why does my entire bike power cut out randomly at any speed and RPM

Part of the deal when I bought my bike last week was that they would completely service it, and fix a problem that the bike had with cutting out randomly at any speed and rpm. Complete power loss, however a turn of the ignition key, run start and you'd be up and running again for however long the bike wanted. I picked up the bike today, and they said they fixed a broken regulator bolt that controls the power to the computer, and if that power isnt regular, it will cause a lot of random problems. They said they couldnt get the bike to die for the life of them. This is a custom bike shop, so I figure they know what they're talking about. Problem is, it died three times again on me today within hours away from the shop. Anybody ever heard of this problem, and that it could be something I could suggest they look at? I would assume faulty ignition or ignition wires somewhere. I just would hate to have my bike lose power on a 70 mph turn and throw me...not to mention they got 500 bucks for "fixing" it.

BTW i'm not mad at them or anything (in case someone from that shop is on this forum) i just want the problem fixed.
thanks
 

Relic

Active Member
My wife's 05 Chopper was doing the same thing.

I'm not sure what exactly fixed hers since I did 3 things at once but:

I replaced the key switch & removed the resister going to the switch (it's behind the coil cover). The resistor was an "add on" by Big Dog on the 05's to fix an early EHC problem. Your 06 may not have it.

I also moved the EHC positive wire to the inside on the positive terminal.

Probelm was solved.

The key switch would be the first thing I would look at along with good battery & terminal conection.

Search the site and you'll find several things to try.

Good luck.
 

HMAN

I just like my Freedom
Make sure you have checked the connection on the EHC. I didnt have a battery strap and the battery would vibrate into the ECH plug and the bike would exhibit the exact same behavior. Was on an out of town run at the time and stuffed some rags between the two. Worked to get me home. Check your ground connections as well.
 

jimizee028

TRUE COLORS COLLISION
Mine did that for quite some time...when I opened up the pin connector for the EHC I immediately seen that there was one pin that rusted away ...i stuck a paper clip in there to act as the pin shut it all up,ordered another EHC,back in them days there were things called WARRANTIES,and rode until the new one came in and I rescheduled with bike shop....WHO HONORED WARRANTIES.....
 

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
I picked up the bike today, and they said they fixed a broken regulator bolt that controls the power to the computer
broken regulator bolt? Not sure what the hell they fixed the first time. :confused: If thats what they told you they are jerking you off :job: without even the common courtesy of a reach around. When you go back verify what they did, and ask to show you were it was. When you get home take a pic and throw it up I would like to see this so called bolt.

I think all the other recommendiations posted by the previous users are a good start. Let us now what you come up with.
 
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BigDogBro1

Made in the USA
The EHC is an intelligent (Electronic Harness Controller) if your shop doesn't know anything about this module they will not have a good chance fixing the problem. Old school won't work well on these bikes. There is dealer software that can read the EHC DT codes and other info. The newer EHC's have a USB connector on them while the older version is an old DIN circular PC keyboard style. The EHC monitors many of its inputs and output signals and will shut down the bike if conditions are incorrect.

Broken regulator bolt...huh, that's a new one. Nuff said.....

First of all you need to explain in some detail what is happening when the bike dies.
What are the EHC LED's doing if anything.
Can you restart the bike right after it dies.
What is the speedo and dash lights doing.

There is a TON of information on this forum regarding this subject. Do some searches to get started as well.

Make sure the wire CRIMPS on the wires at the battery post are all GOOD tight crimps...tug on them. Disconnect the battery and remove the harness connectors from the EHC. Gently clean the connector contacts with spray TUNER cleaner from Radio Shack and install (fill) dielectric grease into the connectors before you reinstall them.

Do some searches on the forum for "Dielectric grease"

12.8v is a normal GOOD battery voltage for a Bigdog. Batteries must be in GOOD condition and on a battery Tender when not riding. Tight battery terminal connections. Good charging circuit at 14v at 2k rpm.

Wire harness inspection for rubbing and shorts.

Let us know what you find out.

Good hunting.
 
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bruce

Active Member
you should get a shop manual, it is real hard to find a good shop. the more you work on your bike the better you will get. with this site and manual you will be able to fix a lot. with that said I had same problem about a month ago, bike would just shut down ( no power), I decided to remove battery and check EHC connector and when I did I found ground wire from EHC at battery totally broken but being held in place. would not have found if I didn't remove the battery. I still removed everything else EHC, etc. and cleaned connection up. I have not had any more problems, I am pretty sure it was the broken groung wire.
 

