Wierdest electrical problem EVER!

olddog58

Member
I continue trying to trace a problem with my 2008 K9 EFI. But since earlier posts, I have been able to dig deeper and uncover more symptoms (no solutions, just more symptoms!).

Initial discovery- Started the bike, speedo didn't work (low voltage, happens once in a while). Shut down the bike, started again, sill low voltage, shut down the bike, went for my third start and it wouldn't turn over. "Engine" light on speedo stays lit, start button does nothing. no click, no nothing.
-turn key on, lights come on, hit "run" button, electrical fuel pump and everything purrs into action. But the "Engine" light stays on and no life in the start button.
- have had battery tested- fine. Put new relay in one of the EHC bundles since it looked a little corroded. No affect.
- kept trouble shooting with my manual. EHC lights- key on, power goes yellow (good), Controller on goes flashing green (good). Hit start button and "Air Ride Mode" fault light goes red (bad).
- next step in touble shooting is to cycle high beam/low beam button, and upon cycling I get "Air Relief Valve" and "Air Compressor" fault lights to cycle with the high/low switch (also referenced in the manuals trouble shooting guide).
Now the WIERD Part- I don't have air suspension. So I started playing with the light because the air ride circuit and the headlight circuit are both fed from Bus1 in the EHC (per the wire diagram).
Turn key on- headlight on- low beam- toggle swith between high and low, and headlight responds appropriately (high beam on, low beam on). Hit the Start Button, and low beam works, but High Beam doesn't work. Headlight turns off with high beam on. Hit "stop" button, and headlight function returns to normal.
Key on- run/stop button being in run or stop has no negative effects. No EHC fault lights. But hitting "start" button begins the light show.

So now you smart guys... tell me what's wrong..
 

Slick-Dog

Active Member
All most sound like a ground wire...vibration=no lights....no vibration=lights.... just saying because mine did the same thing (head light and speedo).... I started with the easy stuff first...found it right off the bat>>
 

Jersey Big Mike

100K mile club
That sounds as flaky as my EHC was when it went bad -- What's the temperature like out there right now -- My EHC when it failed would do strange things when it was COLD. I actually had one night last year (story post on here somewhere) where I had to use 1/2 gallon of hot water to warm up the EHC so the bike would start. (Hair dryer works at home, just don't get carried away and burn anything)

Mike
 

erldawg

Guru
I'm surprised nobody has jumped on this one.

I have an 2008 K9 EFI w/ 16500 miles and have had no problems at all other than battery not adequate. Just routine maintenance.

1) Keep your battery on a tender. The bikes will draw on the battery even with the bike off. If the battery voltage drops below 12.8 weird crap will happen and yes the speedo will not initialize. It's three years old I would change the battery and get one with a minimum of 310 cca's. There are several thread on this and some have used a Harley Battery. Please note I changed my battery at the begining of this year and have no issues with speedo.

2) Check all your ground connections to verify they are tight.

3) Air ride is seperate connections to EHC. I went through the manual and couldn't find anything either so I don't think you have this however I'd verify that. I went out and looked at my speedo there is no light for Air Ride. There is a Engine fault light and low fuel light (EFI only)if the engine fault light is on then there may be DTC failures.

4) You could download the S&S Pro Tune software install it. (hopefully you have a laptop) Connect to your ECM with a mini USB cable and check for DTC codes.
 
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Nomad2day

Longhair Redneck Geek
I continue trying to trace a problem with my 2008 K9 EFI. But since earlier posts, I have been able to dig deeper and uncover more symptoms (no solutions, just more symptoms!).

