valves seem noisy

Stimey131

Member
It seems like I just got all the bugs work out of my bike, then about 2 weeks ago as I was on the interstate I could hear a completely new sound that sound like it was coming from the valves. It wasn't very loaud and went away after 10-15 secs. I'm still hearing the sound off and on, so I stop by my mechanics shop and of course it didn't seem to do it while he was listening to it. He said it was probably just a valve that has lost compression or presure, sorry guys can't remember exactly what he said, but he said that I had nothing to worry about. Well the sound is getting a little loauder and more frequent and now when it does it it makes my exhaust sound funny as well. Can anyone tell me what is going on with it. Usually when I hear a sound that is not a normal sound its usually a warning of something to come, but if its not then great. Also there doesn't seem to be any loss of power when i hear it. I just want to make sure I'm not doing any major dmg by continueing to ride it. I forgot to mention I have an 07 Mastiff with 117 in it. I did have the heads P&P, 600 cam, carb jeted, .004 taken off the jugs, Thunderheart ingnition, V&H BR exhaust, I'm hoping to be able order the PSI Big air carb this month. Unless I have to get something else fixed first. Thanks in advance.
 

Little-Boo

Well-Known Member
Troop Supporter
With all the mods that your bike has make sure it is not detonation what you are hearing. If it is and you are running the Thunder Heart adjustable ignition I would crank her down on notch or use better gas like VP unleaded racing fuel. That is what it sounds like to me, hope that helps

Carlos :whoop:
 

Stimey131

Member
I'm using a 94+ octane blend with pure gasoliene,no ethonal and i think I have my thunder heart set on 4 or 5, but which ever one I set it to I fairly certain it was the 36 deg mark. I will dial it back down one notch and take it for a ride and if it is still making the same sound I'll go back one more. if contiues after that it must be something else. I will let you guys know tomorrow how it went. Thanks again for the help.
 

Stimey131

Member
Raywood I'm not sure what you mean by check the tube in the first tank. I can fix most whatever i set my mind to, but I have very little expierence working on the dog. If you don't mind explaining to me what I'm looking for and how to check it I'm sure I can do it no problem. I changed my compression releases out. Thanks for the input.
 

V

Guru
If it is detonation as Boo noted you might want to run a oil cooler and make sure you run good fuel, premium only and remember if you top off your tank at a station that has one hose for multiple octanes you're most likley getting low test out of the first 12' of hose and pipe from the pump.

Also check your screen for the tappets to make sure it is clear and if you can narrow down where the noise is coming respond back. From what it seems like history has had the the front cylinder exhaust tappet be the first to go.
 

Raywood

The Pirate
Staff member
Calendar Participant
Troop Supporter
Sounds like your problem is your ignition setting. Stock BDM are locked at 32 degrees. S&S recommends 28-30.
As for the vent tube, i thought i had top end problems but all it was was a broken vent tube in the tank that I dis overed AFTER tearing my top end down!!!
 

Stimey131

Member
Well i finally got time to set my ignition back #3 on the thunder heart ignition and think that is the 32* degree mark. I took it out for a ride and the sound was much less as loud as before, but it is still making the noise. Also since it never seems to make the noise while at idol, I can only hear it when riding. Looking at the bike from the front over the haddle bars and best as I can tell the sound seems to be coming from the rear cyclinder in the rocker boxes from the valves on the same side as the shifter. I can 't be %100 sure thats where the sound is coing from, but when I'm riding it seems to be the loudest from that area.
Not sure how to check the tappet screens, but i will find out so I can check them. Then i will update the thread. Also I may even adjust the timming back one more notch, but I don't think it causing the noise, it is just making it more or less noticable.
 

BadBrad

2005 Pitbull
You might want to re-adjust your pushrods and see if that helps. Only takes about 3 beers to do. If you only adjust the rear cylinder, 1.5 beers.
 

wyatt580

Well-Known Member
Yea that's at least a 6 pack....don't let them get warm....... althow personally when we open the dog for surgery there's a fresh keg.....just can't figure out why it takes so long to work on the dog....:)
 

V

Guru
Yea that's at least a 6 pack....don't let them get warm....... althow personally when we open the dog for surgery there's a fresh keg.....just can't figure out why it takes so long to work on the dog....:)
Have to check it again the next day to see what you forgot :cheers:
 

wyatt580

Well-Known Member
Yea some times I wonder why I bought that part...it runs without it...pretty soon goona have a yard sale with all the left over parts...lol...
 

