just got my cylinders back..now trying to put bike back together for az bike week whats left...maybe even get to meet some of the members would really like that.. anyway this wouldn't be possible without mick (magroom) and john sachs...great guys and both know there shit and very professional...one try from them. everything local had to be done 3-5 times..and just got back the last of the engine..that was promissed 2 wks ago..anyway the intake manifold has a spot for a voes switch..read some about it..but want the opinions from my brothers..since i'll be up most of night puttin engine together..plz let me know your thoughts...0 deck,heads done by sachs,big valves,640 cam,thunderheart ignition 5012 already on ..few other things..you get the drift...plzz let me know..thanxx....also if no voes switch what plug for manifold??? thanxx again. to excited to sleep hope it goes back together as easy as it came apart...
voes on a 5012 thunderheart??
- Thread starter wyatt580
- Start date
05 old dog
Well-Known Member
i drilled and tapped mine and locktite a allen head plug into it...
MARV
Well-Known Member
My dynatek ign comes with a voes wire.
Options are to hook it up, ground it for race application or not use it.
Im not using it. Just taped up the wire end.
On install be sure to Check your ring gaps in the cylinder set at the same depth.
Plus install rings with the gaps staggered As per specs.
Options are to hook it up, ground it for race application or not use it.
Im not using it. Just taped up the wire end.
On install be sure to Check your ring gaps in the cylinder set at the same depth.
Plus install rings with the gaps staggered As per specs.
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I have a bike I call, bulletproof, because it is proof, about staggering rings. I haven't staggered rings since the 70's. You won't try it, so if you want ease of cylinder assembly.
You want voes tuning? If there is a wire for it, turn key on, set the ohm meter to 20v. Black probe to ground, red probe goes to any wire out of the spark box that has 5v reading out of it. That is your voes (+) wire. The unit needs to read 10th of volts, thus the low voltage and a well charged battery.
Take the voes wires, hook the digital ohm meter up to the two wires; set it to ohms. You want to read numbers on the vacuum. Suck or blow on the vacuum nipple. If you can move that ear drum inside, and it draws numbers on the ohm meter, you have a good unit. Even an analog meter with the needle will swing. I does not matter, just move a needle or show numbers.
As stated, Knock is the hot rod setting so it's race gas or high octane to quiet the knock. Either that or run regular, and never lug the engine. Up a hill in a higher gear, too low an rpm to boot, would be lugging it. Not good!
YW.
Here is a little bit of controversy... Rings spin in their grooves. If rings spin, then the thrust fallacy is evident as to how does the ring get away with spinning were the stagger is not? In other words, this thrusting up and down has yet to hurt an engine's integrity as if it will blow smoke, the rings will move away from each other within a few hundred miles; installed another way.
With that said, I collect all my gaps and run them in the back. I can tilt on the piston's pin, watch the cylinder capture each ring, were I have to look 120° off of each one, making sure it does not fall out of it's ring groove. I watch all 3 at the same time are the closing, or the narrowing of the ring's gap into its individual groove.
By setting the round sides in the bore first, I can rock the barrel to circle around the rings, or pop one in at a time, straighten the barrel over the middle ring, then push the round up into the barrel with a slight cock, but not enough to pop out the compression ring; I have to start all over.
With rings and bore, you can cock or drop. Either way. With lube, I coat the skirts only. Whatever is left on my hands, I wipe the rings so that is the lube for; I do not oil my barrels. Those are left dry. The skirts are my only concern. By the time that crank comes around, it whipped oil up the pistons so it's really a waste to lube anything else... Sans the wrist pin and all that.
Open end of the piston pin's C clip; has the open gap facing up. If they are spring clips needing a collapsing tool to close the gap down meeting the pin's groove. There is a flat side to the clip. That flat faces you. The round side can be pushed by the thrust of the pin. So, that cut is how you dig into the groove, not pop out of the groove.
If those rings are too hard on the fingernails, because I do not use anything else to push the rings in... Sans a nylon type of stick to push on that brittle ring. Unless, these are really hard to push in? Then I use spring steel over the rings. Like some windup toy, that spring needs to be wide enough to cover over all 3 rings. Then, a hose clamp claps over the spring steel. This protects the skirts from being cut by the threads made for that hose clamp; not to screw down onto the soft piston material. Ideally, the narrower the spring steel the better.
You lower the clamp so the thinner spring steel sticks up and out from the clamp. The taper of the bottom of the barrel is for ring collapse. That thinner starter spring, being [slightly] above the compression ring is, how you make the rings all enter with ease. Just a suggestion, moving 180° away from the 120 degrees spread of old.
