Torque Values and Adhesives Wall Chart
- Thread starter chacha
- Start date
Peckerwood
Active Member
Well done, just printed it out, thanks.
Nukeranger
Nukeranger
:2thumbs: Thanks for sharing. I wouldn't torque our inspection cover bolts to 9 ftlbs. A lot of us have cracked our inspection covers. I recommend half that.
francoblay1
The Spaniard
Added to my Manuals. 
bigdogtech01
Well-Known Member
I'm not trying to offend anyone so don't take this the wrong way, but a lot of this list is not up to date. I'll try and update it for you. Some of the torque values are not up to date and the loctite as well.
For example, the motor mounts should take Red loctite, not Blue. And the torque values of the nuts/bolts listed with final torque of a degree, you no longer do it this way. They get final torque to a FT Lb setting. Example, the head bolts are final torque of 40 ft lbs, not 90 degree. Same with the Drive sprocket nut. Final torque is 80 ft lbs. Clutch hub nut is 100-120 ft lbs.
I'll try and get the list corrected for you guys within a day or so.
Like I said, not trying to offend anyone here. Just want the correct info. Thank you for posting this besides
For example, the motor mounts should take Red loctite, not Blue. And the torque values of the nuts/bolts listed with final torque of a degree, you no longer do it this way. They get final torque to a FT Lb setting. Example, the head bolts are final torque of 40 ft lbs, not 90 degree. Same with the Drive sprocket nut. Final torque is 80 ft lbs. Clutch hub nut is 100-120 ft lbs.
I'll try and get the list corrected for you guys within a day or so.
Like I said, not trying to offend anyone here. Just want the correct info. Thank you for posting this besides
bigdogtech01
Well-Known Member
Not sure how to correct the actual list, so someone will have to help. But here are some of the ones that should be changed...
-Belt tensioner 40 ft-lbs 272 Red ( ?? this is
Wolf? )
-Brake rotor mount bolt 50 ft lbs 272 Red ( 25 ft lbs )
-Cam nut 60 ft lbs 243 Blue ( Cam nut? )
-Carb to manifold bolts 35-40 in-lbs 222 Purple ( 10-32 EFI) (3/8" bolts, Carburetor 18-20 ft lbs, Blue )
-Cylinder head bolts 8 ft-lbs,18 ft-lbs then 90 degrees Engine Oil (10,20, final 40 ft lbs)
-Front axle pinch bolts 12 ft lbs 243 Blue ( 9 ft lbs)
-Inner primary bolts 15-18 ft-lbs 243 Blue ( 19 ft lbs )
-Inspection cover bolts 9 ft lbs 243 Blue ( 4-6 ft lbs )
-Motor mount bolts 50-60 ft-lbs 243 Blue ( Red )
-Neutral switch 10-15 ft-lbs 243 Blue ( Thread sealant )
-Oil pump assembly bolts 100 in-lbs 243 Blue ( 80 in lbs rotating, 100 in lbs final )
-Oil pump mounting bolts 15-18 ft-lbs 243 Blue ( ?? )
-Pinion Bolt 35 ft-lbs Engine Oil ( Pinion Nut? 50 ft lbs, RED loctite )
-Rear axle 55-65 ft lbs Antiseize on Rod ( 65-70 ft lbs )
-Rear fender strut bolts 25 ft lbs 243 Blue ( 35 ft lbs, RED loctite )
-Reed valve screws 10-20 in-lbs 222 Purple ( ?? )
-Rob Bolt 23 ft-lbs, !45 degrees Engine Oil (?? Rob bolt? )
-Rocker arm nuts 30 ft-lbs 272 Red ( Bolts? 20 ft lbs, Blue Loctite )
-Rocker Box 5/16” 15-18 ft-lbs 243 Blue ( 18-20 ft lbs )
-Transmission drain plug 7-9 ft-lbs teflon tape ( 6-7 ft lbs )
-Transmission Drive side Pulley nut 50 ft-lbs + 40 degrees 272 Red ( 80 ft lbs )
-Transmission main / clutch hub shaft nut 80 ft-lbs 272 Red (100-120 ft lbs)
-Triple tree pinch 16 ft-lbs 243 Blue ( 10 ft lbs )
-Upper engine mount to cylinder 35-40 ft lbs 243 Blue ( RED loctite )
-Upper engine mount to frame 45 ft lbs 243 Blue ( RED Loctite )
-Belt tensioner 40 ft-lbs 272 Red ( ?? this is
Wolf? )-Brake rotor mount bolt 50 ft lbs 272 Red ( 25 ft lbs )
-Cam nut 60 ft lbs 243 Blue ( Cam nut?
