Top triple

stlmikie

I wish I had more money.
So I got a used top triple for a build I'm doing yesterfmday. It was black originally but has seen its better days. It has scuffs and scratches all over it. So I'm going to strip it and maybe polish it or powder coat it kind of deal. I shot it with some aircraft paint remover but that didn't touch it. Which leads me to believe that it is anodized. What is a good way to remove the anodized stuff?
 

BBChopper

Supports 2 Disabled Vets
Troop Supporter
Mike if it is anodized it's in the metal and would have to be sanded out. I would powder coat over it....
 

1mndg

RIDE IT HARD!!!
Anodizing is only a thousandth or three deep into the aluminum. You should be able to buff through it with scotch bright or fine sandpaper. Then polish it up. If your going to paint or powder coat it just do it right over the anodizing.
 

Little-Boo

Well-Known Member
Troop Supporter
So I got a used top triple for a build I'm doing yesterfmday. It was black originally but has seen its better days. It has scuffs and scratches all over it. So I'm going to strip it and maybe polish it or powder coat it kind of deal. I shot it with some aircraft paint remover but that didn't touch it. Which leads me to believe that it is anodized. What is a good way to remove the anodized stuff?
Mikie I have a used one that is just collecting dust in the garage. It came off my Mastiff and you are welcome to it if you want it. Let me know.

Carlos :2thumbs:
 

Five Five

Well-Known Member
Anodizing is only a thousandth or three deep into the aluminum. You should be able to buff through it with scotch bright or fine sandpaper. Then polish it up. If your going to paint or powder coat it just do it right over the anodizing.
Very good Bob.... Unlike plated coatings the Anodize coating penetrates and builds at the same time, and builds a 0.0006" to 0.0012" coating in both directions it also makes the anodized surface non-conductive .... a can of Drano crystals (sodium hydroxide) mixed with 5 gallons of water will break down the coating... add the crystals slowly as it may get a little violent, and submerge your triple tree into the solution.... make sure your triple tree is free of oil and grease before submerging... use dish soap to clean... submerge for a minute to a minute and a half the aluminum will turn a smut black.... be careful the solution does attack and dissolve the aluminum.
 

stlmikie

I wish I had more money.
I'm doing the Drano deal. I Youtubed it and foung several vids on it. Boo thanks a ton for the offer but this is a metric build that wouldn't accept one off our bike. I can't think you enough for the offer though. Thanks.
 

Five Five

Well-Known Member
I'm doing the Drano deal. I Youtubed it and foung several vids on it. Boo thanks a ton for the offer but this is a metric build that wouldn't accept one off our bike. I can't think you enough for the offer though. Thanks.
Alright Mikie
 

BBChopper

Supports 2 Disabled Vets
Troop Supporter
Very good Bob.... Unlike plated coatings the Anodize coating penetrates and builds at the same time, and builds a 0.0006" to 0.0012" coating in both directions it also makes the anodized surface non-conductive .... a can of Drano crystals (sodium hydroxide) mixed with 5 gallons of water will break down the coating... add the crystals slowly as it may get a little violent, and submerge your triple tree into the solution.... make sure your triple tree is free of oil and grease before submerging... use dish soap to clean... submerge for a minute to a minute and a half the aluminum will turn a smut black.... be careful the solution does attack and dissolve the aluminum.
Holy shit I dont want to know how you know that shit but I bet you know what to do with a bag of ammonium nitrate....:rolleyes:
 

stlmikie

I wish I had more money.
Alright. Here's how it went down. First I used the Drano.

I used the gel style Drano thinking is would adhere a little better. I'm not sure if that was the right thing to do though. What ended up happening was the gel did adhere bit I congealed and didn't allow fresh Drano to the metal if that makes sense? So I couldn't just dunk it and leave it. I had to keep stirring it. That did alright but like I hoped. Then I got out the angle grinder with one of these pads.


I had to mould some spots and completely remove other parts. Here is the pad I used to remove the rest of the anodize and do the light molding. This is the final product its not pretty but if fits the build that I'm doing now.
.

Maybe one of the mods can isolate this last post and put it into the how to section. There are actually a shit pot load of videos of how-to's on YouTube. Most are dealing with RC components.

And finally my apologies for my poor spelling and punctuation. It has never been my strong suite.
 

JeffM

Active Member
WOW your game using drain-o, that shit is almost pure CAUSTIC soda.
The mortal enemy of alluminum.

I bet you didn't think of this prior to using it...............alluminum is porous and as such absorbes.............things like caustic. You will or should have placeed it in an alkaile bath prior to handling it and after you washed it under water for 10 minutes.
Good luck getting anything to stay painted to it or pollished as the shit leaches out over time. I learnt the hard way years ago doing the wifes BMW R65. I'm still not allowed to touch it 20 years later.
 

stlmikie

I wish I had more money.
Jeff you are correct my friend. Aluminum is very porous. I did soak it as well as pul some wax on it. Still I would be reluctant to paint it. The finish you see is the finish it gets. If I were to paint it I the future I would only use s satin clear. The entire bike will prolly get the satin clear on it. Maybe. Kinda going the dirty route.
 

Coolbreezin

Active Member
If the aluminum does become etched, whats the best way to remove the black and also get the etching out? I understand sanding is the only real route to remove the pits, but what is the best weapon? Ive heard sandpaper, scotchbrite, steel wool, a rasp. All kind of crap.
 
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