Woods cam

[aspen874]

I have an 07 mastiff with the 117 motor basically stock except for V&H big radius pipes and Thunderheart ignition. I recently had a Woods cam W8 590 installed along with a Triple XXX carb.

The issue is now the vibration in the bike is considerably worse. Is this normal or am I missing something and is there anything I can do short of removing the cam.

Any advice would be appreciated
Thanks Aspen

 

[MARV]

wonder if the cam end play was checked and within specs?

kind of hard to do with the solid cam covers but.......

 

[Little-Boo]

I have an 07 mastiff with the 117 motor basically stock except for V&H big radius pipes and Thunderheart ignition. I recently had a Woods cam W8 590 installed along with a Triple XXX carb.

The issue is now the vibration in the bike is considerably worse. Is this normal or am I missing something and is there anything I can do short of removing the cam.

Any advice would be appreciated
Thanks Aspen

I would say that you need to really work on you Carb setting. It is not running right. I can tell you that because when I first changed my engine to what it is now I had lots of vibration. (Head Ported decked 0.030 w/bigger intake and Exhaust Valves, Woods 650 Cam, and more) It was so bad I lost my Top Engine Motor Mount Bolt. The motor sounded bad ass, great throttle response , but the bottom line was that is was missing under load like at 2500 RPM's as in being to fat (rich). I looked at my plugs and they were black and only had about 35 miles on them. I replaced my plugs and leaned out the Carb (PSI back then) and it worked. I had other problems because I was running Velocity Stacks so I had a hard time tuning my ride. I have since gone to a different Carb and I am happy with the way it runs.

Check your plugs and also what # jets and air cleaner are you running. Do you have baffles in your V&H are they 2-2 or 2-1. The Thunder Heart Ignition is it the Adjustable one and what degree timing are you running. Also who installed the cam and who adjusted your valves, was it done right ???? Let us know

Carlos

 

[Raywood]

Didn't I already see this thread somewhere else? If you pulled your coil cover then check your motormounts for tightness. Replace them with longer bolts as many of us have already done.

 

[aspen874]

Thanks Carlos for your reply, I talked to Bob Woods today. He said that he doesn't believe the cam install caused the problem, he suggested i look at the exhaust.
I have V&H big radius 2in2 with Big City Thunder baffles, they were on the bike prior along with a D&M spike. I haven't ever been able to totally solve the issues with the spike, so I am going to change to the S&S dual runner. I believe that will solve at least one issue.

I was running 33/78 with the G-carb, now 31/76 with the Tripe xxx, I tend to agree with you it is either the ignition, jetting, air intake or a combination of all three.

I'll have the dual runner installed and rejet, we will see what that does. if anyone has any idea what the timing should be please let me know.

Thanks again
Aspen

 

[aspen874]

Raywood, This is a new thread, all the mounts were checked at install, however i didn't know about longer bolts

Aspen

 

[MARV]

if anyone has any idea what the timing should be please let me know.

Thanks again
Aspen

if you up'd your compression then 28 degrees at full advance

 

[aspen874]

I did not change the compression, should the timing change with just the cam install?

 

[Little-Boo]

I did not change the compression, should the timing change with just the cam install?

I did not change the compression, should the timing change with just the cam install?

Stock compression will require 30-32 degrees of total advance. I set mine at 4, You will need to possibly go down to 3 if you are at a higher elevation.

Setting 2 is 28 degrees
Setting 3 is 30 degrees
Setting 4 is 32 degrees
Setting 5 is 34 degrees
Setting 6 is 36 degrees

The above came from Jake I copies that from the How to Section

I also have mine set at position # 4. I did increase the compression on my Bike but because of the summer heat 95 to 100 degree weather I don't think I need to advance my timing any higher. If I was in a racing situation I would take a chance and go to 6 with some good racing 108+ unleaded fuel. But I don't race anymore, I need two more wheels to race :lol:

In your case I would go for position 2 or 3 see which one works better for you. To much timing will cause detonation (pinging)

As for jetting I would go to 32/78. Do a test run and see how it operates at about 2200 to 2500, if it is steady not jerky with the 32 then your okay. Do a roll from about 50mph to 70mph in 4th or 5th gear see if it picks up or just lays down. If it lays down with the 78 drop down to 76. The 32 should be good, or you may have to go to 31, but not 33.

You were running 33/78 that is too fat or the 33 is to rich IMO. But that is just me

You are now running 31/76 that might be Okay with the S & S Tunned Single Bore Dual Runner, but I think you may need the 32. I run the same intake, Street Walker RGGees 2-1 and I am flying with 32/78. I was running 33/78 the way it came to me from XXX. That was too rich, I have changed it little by little until I got it to where it runs good.

Hope that helps

Carlos

 

[aspen874]

Thanks Carlos, I appreciate the info, will try to make changes this week and report back

Aspen

 

[V]

I have the W8 as well bike ran smooth with stock carb added the XXX G carb and I have more vibration exspecily at the 2500 RPM range. Just need to do some tuning.

 

[Little-Boo]

I have the W8 as well bike ran smooth with stock carb added the XXX G carb and I have more vibration exspecily at the 2500 RPM range. Just need to do some tuning.

Try some of the stuff I mentioned above. It sounds like you are running to rich maybe drop your intermidiate down on size. or your Air/Fuel is not set right

Carlos