Tappets adjustments

Raywood

The Pirate
Staff member
Calendar Participant
Troop Supporter
This is the best explanation yet I've heard on tappet adjustments. S&S Cycles on Facebook is posting some great articles. They sent me some great information yesterday on carb tuning that I will post once the gallery gets back to normal.

But just want to add this article they wrote today with an illistration: S&S Cycle, Inc.: Push Rod Adjustment | Facebook

Bring Cam to Base circle for the tappets you wish to adjust. You can do this by rotating the motor over till you have dual movement of the pushrods for the other cylinder. One should go up the other should go down, either way at the same time. The cylinder that you’re adjusting, the tappets should be on base circle of the cam, lowest point in the tappet block for the tappets. Adjust the push rods as such.
Zero lash the pushrod, no up and down movement, tight against rocker arm, and tight against tappet/lifter.
Mark the push rod with a marker or paint stick. Extend the push rod four full turns or 24 flats (if using S&S Push Rods, S&S push rods have a thread pitch of 1/32”)
Allow the tappet/lifter to bleed down 20/30 minutes, longer is better.
If after 20/30 minutes you can spin the push rod with your fingers you do not have limited travel tappets. Locks the push rod down, you are now done adjusting. Move on to the next. Repeat process for the other cylinder and push rods.
If you cannot spin the push rod, you have S&S Limited Travel tappets. From this point you want to shorten the push rod. While shortening you will feel drag on the push rod, this is the valve spring tension. While shortening, you will feel the valve spring release the push rod; at this point you should notice it being easier to spin the push rod with your wrench. From this point you want to shorten one full turn, 6 flats. At this point you should be able to spin with your fingers. Lock down the push rod and repeat for the rear cylinder. Do not try to make short cuts in this process. Proper bleeding down of the tappets is critical for healthy running motors. Damage to motor will happen not following these instructions.
This may be a bit hard to read but I'll get it emailed to me from S&S and post a larger version of it here along with the carb adjustment and post them in the How To section.

 

BadBrad

2005 Pitbull
This is the best explanation yet I've heard on tappet adjustments. S&S Cycles on Facebook is posting some great articles. They sent me some great information yesterday on carb tuning that I will post once the gallery gets back to normal.

But just want to add this article they wrote today with an illistration: S&S Cycle, Inc.: Push Rod Adjustment | Facebook



This may be a bit hard to read but I'll get it emailed to me from S&S and post a larger version of it here along with the carb adjustment and post them in the How To section.

Thanks for the post Ray. But let me ask, how is this different from any previous posting on how to adjust pushrods? The only thing I see that is different is the explanation of limited travel vs non limited travel tappets. Don't most all our dogs have non limited travel tappets?:confused:
 

V

Guru
It a good re-explanation with good pics that even I can understand. Thanks Richard oh i mean Ray :D:2thumbs:
 

Raywood

The Pirate
Staff member
Calendar Participant
Troop Supporter
Thanks for the post Ray. But let me ask, how is this different from any previous posting on how to adjust pushrods? The only thing I see that is different is the explanation of limited travel vs non limited travel tappets. Don't most all our dogs have non limited travel tappets?:confused:
For one it explains better how to find TDC on the rear lifters. Easy with the front by looking at the flywheel marking but the rear is a pain and this explains it better than either manual. And it tells you how to tell if you have limiters which neither manual tells you.

Sticky it is

:cheers:
 

Brew

Troop Supporter
Thanks outdoorsman for pointing this out. I was going off the old tread. This new one is a bit different. Thanks for posting the how-to Ray...:2thumbs:
 

joshdell

New Member
pushrod covers

I just got done with the adjustments but my pushrod covers are have pits in them and I would like to replace them. Can I remove the lifter from the pushrod and get the covers off to replace them?
 

chacha

Chaff Your EHC!!
Calendar Participant
Joshdell wrote;

I just got done with the adjustments but my pushrod covers are have pits in them and I would like to replace them. Can I remove the lifter from the pushrod and get the covers off to replace them?
Nope. If you have the stock pushrods, they have to come out of the top, so you'd need to pull the cover of the rocker boxes, pull the rockers, pull the rods, replace your covers, then put it back together. Easy enough, but takes some time and gaskets.
 

V

Guru
I just got done with the adjustments but my pushrod covers are have pits in them and I would like to replace them. Can I remove the lifter from the pushrod and get the covers off to replace them?
As Cha Cha said to remove the pushrods you have to pull the top boxes. Another route you can go is with the quickee pushrods from S&S. It requires cutting out your existing pushrods with a bolt cutter or the like (sounds bad but it isn't) The quickie push rods have more thread on them allowing the pushrod to be removed/installed with out pulling the top end componets. It would also you allow you to change cams or pull the lifter blocks later with out pulling the top appart. You can check them out on S&S website. Other manufactueres make them as well.
 

nine lives

Active Member
Here is what I don't get. Why don't they say what year got what tappets or how did they decide what motor gets the standard or limited travel? Maybe, enee menee minee moe?
 

nine lives

Active Member
Non Limited Travel Tappets

Ok, just incase anyone is interested, I re-adjusted my push rods (I think this is the forth time in 10,000 miles) Anyway, as per the latest adjustment form from S&S I found my tappets to be the non-limited travel. Did a 4 turn from zero and seem to be pretty quiet on a short 10 mile run, already had a 4 turn adjustment at some point, maybe have to keep re-adjusting until full break in.
 

okred696

Member
Somethings not right. Once you acheive zero lash you should only go 4 rounds or 24 flats. If you did that twice you are going to have lifter to tight. It has .200 travel or cushion internally and when properly adjusted should be in the middle of its travel. Approxmately at .100 this compensates for wear over time and allows for a quite valvetrain. You might want to call S@S or ask Big Dog Tech01 just to make sure.
 
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