i am new to this site, but have been riding a bigdog for a few years, deprived yes? anyhow i am needing any info on why my ignition switch is giving me trouble. this is the 3rsd switch i have put on the bike, and it is doing the same thinhg. the first time i had trouble, i took it to the shop, and the tech trouble shot quite a few areas, the carb, the cam seal, fuel delivery, and found that the ignition switch was the problem. i replaced it, and it ran like an ape. wow. now every time it starts acting up, (cutting out when i throttle it hard), i can bypass the ignition switch, and she runs great, but this new switch doesn't help. any ideas?
Why ignition switch problems????
- Thread starter bdhusky00
- Start date
i am new to this site, but have been riding a bigdog for a few years, deprived yes? anyhow i am needing any info on why my ignition switch is giving me trouble. this is the 3rsd switch i have put on the bike, and it is doing the same thinhg. the first time i had trouble, i took it to the shop, and the tech trouble shot quite a few areas, the carb, the cam seal, fuel delivery, and found that the ignition switch was the problem. i replaced it, and it ran like an ape. wow. now every time it starts acting up, (cutting out when i throttle it hard), i can bypass the ignition switch, and she runs great, but this new switch doesn't help. any ideas?vibration causing shorting?????? break in contact?????
BigDogBro1
Made in the USA
So you're saying when you bypass this new switch it still cuts out?
Go further upstream through the wire harness step by step checking each connection.
Go further upstream through the wire harness step by step checking each connection.
BigDogBro1
Made in the USA
I don't know if the 2000 Husky is a standard electrical system that carries all running voltage/current throught the switch or does the bike run a EHC system?
Could be a cheap or wrong switch for the job. The switch is breaking contact and causing a power interruption to the ignition.
Is it a standard type HD Sportster switch?
Could this switch fit?
Its design is such that it could be rotated so the offset of the body could be positioned to fit if the 1.6" overall diameter works.
It seems well suited for a MC. It would give an extra unused switch position but it's a good quality part.
http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=6110042
Data Sheet..
http://www.alliedelec.com/Images/Products/Datasheets/BM/HOBBS_INC/611-0041.PDF
Hope this helps...
Could be a cheap or wrong switch for the job. The switch is breaking contact and causing a power interruption to the ignition.
Is it a standard type HD Sportster switch?
Could this switch fit?
Its design is such that it could be rotated so the offset of the body could be positioned to fit if the 1.6" overall diameter works.
It seems well suited for a MC. It would give an extra unused switch position but it's a good quality part.
http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=6110042
Data Sheet..
http://www.alliedelec.com/Images/Products/Datasheets/BM/HOBBS_INC/611-0041.PDF
Hope this helps...
Last edited:
please forgive my ignorance, but i am not sure if it runs an ehc system. how do i tell? it does have the thunderheart electronis modual under the gas tank. i am not sure if the switch is the same as the hd sporty switch, i dont think so, cause i have a 99 sportster sport, and the keys are not the same. thanks for the info on the other switch, looks a little big to fit behind the coil bracket. the new switch ihas the same key as the switch that was on the bike when i bought it.
Oldhvymetal
Member
Can you post a pic for us to have a look? If it's an OEM original switch, it's probably the same as on my 2000 V-sport, I'll let you know.
The Thunderheart is your electronic harness controller (EHC), for future reference.
You wouldn't happen to have an anvil hanging on your key chain, would you? ...just kiddin'.
I think woodbutcher was onto something there. Let's see a pic of what you got, maybe it'll spark a brain cell or two.
The Thunderheart is your electronic harness controller (EHC), for future reference.
You wouldn't happen to have an anvil hanging on your key chain, would you? ...just kiddin'.
I think woodbutcher was onto something there. Let's see a pic of what you got, maybe it'll spark a brain cell or two.
Oldhvymetal
Member
OK so I looked up the J&P pn and with all honesty, and I'm not holding one in my hand or anything, but it doesn't look so rugged. To make a side point- this is half the reason for the electrical issues on these types of bikes. The bigger engines produce more vibration and shake the heck out of everything. It's just part of the game. An old friend here used to compare it to '70's muscle cars, you had to wrench on 'em because high performance stuff causes more stress and vibration everywhere. Replacing stuff that breaks a lot with stronger stuff becomes common sense. We all get different experiences because we all ride different too.
I'm thinking (maybe, now) the mechanic replaced the first switch with an aftermarket one, and the other two you replaced were as well?
If so I'd agree with the gents recommending tougher switches. There's a guy on e-bay selling an HD Sportster 2 position one here:
Harley Davidson Sportster Big Twin Ignition Switch - eBay (item 390253587452 end time Mar-17-11 10:47:28 PDT)
...and Amazon dot crap has the same thing a little cheaper here:
[ame=http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000WK9SHY/ref=asc_df_B000WK9SHY1428594/?tag=globa0a-20&creative=394997&creativeASIN=B000WK9SHY&linkCode=asn]Amazon.com: Biker's Choice UNIVERSAL IGNITION SWITCH 73086: Automotive[/ame]
Shipping charges could make the difference, it's not a high dollar or heavy item. If you put the J&P one on your bike then sometime down the road it sounds like it might not be a bad idea to keep a spare around anyway- if you do have to grind the HD one then the J&P switch could buy you a little time to do the grinding work a bit more carefully.
My switch is still original from '00 but I think it's because early on I learned the "shave the key" trick. Let us know how it works out, or if this is making any sense.
All respect it wouldn't be a bad idea to figure out how to post pics, since they can help others figure stuff out better for you, and you to help others out too should you stick around. Plus it might help to post a couple in your intro.
Peace, Respect,
OHM
I'm thinking (maybe, now) the mechanic replaced the first switch with an aftermarket one, and the other two you replaced were as well?