Stimey131

Member
I was out doing some bar hoping on the Mastiff last night and the sound seems to be getting worse. Also now when I hit the starter button it acts like it doesn't want to start. I know this may sound funny, but it sounds like it trying to suck in so much air it just locks up. I could hear air being sucked in through the choke for a split sec until the chock sounded like it was sucked shut and no air could get in anymore and then it wouldn't turn over. So I opened the choke up and turned over and made a really loud pop out of one of the exhaust pipes. I say loud pop because it didn't sound like a normal back fire sounds. I hit the starter button again and it started right up. As soon as I pulled out on the road and the rpms came up it started making the same sound. Even when the motor is making this sound it doesn't seem to affect the performance of the engine any. I'm just worried somethings going to finally give and do some serious damage.
 

Raywood

The Pirate
Staff member
Calendar Participant
Troop Supporter
I was out doing some bar hoping on the Mastiff last night and the sound seems to be getting worse. Also now when I hit the starter button it acts like it doesn't want to start. I know this may sound funny, but it sounds like it trying to suck in so much air it just locks up. I could hear air being sucked in through the choke for a split sec until the chock sounded like it was sucked shut and no air could get in anymore and then it wouldn't turn over. So I opened the choke up and turned over and made a really loud pop out of one of the exhaust pipes. I say loud pop because it didn't sound like a normal back fire sounds. I hit the starter button again and it started right up. As soon as I pulled out on the road and the rpms came up it started making the same sound. Even when the motor is making this sound it doesn't seem to affect the performance of the engine any. I'm just worried somethings going to finally give and do some serious damage.

Just saying but your carb doesn't have a choke at all :)
 

XTREEME

Active Member
...when I hit the starter button it acts like it doesn't want to start. I know this may sound funny, but it sounds like it trying to suck in so much air it just locks up. I could hear air being sucked in through the choke for a split sec until the chock sounded like it was sucked shut and no air could get in anymore and then it wouldn't turn over...
You can also get this scenario from a weak battery. It takes a lot of juice to turn over that high compression, especially with the extra work that you mentioned you had done to it. I had a similar experience with mine, seeming like the compression wouldn't want to release, until I got a new Braille. No more issues with that now.
 

BadBrad

2005 Pitbull
Stimey, did you ever re-adjust your pushrods? I've heard where some have had better results and less noise with 3 full turns as apposed to 4 full turns as suggested by S&S. When you let your pushrod set 15 minutes to allow the lifters to adjust, spin the pushrod with your fingers and look to make sure one has not bent.
 

V

Guru
Stimey, did you ever re-adjust your pushrods? I've heard where some have had better results and less noise with 3 full turns as apposed to 4 full turns as suggested by S&S. When you let your pushrod set 15 minutes to allow the lifters to adjust, spin the pushrod with your fingers and look to make sure one has not bent.
Not sure what a 07 calls for but the 05 manual did state that if the valves were noisy to change from 4 turns to 3 turns on the pushrods.

also might check all your main ground to the starter and the crimps on the main cables to make sure you're gettin full power.
 

Stimey131

Member
I did readjust the pushrods to the 3 turn setting and after 15 min I went to make sure i could spin them freely. Since I don't have a lot of expierence working on my bike I tend to second guess my self alot, but when I tried to spin the pushrod going to the rear cyclinder I think it might be slightly bent because it would spin easy, then get really hard to spin, then back to easy. The front pushrod would spins around just fine. So just to play it safe I'm going to replace the pushrods and tappets. I changing tappets because I've got a buddy of mine that bought some Jims high performace for $300 that he ended up not using and I'm getting them for $150. I have to wait a few days for the pushrods to get here and while I'm waiting I'm going to check the main ground to the starter and crimps on the main power cables. I bet there is a ground lose or something, because sometimes when I turn the key on, the speedodomiter arm goes through its thing, but the rest of the bike won't have power, for example no power to the tach or compression releases, but the starter still has power.. I thought this was from a low battery, but I keep a battery tender on it now. Let me get the new parts on and see what it does. Thanks for all the input guys. If this forum wasn't here for me to ask question on I would have sold this bike.
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
I think this turned into a 6-pack rebuild. Listen to Brad on the 3-spins up, not the tighter 4 turns out. Now is the time to take a compression check on that one stuck or bent exhaust pushrod. If that exhaust valve is bent, there might be your noise? Only way to find out is even compression or more teardown.
 
Top