Why is the little air breather at the rear dripping oil?

[Matt300ZXT]

Holy cow, just backed it up in the garage to fire it up for a few and there's a decent puddle on the floor after idling just a couple minutes. I know there's a leak up near the bottom of the engine or around where the engine meets the primary but I can see oil dripping out of the little air breather back along the frame near the rear tire. Where the hell is that oil coming from and why would it be dripping so noticeably?

 

[DeadXL]

How long has it been since you've fired her up?

What you're seeing is likely just the crankcase ventilation breather, they're usually routed to the air cleaner but it may have been relocated on your bike. Usually any oil accumulation will drain back due to gravity from being up high on the air cleaner, but in your case the small residuals sit inside the tube until crankcase pressure blows it out. It should clear up after a good ride, nothing to worry about.

 

[Matt300ZXT]

It's been sitting here in my garage maybe a little over 2 months and I'll fire it up maybe once a month or so (just finished my motorcycle course today) for the hell of it. The previous owner didnt ride it much either. Its an 02 with only like 5400 miles. I'm a bit scared to take it out, not because of the slight leak up near the engine, but because this was a sizeable puddle it dripped in just a couple minutes. It appears to have a braided line that kinda ts off but I was tired and didn't trace where the lines went. I guess I could check the oil levels, top them off if I need to and drive it across the highway to WalMart to practice and check the levels again and see if it's still wanting to dump oil out of it. That way I'm not too far from home in case I need something.

 

[Mr. Wright]

Yeah, sounds like it just sumped a little. Your oil is gravity fed into the engine, then the oil pump pumps it back to the tank. If there's too much oil in the engine it'll push it out through the breather. That's why I fire mine up at least once a month throughout the winter. Clean it off a little break clean keep an eye on it

 

[Matt300ZXT]

Ah ok. Through some clues I found some info on Google on old posts here and someone asking on a Harley forum. That helps settles my nerves some. As soon as I can bring myself to buy this motorcycle lift I'll get it up off the ground and change all my fluids. Hopefully my other leak I knew about will be cured if I get the right oil level in the bike. I'm crossing my fingers here lol

 

[DynoDave]

Yeah, it's 'wet sumping'. My '02 would do that if it sat for more than two weeks. Oil for the engine is held in your oil bag (not the crankcase like your car). There's a check ball in the oil pump. After sitting for weeks oil will seep past the check ball, go into the crankcase, and blow out the breather line upon starting.
The factory ran the breather hose to the back of the air cleaner. Most guys route the hose under the bike in case it wet sumps.
If it becomes a problem the check ball is worn, needs to be replaced, and the seat honed.
Check for oil underneath your bike when you start it. Oil on the back tire can make for some excitement you don't want!
Ask me how I know!

 

[Matt300ZXT]

Is there a guide somewhere on checking or replacing the check ball? I couldn't find anything through Google searching last night. I guess I should take this little air filter off and let it drain out and spray it with some brake cleaner or something to clean it out. Thanks for the help guys, you helped settle my nerves

 

[Rottweiler]

I usually put a tuna fish can under the hose for the first start of the year. Yes it can look like alot of oil. No big deal! I let mine warm up then change the oil.

 

[HMAN]

Not sure this will be the size you would need but they are out there.

S&S Cycle Stainless Steel .375 in. Oil Pump Check Valve Ball - 50-8091 Harley-Davidson Motorcycle - Dennis Kirk

Find the S&S Cycle Stainless Steel .375 in. Oil Pump Check Valve Ball - 50-8091 at Dennis Kirk. Shop our complete selection of Harley-Davidson Motorcycle parts and accessories including the S&S Cycle Stainless Steel .375 in. Oil Pump Check Valve Ball - 50-8091.

www.denniskirk.com

 

[bdm7250]

I've said it before that I have no issues dropping the bottom end plug to drain excess oil. Never understood the "concern" with pulling the bottom end plug, it's very routine and there is much less mess to clean up. Just my tho..

