks like on your carb you can adjust the "squirt" of fuel to ease the motor into the primary circuit.

 

[Gas Man]

Your accel pump is what gets you off idle. Then its int jet from there till about 2650rpm then all main jet.

 

[jwoolf]

I don't really know the S&S carbs but, doesn't the accel pump just squirt fuel when you twist the wick to keep the motor from starving when you open the throttle to allow more air?

I'm actually trying to learn something about the S&S carb here, it probably works different than my weber does etc.

So, you're saying that the accel pump doesn't transition the motor from int to primary, only from idle to int?

 

[Oscar Maldonado]

Thanks guys! I'll let you all know the outcome. Appreciate all of the imput.

 

[Gas Man]

No it dumps the fuel in as you said when you first open the throttle up to keep the motor from starving.

That's how you test the accel pump... by stabbing the throttle from idle...

on the adjustments... will paste in a layout on how to adjust the carb

Also include S&S adjustments
S&S Shorty Carburetor Adjustments

S&S Carb Manual
http://www.sscycle.com/modules/instruction/uploads/51-1012.pdf

Exactly... if you can't adjust it with the accel pump then you need to go bigger on the int jet.

You can use the "remove your carb" thread to help get to it... look at post #1,2,7,8 to aid you in getting to your jets. No need to remove the carb... just have to drop the bowl.

To adjust the carb... with the bike warm...
(in=clockwise/out=counter)

if your idle is low... turn it up a bit...

now spin in the accel pump screw till it seats.

now spin in your fuel/air mix screw till the motor sounds like it wants to die

now spin it back out counting 1/4 turns. Do it slowly to give the motor/carb time to adjust. Do this till the motor sound like it wants to die on this end. Now you have counted those turns and you have say 2.5 turns. Spin it back in 1.25 turns. Or middle to almost dead on each end.

Now adjust your idle to 1,000 rpms on the tach.

Now spin it out 1.5 turns

Now with a few quick stabs at the throttle see if the rpms come up fast like you would think or if it kinda hesitates then takes off. If it does hesitate then spin the accel pump out another 1/4 turn and repeat till you get what sounds good.

If that don't fix the sneeze... you can spin out the accel pump a bit more... but anything over 2.5 turns means you need a larger intermiediate jet.

Now on the plugs... to test run the bike and see if the jets are good.

Check or replace plugs.

run the bike but keep the RPMS below 2500... then don't let it idle and kill the motor, check the plugs. That is to help check the int jet.

Then take it out and run it hard... keep the RPMs up and romp on it... then on a striaght patch of road with the RPMs up high (over 3k, or even higher) kill the motor with the OFF switch. Pull the plugs and check. that is to test the main jet.

The idea here is that your int jet runs from idle to about 2750. Then the main kicks in from there out. That's why we say your run mainly on your int jet. main is only for romps.

Use this GUIDE to read your spark plugs.

[/QUOTE]

 

[jwoolf]

The plumbing on the weber is slightly different. There is no accel pump screw to turn on it.

You can change pump jets out and there is also an exhaust valve too. The only good news on that deal is that they're all REALLY easy to get to.

I just got my bike back from Stroker's and, I'll be messing with that probably this weekend.

Sul sent me a bunch of jets that he and Alhall had between them. I'm going to see what works and send the rest back to Al when I get it running as well as I can.

 

[chacha]

Oscar - what jets are you running for the intermediate and the main?

If the intermediate jet is correct (adjusted with the accel pump out of the circuit), then the mixture screw should be around 1 1/2 turns from seated. If your are at say 1 or 3 turns, you may have the wrong intermediate jet installed.

Do you have other jets on hand to try?

 

[lee]

Oscar - carefully read through the things Gas posted a couple of times - thats how I did mine and I didn't have too much trouble - do you have a jet kit? as jwoolf says black smoke is fuel - if you get this when you zip the throttle it could your accelerator pump is too far out - if its more than that your jets are probably too big