If so I'd agree with the gents recommending tougher switches. There's a guy on e-bay selling an HD Sportster 2 position one here:
Harley Davidson Sportster Big Twin Ignition Switch - eBay (item 390253587452 end time Mar-17-11 10:47:28 PDT)
...and Amazon dot crap has the same thing a little cheaper here:
[ame=http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000WK9SHY/ref=asc_df_B000WK9SHY1428594/?tag=globa0a-20&creative=394997&creativeASIN=B000WK9SHY&linkCode=asn]Amazon.com: Biker's Choice UNIVERSAL IGNITION SWITCH 73086: Automotive[/ame]
Shipping charges could make the difference, it's not a high dollar or heavy item. If you put the J&P one on your bike then sometime down the road it sounds like it might not be a bad idea to keep a spare around anyway- if you do have to grind the HD one then the J&P switch could buy you a little time to do the grinding work a bit more carefully.
My switch is still original from '00 but I think it's because early on I learned the "shave the key" trick. Let us know how it works out, or if this is making any sense.
All respect it wouldn't be a bad idea to figure out how to post pics, since they can help others figure stuff out better for you, and you to help others out too should you stick around. Plus it might help to post a couple in your intro.
Peace, Respect,
OHM
thanks for the help guys, i think i will try swappin switches on the ol sporty, and see if it helps. and i will also get some pics on here soon. the bike has been great fun to ride, i know its a little older, but it will still pull away from my buddy's 09 streetbob, and that really makes me smile.
BigDogBro1
Made in the USA
Intro Police!....WTF!!!
well, after some trouble shooting, i still have the ignition switch problem. i did try a few things, and the bike still wont run right with the switch installed. BUT< with the switch wired up, i can leave it hanging, and it runs great. or with the wires attached on one post, i can install it in the bracket(shares the same bracket as the coil), and it runs great. i thought it might have a bad connection where the ends are crimped on, so i replaced the ends to the switch and the coil. same problem. i was thinking that the ign. switch might only work if it is in the vertical position(while hanging by the wires) and tried to wiggle and shake the switch while riding, seems to be a little tougher than i thought, cause the bike has lots of power when running right, and you kinda need two hands to hold on with. didnt seem to make a difference. any other suggestions? the sporty switch wont mount in the bracket, it to big, and grinding doesnt look like an option.
Oldhvymetal
Member
I'm trying to read this critically... step by step. Forgive I have more questions. Seriously after busting balls a bit I would like to redeem myself and try to help get this resolved for ya...
Let's get this straight- mounting your sporty switch to the coil/ignition plate won't physically work, and an eyeball reckoning says that even with doing a switch mod (grinding) to the outside molding of the sporty switch you think it wouldn't fit because you would have to grind it to the point of damaging functional parts of the switch "[the sporty switch wont mount in the bracket, it being too big, and grinding doesnt look like an option]". OK, that sux.
If you take the original switch off the mounting plate and let it hang in the breeze the bike runs fine, am I getting that right? If so that to me tells me there's an intermittent short from the positive side of the switch to the ground through the mounting plate when the switch is mounted and the key is in place. The short could and most likely would be be through the key or the internals of the switch that the key enables through to the mounting plate and thus ground.
I got a radical idea to help isolate this problem... but I am still not clear if the current switch you are using is OEM or an aftermarket one. If it's OEM, do you have both original keys to the bike? Are you willing to sacrifice one of them?
If the current switch you have is OEM, check with the best hardware store you know of that "does" keys... see if they got a blank stock key with stock #HD 82, x129, or if they can get one (or two). These keys can easily be modified to be removed after the ignition has been set to "on", which would eliminate a short from the key to the ignition to the mounting plate.
It might be time to take this to PM between us if you want to follow the line of logic I'm following... suggest sending me a PM to see if we can figure this out further but of course hoping others will chime in, doing the best we all can for 'ya.
For the general audience- I found a way to shave (grind) a key on my bike so that I could move it to the on position and pull the key out of the ignition and hang it back on my key chain. If 00Husky's key is enabling a short from the switch to the mounting plate then being able to take the key out of the picture might help isolate where the problem might be. Just sayin'...
Let's get this straight- mounting your sporty switch to the coil/ignition plate won't physically work, and an eyeball reckoning says that even with doing a switch mod (grinding) to the outside molding of the sporty switch you think it wouldn't fit because you would have to grind it to the point of damaging functional parts of the switch "[the sporty switch wont mount in the bracket, it being too big, and grinding doesnt look like an option]". OK, that sux.
If you take the original switch off the mounting plate and let it hang in the breeze the bike runs fine, am I getting that right? If so that to me tells me there's an intermittent short from the positive side of the switch to the ground through the mounting plate when the switch is mounted and the key is in place. The short could and most likely would be be through the key or the internals of the switch that the key enables through to the mounting plate and thus ground.
I got a radical idea to help isolate this problem... but I am still not clear if the current switch you are using is OEM or an aftermarket one. If it's OEM, do you have both original keys to the bike? Are you willing to sacrifice one of them?
If the current switch you have is OEM, check with the best hardware store you know of that "does" keys... see if they got a blank stock key with stock #HD 82, x129, or if they can get one (or two). These keys can easily be modified to be removed after the ignition has been set to "on", which would eliminate a short from the key to the ignition to the mounting plate.
It might be time to take this to PM between us if you want to follow the line of logic I'm following... suggest sending me a PM to see if we can figure this out further but of course hoping others will chime in, doing the best we all can for 'ya.
For the general audience- I found a way to shave (grind) a key on my bike so that I could move it to the on position and pull the key out of the ignition and hang it back on my key chain. If 00Husky's key is enabling a short from the switch to the mounting plate then being able to take the key out of the picture might help isolate where the problem might be. Just sayin'...