Initial discovery- Started the bike, speedo didn't work (low voltage, happens once in a while). Shut down the bike, started again, sill low voltage, shut down the bike, went for my third start and it wouldn't turn over. "Engine" light on speedo stays lit, start button does nothing. no click, no nothing.
-turn key on, lights come on, hit "run" button, electrical fuel pump and everything purrs into action. But the "Engine" light stays on and no life in the start button.
- have had battery tested- fine. Put new relay in one of the EHC bundles since it looked a little corroded. No affect.
- kept trouble shooting with my manual. EHC lights- key on, power goes yellow (good), Controller on goes flashing green (good). Hit start button and "Air Ride Mode" fault light goes red (bad).
- next step in touble shooting is to cycle high beam/low beam button, and upon cycling I get "Air Relief Valve" and "Air Compressor" fault lights to cycle with the high/low switch (also referenced in the manuals trouble shooting guide).
Now the WIERD Part- I don't have air suspension. So I started playing with the light because the air ride circuit and the headlight circuit are both fed from Bus1 in the EHC (per the wire diagram).
Turn key on- headlight on- low beam- toggle swith between high and low, and headlight responds appropriately (high beam on, low beam on). Hit the Start Button, and low beam works, but High Beam doesn't work. Headlight turns off with high beam on. Hit "stop" button, and headlight function returns to normal.
Key on- run/stop button being in run or stop has no negative effects. No EHC fault lights. But hitting "start" button begins the light show.

So now you smart guys... tell me what's wrong..
Not going to jump into this at the moment but do you have a copy of this troubleshooting chart to help you with your checks? I am attaching it to your thread.
Neil
 

Attachments

DRBarnhart

Insert title here...
I'm surprised nobody has jumped on this one.
How's this for jumping in with both feet? :D
I continue trying to trace a problem with my 2008 K9 EFI. But since earlier posts, I have been able to dig deeper and uncover more symptoms (no solutions, just more symptoms!).
It would make more sense to everyone (including yourself) to keep your issues/troubleshooting in one post... but that's just my opinion.
Initial discovery- Started the bike, speedo didn't work (low voltage, happens once in a while). Shut down the bike, started again, sill low voltage, shut down the bike, went for my third start and it wouldn't turn over.
I know BDB1 already asked this but I couldn't find your answer... what are you talking about when you say "low voltage"?
"Engine" light on speedo stays lit, start button does nothing. no click, no nothing.
-turn key on, lights come on, hit "run" button, electrical fuel pump and everything purrs into action. But the "Engine" light stays on and no life in the start button.
If the "ENGINE" light on the speedo stays ON the ECU is sensing a fault so it makes sense that the bike won't start.
- have had battery tested- fine.
Tested how?
Put new relay in one of the EHC bundles since it looked a little corroded. No affect.
What relay?
- kept trouble shooting with my manual.
So I know, what manual? And where are you looking in the manual?
EHC lights- key on, power goes yellow (good),
"POWER" or "POWER UP"?
Controller on goes flashing green (good).
OK...
Hit start button and "Air Ride Mode" fault light goes red (bad).
That would indicate an open/short in the circuit so whether it's good or bad would depend on if you have air ride or not.
- next step in touble shooting is to cycle high beam/low beam button, and upon cycling I get "Air Relief Valve" and "Air Compressor" fault lights to cycle with the high/low switch (also referenced in the manuals trouble shooting guide).
Is this according to the troubleshooting sheet, "AIR RIDE COMPRESSOR/RELIEF VALVE INOPERATIVE"? If so, that sheet doesn't apply to you if the following two things are true: you don't have air ride and you haven't hit the "RUN" button. If this is the case, by only hitting the "START" button you've activated the air ride suspension with nothing plugged in to those EHC pins. That would be seen by the EHC as "open" circuit and turn on the LED. Follow me?
Now the WIERD Part- I don't have air suspension.
Not WEIRD at all...sorry to disappoint.
So I started playing with the light because the air ride circuit and the headlight circuit are both fed from Bus1 in the EHC (per the wire diagram).
But the outputs from the EHC to each aren't the same so coming from the same bus has nothing to do with your problem.
Turn key on- headlight on- low beam- toggle swith between high and low, and headlight responds appropriately (high beam on, low beam on). Hit the Start Button, and low beam works, but High Beam doesn't work. Headlight turns off with high beam on. Hit "stop" button, and headlight function returns to normal.
Again, it's because you've turned on the air ride system and in that mode the high/low beam buttons act different.
Key on- run/stop button being in run or stop has no negative effects. No EHC fault lights. But hitting "start" button begins the light show.
So this all brings us back to square one... You turn on the key, hit the "RUN" button, your "ENGINE" light stays on after several seconds, and bike won't start. At this point I need to know if I'm right or wrong to troubleshoot any further... :hi:

