VR Replacement Question

[Kobi]

I'm doing a little preplanning on replacing my VR. I have a Compu-fire 55130 to install on my 08 Ridgeback. Can I just splice the wire that goes to the battery at the VR and not disturb the harness? Seems to be much easier than trying to cut all the zip ties and pull that single wire up thru the loom bundle back to the battery area. Thoughts? Thanks, Kurt

 

[Th3InfamousI]

Not a good idea, don't splice. Take the time to do it right the first time, will be worth it in the end

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[Mr. Wright]

, also replace the circuit breaker with a 40 amp fuse.

 

[Sven]

You're talking about the single long wire out from the VR, right? I'd just zip the single wire along the main harness and follow the wire back to the battery. You have to cut the old wire on the VR, and just leave the wire there in the harness. Want a running light? Use the old VR wire and hook it back up the the battery with a fuse, you have a remote hot wire for some jobber.

 

[Kobi]

Seems to me a good splice at the regulator would be fine. I could add the 40 amp fuse next to the regulator and keep the battery area free of clutter. Pulling and tugging on the harness trying to feed the wires both ways thru the harness bundle can't be good.

 

[Mr. Wright]

Do not splice the wire at the regulator, you will have nothing but trouble. Taking the wiring harness apart it not that big of a deal. It's just a few zip ties.

 

[Sven]

Splice is like a resistor. One variable, is too much chemical reaction with the flux kind; (two), the built up material [solder] and flow becomes questionable down the road.

Where I'll keep drilling this theory and think of the white [acid] buildup on a battery post... 'Magnetism: You cannot separate heat from the chemical reaction'. So at that splice, here comes the chemical reaction with the [micro] flux you missed = Resistor Point.

Thus the point not to splice... especially the VR wire.

 

[KaptinAmerika]

No splicing period.

My only other advice would be to keep the 40amp breaker and install an additional 25 amp breaker next to it,

 

[chubs]

No splicing period.

My only other advice would be to keep the 40amp breaker and install an additional 25 amp breaker next to it,

View attachment 74330

not doubting Kaptin, but shouldn't the connecting wire from the 40 amp to the hot side of the 25 amp breakers be 10 gauge wire also? 12 seems light for 40 amps . BUT I'm probably wrong again !

 

[Jersey Big Mike]

not doubting Kaptin, but shouldn't the connecting wire from the 40 amp to the hot side of the 25 amp breakers be 10 gauge wire also? 12 seems light for 40 amps . BUT I'm probably wrong again !

Yes technically -- I'd actually go from the 40A breaker with 10guage to the battery then 12GA to the other breaker. The saving grace if in a K-9 setup for example is the length of the 12ga wire -- in the K-9, its just a metal bar since the breakers are side by by.

 

[Kobi]

Is the additional 25 amp breaker to protect the EHC?

 

[Jersey Big Mike]

Is the additional 25 amp breaker to protect the EHC?

EHC, LIGHTS, accessories etc. Since much of the wiring on a dog is lighter gauge than an old school wired bike this is not a bad plan.

 

[Kobi]

In my case I was instructed to add a 20 amp fuse to feed the EHC(Axel's) from the battery. Seems like another fuse/breaker would be overkill. 40, 25 and 20.

 

[KaptinAmerika]

not doubting Kaptin, but shouldn't the connecting wire from the 40 amp to the hot side of the 25 amp breakers be 10 gauge wire also? 12 seems light for 40 amps . BUT I'm probably wrong again !

You can certainly do 10ga crossing from breaker to breaker but it isn't really necessary.
12 ga will more than handle that short jump for the VR.
Going to the battery in 10ga is a necessity as that circuit will handle more amperage than the breaker to breaker circuit will.

In my case I was instructed to add a 20 amp fuse to feed the EHC(Axel's) from the battery. Seems like another fuse/breaker would be overkill. 40, 25 and 20.

Obviously each person has to take stock in their system and decide what they want to do.
The schematic just indicates the best possible scenario with that setup.
We are actually looking for a good low cost power distribution block like BD started using in the Wolf as we feel that is actually the best setup to have in a BD at this time. Compact, quality fast blow J type fuses all in one package.

 

[Kobi]

Okay, no slice. Here is my plan on getting the new wire back up to the battery. Cut all the zip ties, then disconnect the old VR wire under the seat. Tie a string to the end of the old VR wire. Pull the wire w/string down under frame, then continue to pull old VR wire thru loom covering under motor to VR. Then tie the new VR wire to string and pull the new wire using the string all the way back up to the battery tray. Think that will work?

 

[Sven]

Ah, no. I'd solder both wires then pull it thru the harness. No bulge at the solder points so it's a smooth pull all the way.

 

[Th3InfamousI]

Okay, no slice. Here is my plan on getting the new wire back up to the battery. Cut all the zip ties, then disconnect the old VR wire under the seat. Tie a string to the end of the old VR wire. Pull the wire w/string down under frame, then continue to pull old VR wire thru loom covering under motor to VR. Then tie the new VR wire to string and pull the new wire using the string all the way back up to the battery tray. Think that will work?

Unless someone updated the wire loom you know it just a mesh/nylon and basically unrolls it's just wound up in a circle, right?

Just pull the old one out and you can just use your fingers to press the knew line into the loom.

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[Mr. Wright]

Yeah, your making this way harder than it is.