 

[Matt300ZXT]

I've said it before that I have no issues dropping the bottom end plug to drain excess oil. Never understood the "concern" with pulling the bottom end plug, it's very routine and there is much less mess to clean up. Just my tho..

That is where I saw a couple drips before I noticed this...probably 3 weeks ago or so. I emailed S&S to see if there's an o ring for that plug or if I just need to put some Teflon tape on it or something and their answer wasn't really helpful.

After cleaning the bottom of the bike with some brake cleaner to get sticky oil residue off the frame and such, it seems there is also a lil leak right behind/next to that plug...which makes me think maybe where the primary assembly attaches to the motor, maybe a seal is worn or something. It's hard to tell when you don't have a lift yet and there's like a whopping 4" of ground clearance lol

 

[heybaylor]

that plug on the bottom of the crankcase is a pipe plug (tapered), if over-tightened it can crack the case,
be careful when installing it .
hope this helps

 

[bdm7250]

That is where I saw a couple drips before I noticed this...probably 3 weeks ago or so. I emailed S&S to see if there's an o ring for that plug or if I just need to put some Teflon tape on it or something and their answer wasn't really helpful.

After cleaning the bottom of the bike with some brake cleaner to get sticky oil residue off the frame and such, it seems there is also a lil leak right behind/next to that plug...which makes me think maybe where the primary assembly attaches to the motor, maybe a seal is worn or something. It's hard to tell when you don't have a lift yet and there's like a whopping 4" of ground clearance lol

Most likely your O-ring, I have good quality o-ring sets which I picked up from Grainger. An 85 cent o-ring can save frustration of oil on the floor.

 

[DynoDave]

Is there a guide somewhere on checking or replacing the check ball? I couldn't find anything through Google searching last night. I guess I should take this little air filter off and let it drain out and spray it with some brake cleaner or something to clean it out. Thanks for the help guys, you helped settle my nerves

 

[Matt300ZXT]

I

View attachment 100252
View attachment 100253

Is it literally as easy as just popping that "bolt" out, pulling the spring and putting a new ball in just in case (if I'm reading the parts diagram right)? That seems like it'd be foolish to NOT do it even if it's not 100% of the issue.

 

[DynoDave]

I

Is it literally as easy as just popping that "bolt" out, pulling the spring and putting a new ball in just in case (if I'm reading the parts diagram right)? That seems like it'd be foolish to NOT do it even if it's not 100% of the issue.

Sounds easy but.................................
Getting that bolt out can be tough.
Honing the ball seat should be done also. To do so some guys use an old Harley push rod with polishing compound - spinning push rod with hands. This should be done with oil pump off and disassembled so it can be cleaned. Don't want polishing compound in the engine.

 

[Matt300ZXT]

If it's like the tappet filter screen bolt, or whatever that's called, and people recommend a special socket tool or something to remove it (rather than butchering it with a screwdriver) and that'd work om this without marring the bolt I'd give it a shot, at least just a new ball. If that doesn't help much, I guess I'll have to deal with occasional drips as I am NOT comfortable with tearing so much apart to get the oil pump off. That sounds way beyond my scope at this point.

 

[DynoDave]

If it's like the tappet filter screen bolt, or whatever that's called, and people recommend a special socket tool or something to remove it (rather than butchering it with a screwdriver) and that'd work om this without marring the bolt I'd give it a shot, at least just a new ball. If that doesn't help much, I guess I'll have to deal with occasional drips as I am NOT comfortable with tearing so much apart to get the oil pump off. That sounds way beyond my scope at this point.

Amazon.com

 

[DynoDave]

If you are interested I have the tool and replacement socket head bolts.
Will sell both for $10 including shipping.

 

[Matt300ZXT]

If you are interested I have the tool and replacement socket head bolts.
Will sell both for $10 including shipping.
View attachment 100264

Noice! I was gonna check out what you had in that PM you sent me but definitely interested in this. While I'm doing some maintenance I might as well throw some extra goodies in there. I'll send you a other pm later after I get home and finish up my class.