Whats the cause of this?

Coolbreezin

Active Member
CAM01311.jpg CAM01312.jpg
This is my back rim. This stuff appears to be a mix of some type of grease and brake dust. Im asking only because I want to be safe and not risk a bearing failure. I just had my rim off for a Biketoberfest cleaning and the bearing were quiet and still well contained. Wheel rolled smooth and quiet too.
Anyone else have spooge similar on their back rim?
 

Hirter6Pack

Not Quite A Guru
Brake dust I'm pretty sure. That's why I thank I'm going with... next time.IMG_1316.PNG
Kevlar organic.
Unless I have something better.
 

SKOGDOG

One of the old ones.
Baddawg Bill is right..mos def oil with the brake dust. Could be a seep at the starter motor dripping oil down to the rear of the primary. Could be a loose primary plug --least likely. (warning--do not go crank it down tight and strip it I don't have a manual here but think the torque spec is 7 ft. lbs. or 70-75 inch pounds). If the plug leaks is's most likely a damaged o-ring.
You really need to try to figure out where it's coming from. Get some brake cleaner spray and clean it up good underneath, then go ride it and then look where the oil is coming from. Best to ride locally at a relatively low speed because at 70 or 80 oil tends to get vaporized. The wind whips it--makes it harder to trace.
 

SKOGDOG

One of the old ones.
Oil leaks can be as mysterious and exasperating as women (and damn near as expensive).
One time my K9 was leaking on the right side. Some of the oil migrated down to the left because of leaning over on the kickstand. But we figured it out and traced it to the right side and changed the transmission output seal. Not very costly and a fairly easy job.
The leak remained unchanged. Made a hell of a mess, and it also slung oil all over the drive belt, which attracted sand and grit, contributing to excessive wear on the rear pulley. Then I drained the primary found and it was overfilled. There was more than 32 oz that went in at the last change. So somehow oil was leaking into the primary. Had to be engine or transmission.
The leak got worse, and Blacktopper noted that there was enough of it that maybe to monitor both the transmission oil (input seal) and engine oil (primary seal) would provide a clue . Blacktopper finally figured it out--the crankshaft seal was leaking engine oil into the primary, which would then overfill and allow some oil to run through the tunnel for the clutch activating rod and drip on the right side, mimicking a transmission output shaft seal leak.
Since the engine oil won't hurt anything in the primary, I just drained out a few ounces of primary to keep the level down until it was convenient to change the front crank seal. Changing the seal itself isn't too bad, but getting at it is.....(used a 3/4" drive three foot long torque wrench with a pipe extension to break loose that damn nut on the crank.)
 

phatchopper300

I just wanta ride
I was going to say it's the quad seal but that's on right side of tranny hope you find it good luck

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
 

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
Oil leaks can be as mysterious and exasperating as women (and damn near as expensive).
One time my K9 was leaking on the right side. Some of the oil migrated down to the left because of leaning over on the kickstand. But we figured it out and traced it to the right side and changed the transmission output seal. Not very costly and a fairly easy job.
The leak remained unchanged. Made a hell of a mess, and it also slung oil all over the drive belt, which attracted sand and grit, contributing to excessive wear on the rear pulley. Then I drained the primary found and it was overfilled. There was more than 32 oz that went in at the last change. So somehow oil was leaking into the primary. Had to be engine or transmission.
The leak got worse, and Blacktopper noted that there was enough of it that maybe to monitor both the transmission oil (input seal) and engine oil (primary seal) would provide a clue . Blacktopper finally figured it out--the crankshaft seal was leaking engine oil into the primary, which would then overfill and allow some oil to run through the tunnel for the clutch activating rod and drip on the right side, mimicking a transmission output shaft seal leak.
Since the engine oil won't hurt anything in the primary, I just drained out a few ounces of primary to keep the level down until it was convenient to change the front crank seal. Changing the seal itself isn't too bad, but getting at it is.....(used a 3/4" drive three foot long torque wrench with a pipe extension to break loose that damn nut on the crank.)
Where was the impact?

Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk
 

SKOGDOG

One of the old ones.
Where was the impact?

Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk
We tried two of them and they didn't touch it. My compressor at home is a Craftsman 125 lbs with modest tank, so maybe I need more oomph there, but that nut was a bear! I was on the lift on the bike and Blacktopper was giving it all he had. It slid the rear tire over a couple of inches to the right before it finally came loose.
 

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
We tried two of them and they didn't touch it. My compressor at home is a Craftsman 125 lbs with modest tank, so maybe I need more oomph there, but that nut was a bear! I was on the lift on the bike and Blacktopper was giving it all he had. It slid the rear tire over a couple of inches to the right before it finally came loose.
I've had best luck on the bike using an electric impact. Actually the one you find at Harbor Freight with a coupon for $40. They seem to have more instant torque than air. Also I like the electric impact because the air tools have a larger throw and just beats the hell of shit. Especially that clutch nut, I used the air last time I and I felt like it was just an unnecessary beating.

Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk
 

BWG56

Guru
I've had best luck on the bike using an electric impact. Actually the one you find at Harbor Freight with a coupon for $40. They seem to have more instant torque than air. Also I like the electric impact because the air tools have a larger throw and just beats the hell of shit. Especially that clutch nut, I used the air last time I and I felt like it was just an unnecessary beating.

Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk
I replaced my old air impact with a HF Earthquake 1/2" drive, says it has 700ft/lb max torque, I would believe 50% of that and at 350ft/lb I only let it rap the nut a couple times and the its at 150ft/lbs. Air tank size has a lot to do with it being consistent.
 
Top