)-Carb to manifold bolts 35-40 in-lbs 222 Purple ( 10-32 EFI) (3/8" bolts, Carburetor 18-20 ft lbs, Blue )
-Cylinder head bolts 8 ft-lbs,18 ft-lbs then 90 degrees Engine Oil (10,20, final 40 ft lbs)
-Front axle pinch bolts 12 ft lbs 243 Blue ( 9 ft lbs)
-Inner primary bolts 15-18 ft-lbs 243 Blue ( 19 ft lbs )
-Inspection cover bolts 9 ft lbs 243 Blue ( 4-6 ft lbs )
-Motor mount bolts 50-60 ft-lbs 243 Blue ( Red )
-Neutral switch 10-15 ft-lbs 243 Blue ( Thread sealant )
-Oil pump assembly bolts 100 in-lbs 243 Blue ( 80 in lbs rotating, 100 in lbs final )
-Oil pump mounting bolts 15-18 ft-lbs 243 Blue ( ??
)-Pinion Bolt 35 ft-lbs Engine Oil ( Pinion Nut? 50 ft lbs, RED loctite )
-Rear axle 55-65 ft lbs Antiseize on Rod ( 65-70 ft lbs )
-Rear fender strut bolts 25 ft lbs 243 Blue ( 35 ft lbs, RED loctite )
-Reed valve screws 10-20 in-lbs 222 Purple ( ??
)-Rob Bolt 23 ft-lbs, !45 degrees Engine Oil (??
Rob bolt? )-Rocker arm nuts 30 ft-lbs 272 Red ( Bolts? 20 ft lbs, Blue Loctite )
-Rocker Box 5/16” 15-18 ft-lbs 243 Blue ( 18-20 ft lbs )
-Transmission drain plug 7-9 ft-lbs teflon tape ( 6-7 ft lbs )
-Transmission Drive side Pulley nut 50 ft-lbs + 40 degrees 272 Red ( 80 ft lbs )
-Transmission main / clutch hub shaft nut 80 ft-lbs 272 Red (100-120 ft lbs)
-Triple tree pinch 16 ft-lbs 243 Blue ( 10 ft lbs )
-Upper engine mount to cylinder 35-40 ft lbs 243 Blue ( RED loctite )
-Upper engine mount to frame 45 ft lbs 243 Blue ( RED Loctite )
Last edited:
john sachs
Well-Known Member
Head Bolts = oil under flange/washer, oil on threads. 10 - 20 and then 90 degrees. Doing it any other way, and you STAND A GOOD CHANCE of pulling a stud (threads) out of the case on 4" bore S&S motors. :bang: I've gotten by with final torque of 40 lbs. on 4 1/8" bore S&S and Twin Cam S&S cases, although I use 10 - 20 and 90 degrees on all S&S cases.
This way they can't say I didn't follow their torque values.
John
This way they can't say I didn't follow their torque values.
John
bigdogtech01
Well-Known Member
I started going to 40 ft lbs final torque a number of years ago once I realized, with a digital torque wrench, you can see that 90 degrees is not as accurate. If you take the digital and turn 90 degrees after the 20 ft lbs, you can have some end up at 35 ft lbs, and some end up at 42 ft lbs. With going the 90 degrees, I have seen a lot more base gaskets leaking than if you go the final 40 ft lbs. I have even spoke with S&S about this a few years ago and since then, they have updated some of the manuals with the 10,20 and 40 spec.Head Bolts = oil under flange/washer, oil on threads. 10 - 20 and then 90 degrees. Doing it any other way, and you STAND A GOOD CHANCE of pulling a stud (threads) out of the case on 4" bore S&S motors. :bang: I've gotten by with final torque of 40 lbs. on 4 1/8" bore S&S and Twin Cam S&S cases, although I use 10 - 20 and 90 degrees on all S&S cases.