Dennis
 
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Throttle

Member
I have a 2007 Buldog EFI .. I would change the battery first, this is how my bike acts when the battery is a low charge and cold(less than 40 degree's). Change the battery and restart, I suspect everything will go away. I have 20,000 miles .. trouble free
 

BigDogBro1

Made in the USA
2007 Bulldog EFI

I had loose wire crimps on the smaller wires connected to the battery terminals. Caused alot of erratic engine shutdown problems and weird stuff on the EHC LED's. Re-crimped those terminations and all has been good, 12k miles. These wires feed voltage to the EHC and the ECM. If there is an interuption in power the bike will shut down like turning off the key.

Batteries have alot to do with EHC weird shit happening. 12.8 volts minimum after off the charger 1hr+ in order for the EHC to function properly. I think...No less than 10.0v? under cranking load.
 
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DRBarnhart

Insert title here...
From the other thread...
The Engine Check Light stays ON because something during the start-up process failed a check...possibly your battery voltage level.
I think you were on the right track here but then the topic got derailed with the air ride/air compressor, stopping/starting thread stuff. We still need to know how the battery was tested before jumping in to the ECU and all its sensors... :)

Dennis
 

erldawg

Guru
Keep in mind there is a power up procedure on EFI bikes before starting after a battery has been disconnected and reinstalled. Look under your seat for the sequence.

I think it's turn the key on - hit run - then turn the key off for at least 15 seconds to reset the sensors.

Ohh and nice jump Dennis - both legs up to the knee's I'd say great job hmmm definitely need to give some rep...:cheers::2thumbs:
 

olddog58

Member
I tried everything I could. Dropped the bike off at the local repair shop.
The "good" news in all this is that BDM is just coming out with an EHC replacement, plug and play, based on the wires plus system... but... plug and play! No "re-wiring" to install. It looks like I'll be one of the first to get it (not good- but what the hell) BDM says they have had good results on their bikes that have been running their kit.
I'll let you know what I find...
 

DRBarnhart

Insert title here...
I still think your problem is somewhere in the FI system, not the EHC. No matter, please make sure to let us know what they find Ken! :up:

Good luck!! :cheers:

Dennis
 

Fibersnake

Banjo Playing PsychoBilly
I tried everything I could. Dropped the bike off at the local repair shop.
The "good" news in all this is that BDM is just coming out with an EHC replacement, plug and play, based on the wires plus system... but... plug and play! No "re-wiring" to install. It looks like I'll be one of the first to get it (not good- but what the hell) BDM says they have had good results on their bikes that have been running their kit.
I'll let you know what I find...
You sure that it is plug and play and based on Wire Plus system. All of their other PDM are plug and plug, but you take out the old wiring harness and install their new wiring harness, PDM and HCI. Also their other PDM do not appear to be based on Wire Plus at all, from the best I can tell, two different animals.

You may want to double check and make sure that it is not like the other PDM where you have to change out the wiring harness and install new one that comes with the kit. Also unless they changed something the PDM has relays and fuses and I do not see how they are based on a WP at all.

That said if the new kit is like the other PDM, yes you do unplug everything, remove the old harness and install a new one and plug it all back together. I know myself I was able to save all of the old ECH and harness and if I had to I go back and reinstall.

Good luck
 
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