I torqued it all up cold, took a ride and loosened the upper mount to frame bolt and the mount moved quite a bit when loosened.
I can run a combination of bolt tightening sequences:
1. Of course this is static in setting, so I room temp my static torque settings, or let it sit out in the sun and cook some heat in the frame you go boil an egg on the tank kind of ready to torque now.
2. Where do I push my static so I have less shim at my head steady bolt?
3. I can loosen the engine and trans, push that little bit of mm over to one side is narrow down the gap with less washer thicknesses or use none as the steady kisses the frame, etc.
4. I cannot first tighten the head steady and pull the engine up to one side.
5. I already moved the gap narrower. I now heatwave torque or room temp torque the engine points first.
6. The engine is square to the frame. I have a gap at the head steady to frame = Static Gap.
7. I shim shit out of it, as it has no washers dropping out of that gap they sit in; without a bolt thru it.
8. That's a hand push of an interference fit as I want. No hammer was used in this post.
9. And this should keep the vibe from occurring, or if the engine rocks on the frame all in the static no bolts?
10. Pack your 100% cotton briefs with cotton balls. This will help keep the vibration down from traveling up to your wrists and putting those to sleep.
