Wp installation help

[highmountaindog]

Im installing a wp kit on my 2006 mastiff. according to the instructions at step 16 i locate the white/black jumper wire and put the pin to position 8 of plug #1. Route the other end to position 5 of plug #3. the next step is where i need help.
cut red wire 2005+ ehc position N/A coil power
cut red wire 2005+ ehc position A-19 ignition module power.
My question is am I suppose to ring out the coil power wire and hook it up to my jumper wire with A-19 or do i not worrie about it? I know the coil needs power. I just want to make sure i do this right the first time.

 

[hayseed]

not sure because i dont have a wire pro but the coil and ignition need to be on switched power,, they originally were powered by a single feed from EHC so i would guess you can tie them together and bring a single power lead,, or if its cleanner/simpler have them both go back to the WP unit

 

[highmountaindog]

Just got off the phone with wires plus. They cannot answer my above question because the tech is out for several weeks. But I can go to there website type in my question on there trouble section and wait for a reply. Are you F---ing kidding me. I spent almost 600$ and waited over five weeks for this product and now I have to wait for a tech question to be answered and who knows when that will be. Wires plus you can kiss my a$$.

If anyone is reading this thread and may have an answer I would appreciate your thoughts. Someone was nice enough to give me there thoughts but I'm looking for a more detailed answer. Thanks.
And I wouldn't recommend purchasing anything from wires plus. Just my 2 cents.

 

[Olde Man]

My 2006 K9 coil is fed from the ignition module. If you supply power on A19 the coil will still be connected as before. Connect only the A19 red. A word of caution on your WP install. Mount the ignition switch with RTV. If you hard mount it with the locknut the contacts will bounce under different loads and it was miserable trying to figure this one out. My tach kept resetting itself and would do stupid things because the power to it was being inturrupted. It took me 9 months to figure this out. I ended up modifing (lightening) the switch and the problem was fixed after buying two switches and a tach board.

 

[DRBarnhart]

Im installing a wp kit on my 2006 mastiff. according to the instructions at step 16 i locate the white/black jumper wire and put the pin to position 8 of plug #1. Route the other end to position 5 of plug #3. the next step is where i need help.
cut red wire 2005+ ehc position N/A coil power
cut red wire 2005+ ehc position A-19 ignition module power.
My question is am I suppose to ring out the coil power wire and hook it up to my jumper wire with A-19 or do i not worrie about it? I know the coil needs power. I just want to make sure i do this right the first time.

You need to end up with a wire that goes from pin 8, plug 1 to pin 5, plug 3 then connects to the wire going to your ignition module (the wire that was on pin A-19 of the EHC). You're coil should be getting power from the ignition module assuming it's stock.

Does that help?

Dennis

 

[DRBarnhart]

... coil is fed from the ignition module. If you supply power on A19 the coil will still be connected as before.

Guess I could have just agreed with this post, eh? :bang:



Dennis

 

[highmountaindog]

Thanks everyone for helping me out. Now I can finally continue the install. Haven't got to ride since may.

 

[mastiffdave]

My 2006 K9 coil is fed from the ignition module. If you supply power on A19 the coil will still be connected as before. Connect only the A19 red. A word of caution on your WP install. Mount the ignition switch with RTV. If you hard mount it with the locknut the contacts will bounce under different loads and it was miserable trying to figure this one out. My tach kept resetting itself and would do stupid things because the power to it was being inturrupted. It took me 9 months to figure this out. I ended up modifing (lightening) the switch and the problem was fixed after buying two switches and a tach board.

Yep the switch and the mount is a POS. Makes me mad every time I turn the key thinking of the run around I got with two different sets of instuctions. Will fix it correctly this winter.

 

[pknowles]

Yep the switch and the mount is a POS. Makes me mad every time I turn the key thinking of the run around I got with two different sets of instuctions. Will fix it correctly this winter.

Do you mind sharing your plan of action. Mine is still running great, but always looking for a better rat trap.

 

[Jwooky]

I kept the stock key switch and just wired it to the control side of a relay.

What a joke, that this is necessary, it should come this way. The solution to change to a high current key switch is rediculas.

 

[mastiffdave]

Do you mind sharing your plan of action. Mine is still running great, but always looking for a better rat trap.

I have a few plans on the back of my brain that im working on , but heck I would be honored to have a nice custom switch install like yours. I still think you should post a link to what you did as its the cleanest I have seen.

RTV and set screws are just cheap and a reminder of the BS of WP.

 

[highmountaindog]

Just finished my install. I will try and fire it up in the morning. I'm praying everything works as planned. I took my time on the install.
I would like to thank everyone for there help and suggestions. couldn't of done it without the support of everyone. thanks again.

 

[mastiffdave]

ggod deal, keep us posted.

 

[mml03102]

how did it workout for you?

 

[highmountaindog]

Just finished with everything. Some how some way everything worked. To be honest I was very intimidated with trying this install. Everything worked perfect first time.
Finally I can ride. Haven't been out sense may. Thanks again everyone for all the help. I wouldn't of been able to do it without everyone.

 

[Olde Man]

I would have used my big dog key switch and a relay except I gave it away on the forum because I did not think I needed it anymore. The intermittent electrical problems were hard to diagnose because any time I did anything like rejet or tighten the motor mount it would change how the tach acted. Anyway my fix was to disassemble the switch by bending the three staked areas outward. Easy. I then purchased three ball bearings 3mm or .125" or 1/8" from my local hardware. I placed these balls under the three springs that are supposed to keep the contacts seated. More pressure on the contact surface. I also drilled a hole in the three verticle sides of the copper contact plate to lighten it up without weakening it. I think the holes were about 1/8" or 3/16". I did debur them. I do believe that the lightening holes were overkill and not needed. I then installed the switch with my locknut and a big glob of RTV. I can for the first time actaully hit my rev limiter since my WP install. Installing a switch on the motor mount is probably not a very good choice of location by BDM. My only bitch was the availability of good information on the subject when I think people knew of the problem. I lost my photo on the install. Grrrrrrr. It is pretty simple when you do it.