Here is a little bit of controversy... Rings spin in their grooves. If rings spin, then the thrust fallacy is evident as to how does the ring get away with spinning were the stagger is not? In other words, this thrusting up and down has yet to hurt an engine's integrity as if it will blow smoke, the rings will move away from each other within a few hundred miles; installed another way.
With that said, I collect all my gaps and run them in the back. I can tilt on the piston's pin, watch the cylinder capture each ring, were I have to look 120° off of each one, making sure it does not fall out of it's ring groove. I watch all 3 at the same time are the closing, or the narrowing of the ring's gap into its individual groove.
By setting the round sides in the bore first, I can rock the barrel to circle around the rings, or pop one in at a time, straighten the barrel over the middle ring, then push the round up into the barrel with a slight cock, but not enough to pop out the compression ring; I have to start all over.
With rings and bore, you can cock or drop. Either way. With lube, I coat the skirts only. Whatever is left on my hands, I wipe the rings so that is the lube for; I do not oil my barrels. Those are left dry. The skirts are my only concern. By the time that crank comes around, it whipped oil up the pistons so it's really a waste to lube anything else... Sans the wrist pin and all that.
Open end of the piston pin's C clip; has the open gap facing up. If they are spring clips needing a collapsing tool to close the gap down meeting the pin's groove. There is a flat side to the clip. That flat faces you. The round side can be pushed by the thrust of the pin. So, that cut is how you dig into the groove, not pop out of the groove.
If those rings are too hard on the fingernails, because I do not use anything else to push the rings in... Sans a nylon type of stick to push on that brittle ring. Unless, these are really hard to push in? Then I use spring steel over the rings. Like some windup toy, that spring needs to be wide enough to cover over all 3 rings. Then, a hose clamp claps over the spring steel. This protects the skirts from being cut by the threads made for that hose clamp; not to screw down onto the soft piston material. Ideally, the narrower the spring steel the better.
You lower the clamp so the thinner spring steel sticks up and out from the clamp. The taper of the bottom of the barrel is for ring collapse. That thinner starter spring, being [slightly] above the compression ring is, how you make the rings all enter with ease. Just a suggestion, moving 180° away from the 120 degrees spread of old.
MARV
Well-Known Member
Sven, that's great that you run your gaps soldiered to the rear and find no known issues. On a high lift build on a street bike that normally won't need any internal attention for 3 + or - years id consider it foolish not to follow S&S's advice on ring stagger.
A dollar says the OP staggers
No welching
A dollar says the OP staggers
No welching
sven i did stager per s&s manual as i dont really have enough experience to go against..this is a hobby for my son and i..did this with my dad he really new his shit..but wasn't much on talking except to get the tools...so this time i'm trying to learn why and talk to my son....thanxx marv always respect your opinion... got bike runnin and headed to az bike week last night...took for test ride and at steady speed it was stumblin. so took home and changed my jets 31 inter 74 main was 33 inter 76 main... seemed fine ran strong..so headed to westworld [bike week] on freeway started stumblin again at 2000-2500 65-70 mph. before or after it was fine and if i hit it not hard [new build] it was fine.also noticed my rpm was at 500 but no oil light came on.thought ok i can live with that..then i ran out of gas at 48 mls..i topped it off so 48 seems real low..now since its been down 1.5 months with no battery.. i'm thinkin i have to reset the thunderheart ignition the programmable one..thanxx again if you guys can think of somethin i might of missed.... o sven i just took a car ring compressor and cut the extra tin below the clamp and smoothed out the cut.put a clamp on and wala first cylinder my son and i got on with fingernails the second was in need of clamp no more fingernails..
Guys at American Honda, took a CB400F, staggered piston rings, gathered piston rings. After a few hundred miles, they tore it back down. Found the rings flutter or harmonic? Or, how about I say, watch the phenom for yourself.
You still have that piston floating in the X (pin) and Y (skirt clearance) to reposition the ring some = Z (ring staggered moves in a circle).
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vcyT18qk8ls]2010 BMW S1000RR cut engine 4 valve action 14000 rpm - YouTube[/ame]
You still have that piston floating in the X (pin) and Y (skirt clearance) to reposition the ring some = Z (ring staggered moves in a circle).
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vcyT18qk8ls]2010 BMW S1000RR cut engine 4 valve action 14000 rpm - YouTube[/ame]
Brew
Troop Supporter
:roll::roll::iagree::roll::roll: And you didn't even have to say much...