This way they can't say I didn't follow their torque values.
John
john sachs
Well-Known Member
On 4 1/8" S&S motors you have EQUAL length head bolts. If torqed at values + 90* listed by myself or S&S it's IMPOSSIBLE to get different readings. :argue:
Because of the history on the 4" bore motors pulling studs, I also go with the values, and 90*. I've done quite a bit of warranty work for S&S, and learned that their way on their motors is my way also.
When it comes to Harley Davidson motor builds, I use 16, 26, 35, 39, and check at 40. :2thumbs:
Actually, I wrote the torque specs for Cometic back in the day.
John
Because of the history on the 4" bore motors pulling studs, I also go with the values, and 90*. I've done quite a bit of warranty work for S&S, and learned that their way on their motors is my way also.
When it comes to Harley Davidson motor builds, I use 16, 26, 35, 39, and check at 40. :2thumbs:
Actually, I wrote the torque specs for Cometic back in the day.
John
bigdogtech01
Well-Known Member
I'm sorry, but I have to disagree with you on this John. It is possible to get different readings and has been proven, not just once, several times. It's about thread stretch and frictional loss. If you go back and check the head bolts that you just turned to 90 degrees, set on ft lbs you will find they are not the same. And I'm talking 5-6 ft lbs difference (that will not cause the studs to come out of the case) What will cause the studs to come out is someone doing a final torque of 90 degrees and going more than 90. If someone goes 10 degrees farther, that could be 20 ft lbs more. So instead of close to 40, you are now around 60 Yes, that can take a stud out of a case.
I have never had an issue with torquing this way, and 0 comebacks for base gasket leaks. Early to mid 90's H-D Evo motors had problems with the studs coming loose because the factory was not putting loctite on some of them. I have seen some S&S with this problem as well. That's why I always check the studs any time the top end is off the motor.
Yes, that can take a stud out of a case. I have never had an issue with torquing this way, and 0 comebacks for base gasket leaks. Early to mid 90's H-D Evo motors had problems with the studs coming loose because the factory was not putting loctite on some of them. I have seen some S&S with this problem as well. That's why I always check the studs any time the top end is off the motor.
john sachs
Well-Known Member
Andrew,
What is not being considered is operating temperature and how it influences cylinder growth. Torque becomes greater as the cylinder grows at a much faster rate than the head bolts/studs. Check the torque on an engine at operating temperature, and you will find equal torque with the 90 degree method, this includes, and is the reason that dissimilar length head bolts should be torqued with the 90* method.
Do I use it? Not all the time, because I've learned over the years which cases require more finessing, and are weak in that particular area.
If someone goes beyond 90* , they have no business working on the motor. The same can be said about a torque wrench that is out of calibration/spec.
Many improvements have been made over the years in design, motor mount, proud cylinder liners, base and head gasket material to stop oil weeping, leaks, and blown gaskets, all to make them mechanic - proof.
John
What is not being considered is operating temperature and how it influences cylinder growth.
Torque becomes greater as the cylinder grows at a much faster rate than the head bolts/studs. Check the torque on an engine at operating temperature, and you will find equal torque with the 90 degree method, this includes, and is the reason that dissimilar length head bolts should be torqued with the 90* method.Do I use it? Not all the time, because I've learned over the years which cases require more finessing, and are weak in that particular area.
If someone goes beyond 90* , they have no business working on the motor. The same can be said about a torque wrench that is out of calibration/spec.
Many improvements have been made over the years in design, motor mount, proud cylinder liners, base and head gasket material to stop oil weeping, leaks, and blown gaskets, all to make them mechanic - proof.
John
bigdogtech01
Well-Known Member
Ok, for the sake of dragging this out farther, we will just leave it at, Either way will work, Lol