Transmission maybe?

[mask]

Hey fellas,

I need help diagnosing this issue, The bike goes in gear with no problems and shifts all the way up to 6th gear but it revs up very high and the bike barely moves. For example i will get it up to 4000 rpms in 1st gear and only be at 11mph, 2nd gear i might get it to 20mph but the rpms are high. I can roll the bike when it is turned off and in gear, it does not move as smooth as if it is in neutral but it moves. i havent ridden yet this season other than around my development to warm the bike up before changing the fluids.

 

[V]

How many miles? Have you tried adjusting the clutch? Has the nut come loose on the clutch push rod? Is there tension on the clutch lever or does it have slack in the cable?

 

[bruce]

everything he said, your clutch is slipping for some reason.

 

[mask]

i adjusted the clutch today when I tried to go for a ride it was creeping in 1st gear, and was hard to shift. no slack in the cable after adjustment. the nut on the clutch push rod is not loose i checked while adjusting the clutch

 

[mask]

does it require taking the primary cover off and tightening the clutch hub nut that requires the impact wrench and is left hand threaded?

 

[08mastiff]

does it require taking the primary cover off and tightening the clutch hub nut that requires the impact wrench and is left hand threaded?

Yes. You have to remove the throwout bearing to reach the clutch hub nut. Just make sure after you tighten the clutch hub nut, you back out the clutch rod before installing the throwout bearing. Then you make your proper clutch adjustment. When you put fluid in the primary make sure you put primary fluid. I had ATF and it slipped real bad like yours does. This was just after I tightened my clutch hub nut. When I drained that ATF crap and filled it with Primary fluid all slippage was gone. Easy fix and doesn't cost anything more than a quart of primary fluid.

 

[mask]

Yes. You have to remove the throwout bearing to reach the clutch hub nut. Just make sure after you tighten the clutch hub nut, you back out the clutch rod before installing the throwout bearing. Then you make your proper clutch adjustment. When you put fluid in the primary make sure you put primary fluid. I had ATF and it slipped real bad like yours does. This was just after I tightened my clutch hub nut. When I drained that ATF crap and filled it with Primary fluid all slippage was gone. Easy fix and doesn't cost anything more than a quart of primary fluid.

Thanks, I will do that tomorrow after work. I used HD primary and chain case fluid

 

[RRRUFF]

mask,
From what you have said your clutch is defiantly slipping. Clutch adjustment, loosen the cable adjuster located on the down tube then loosen the jam nut on the clutch rod adjusting set screw, then back off the set screw. Now turn the clutch rod adjusting screw in until it bottoms out light pressure but snug. Now back off the set screw 1/4 of a turn and tighten the jam nut while holding the set screw. Now adjust the cable adjuster on the down tube until you have about an 1/8" of play in the hand lever. Now after this you still have high rpms then pull the primary and check the clutch hub nut and check the clutch disc and spacers for wear and warpage. Hope this helps.

 

[Sven]

Smell the clutch basket. It either has a working metallic type smell, or a burnt type of taste in your mouth.

1. When you have burnt clutches, the pack shrinks down. It is no longer in its 'serviceable limit.'
2. When you screw-in-the-adjuster, do all the correct moves and it still slips, it has a tolerance; just like any other close tolerance part on the bike.
3. When you go out and it still slips = Replace the whole clutch pack to gain back that tolerance.

 

[Bobby Schulz]

Slipping clutch...
See if the clutch cable or the lock nut for the push rod is loose.
Take off the primary cover and check for burnt clutches.
Check the shaft that the clutch goes on for any play or movement.
Tighten down the clutch hub nut with some red locktight.
Fill primary with 20w50 regular oil or primary oil. I do not like to use synthetic here.
Adjust clutch only if needed after test ride.

 

[mask]

FIXED!

it was operator error I overtightened the clutch pushrod during my initial adjustment.
I just got it tight and backed it off 1/4. Thanks for all the advice fellas. I just took it out and it shifts crisply