1BADK9

Limited Edition Member
Tyler, does the bike have a cruise mate throttle lock installed? Mine had similar issues and it was just an aluminum shaving in the throlle housing shorting out the run/off circuit by touching the circuit board. The aluminum shaving was from the sloppy tech that installed the cruise mate. Was really hard to figure out, but simple to fix. :2thumbs:
 

amylulu1

Active Member
I just had a customer with the exact type of issue. However, he wasn't having the typical symptoms of an EHC failure. The only issue was his bike shutting down on him randomly- no flashers blinking, no headlight failure intermittently, etc- just a shutdown. And my tech could not duplicate the problem- even after riding it about 120 miles 3 different times. It ended up that the issue was his S & S Delphi VFI Module was failing on him. He had a fuel injected bike and the module wasn't working to capacity. (Forgive me, I am technically ignorant so I can't go into detail). I definitely can't diag your bike over the internet (I couldn't even in person), but just giving some ideas on what to look for. Of course, if your bike is carbureted, just ignore this post!! LOL
 
Boy I like the response you get on this site. I'm in no way mechanically inclined, and I guess its simply on me to change that. I was this close to having the shop order a new EHC today (which they referred to as an ECM) when my buddy I bought it from called his buddy that sold it to him. The guy described the problem to my friend nearly word for word after a brief explanation, and told him its simply a bad ignition. I'd rather pay to have him fix that than pay for a brand new computer. As for a further explanation slash description, the bike will sometimes start hard, and when running strong (usually at interstate speeds) just cut off completely. No led's, no headlight, nothing. Just pure death of power. Quick turn of the ignition key, run run start and it fires back up only to die anywhere from a half mile to 10 miles down the road. it seems to get worse the longer I ride it. I guess I'll see what the ignition swap does. The regulator bolt as they called it is a bolt that (they showed me) was sheered off near the front of the frame. Its the regulator (part at very front underneath frame) that supposedly controls the power distribution and ground connections etc. It DOES seem that they have no interest in repairing whats wrong on the EHC at all, instead would rather just replace the whole thing. I feel bad insulting them because they're good veteran guys, it just seems like they arent that "old school, disecting mechanical type guys" they'd rather just replace stuff. Boy I hope they never see this - I shouldnt have used my real name on here...
 

05ridgeback

Active Member
i would get the adjustable thunder heart ignition,,,,and if you call them directly they will put the correct ends on it,,,,you can install yourself ...its not hard at all.
 

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
Boy I like the response you get on this site. I'm in no way mechanically inclined, and I guess its simply on me to change that. I was this close to having the shop order a new EHC today (which they referred to as an ECM) when my buddy I bought it from called his buddy that sold it to him. The guy described the problem to my friend nearly word for word after a brief explanation, and told him its simply a bad ignition. I'd rather pay to have him fix that than pay for a brand new computer. As for a further explanation slash description, the bike will sometimes start hard, and when running strong (usually at interstate speeds) just cut off completely. No led's, no headlight, nothing. Just pure death of power. Quick turn of the ignition key, run run start and it fires back up only to die anywhere from a half mile to 10 miles down the road. it seems to get worse the longer I ride it. I guess I'll see what the ignition swap does. The regulator bolt as they called it is a bolt that (they showed me) was sheered off near the front of the frame. Its the regulator (part at very front underneath frame) that supposedly controls the power distribution and ground connections etc. It DOES seem that they have no interest in repairing whats wrong on the EHC at all, instead would rather just replace the whole thing. I feel bad insulting them because they're good veteran guys, it just seems like they arent that "old school, disecting mechanical type guys" they'd rather just replace stuff. Boy I hope they never see this - I shouldnt have used my real name on here...
Ahh...Voltage Regulator. So it was a bolt that held on the voltage regulator that broke makes sense now :up:

Yea I would check the keyswitch first, make sure the wires in the back are connected tight. When the bike is running in the garage see if you can wiggle the switch and see if you can get the bike to cut off, that will tell you right away.
 

moegas

New Member
i have a similar issue. 04 chopper 45 min to and hour of riding bike loses spark it seems. lights seem ok, cranks ok, but will not turn over for about 30 min. then? VROOOM!! good to go, for awhile anyway.. seems to be, for me, the cam sensor. i understand that if you look at the red light on the thunder heart module under the seat it should blink with the input of the cam sensor as it spins. if it does not. that would point to the cam sensor. i just ordered mine today $120.00 be here friday. will install and take it for a beating to see what happens. if anyone has this issue and has found a fix please let me know. these bikes are so cool but for fuck sake can a dude go for a ride??
 
DAAAAAAMMMMN 120 Bucks
Wild Steed Worx HaS The Cam Sensor For 45 Plus Shipping
DO You Have Pipes That Wrap Close To The CaM Case NoSe
Heat Is Definitely The Enemy Of Electronics
 
update...my uncle as it turns out is a mechanic freak, and found all sorts of wiring issues on the bike. The wire that goes to the kill switch was loose, there was a loose wire in the ignition as well. Turns out the plugs were gapped at 2800 and not 4100 as well. Took the bike out and ran it and ran it and ran it, and it wouldn't die. Possible that the problem is fixed, just wish I would have talked to him before I drove 250 miles each way twice to make a total 1000 miles. I'm an idiot.
 

Brew

Troop Supporter
Well lets hope its fixed for good now! Congrats on getting it back on the road...:2thumbs:
 
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