AllNewbie
Member
Sorry for my ignorance,new to the big dog gang. Who is steed?
Is it my understanding from your description that dependant on the year my bike may have one or the other? But not both? Or am I reading into that wrong?
Surging and Stalling
- Thread starter AllNewbie
- Start date
Is it my understanding from your description that dependant on the year my bike may have one or the other? But not both? Or am I reading into that wrong?
AllNewbie
Member
Is this my crank sensor? I was under the impression this was my speed sensor, but it looks like what others have pointed out in pics on the forum
Jersey Big Mike
100K mile club
While not applicable to big dogs, on other bikes it most certainly could be black box/ignition. I had my first bike die after about an 1hr and start back up after being off for a while and do it once more before I got home, it was the ignition module in the nose cone -- got to hot and crapped out/cooled off and it would run for a while again.
Cam sensor is in the nose cone of the engine. Yours is the cam sensor not a crank sensor.
However considering the year of your bike not sure if it's stock or previous owner put in a different ignition module.
Take the nose cone off and take a picture see what your working with.
Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk
However considering the year of your bike not sure if it's stock or previous owner put in a different ignition module.
Take the nose cone off and take a picture see what your working with.
Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk
Yes that is your can sensor and ignition module. Take bike out for a 10 minute ride then head back home. With the cover off. I bet it will stay running for longer than 20 minutes without the cover. Heat will effect those modules.
Or... bring a can of dust-off and cool it off once you start to hear it buck and misfire. Pull over and if it can still run, spray and see if the timing returns on the proper firing thereof.
Or... let it stall out, start it and if it cranks, then spray the dyna unit at it. If it fires off... Bingo!
Or... let it stall out, start it and if it cranks, then spray the dyna unit at it. If it fires off... Bingo!
Take a extra spark plugs along. If it acks up check each plug wire for spark.
Then you will know if it's fuel or spark.
Then you will know if it's fuel or spark.
AllNewbie
Member
So, am I still chasing the cam sensor? Or do we think it's ignition module now?
Sorry, still trying to learn about all this while trying to repair and stay as unfrustrated as possible
To check for spark, I just pull the wire, hook the new spark plug to it and hold it close to the engine block while trying to crank the motor over?
@Sven @Rottweiler
Sorry, still trying to learn about all this while trying to repair and stay as unfrustrated as possible
To check for spark, I just pull the wire, hook the new spark plug to it and hold it close to the engine block while trying to crank the motor over?
@Sven @Rottweiler
Yep
AllNewbie
Member
So are we thinking that it's the ignition control module overhearing or the cam sensor still the culprits?
Yes, that would be the side of the road, no tools to remove plug, just plug in the spare you brought. You're getting the hang of it.
Spark check too, is to hold the plug wire cap hard to the head, so the plug has a good ground. Or... where it's dark enough to see the spark, you'd have to hold it on the engine, under the tank? As long as the plug is grounded, you won't get a shock.
Say you do remove a plug out of the cylinder(s); you want it away from the hole, or that gas mist out of the hole will blow a flame out of there and well, you now know what not to do finding spark with an open plug hole.
Well, that's what you are chasing. Think of a set of points back in the day is the same as a dyna at the cone, or a sensor at the engine case; it is the set of points that evolved into many kinds of points in play.
Heat, or let me put it another way.. dust-off on an over heated component is the chemical antidote... where I am no longer frustrated in the theory of... Magnetism: you cannot separate heat from the antidote LOL... excuse me... chemical reaction.
Only Frosty Freeze knows for sure.
Spark check too, is to hold the plug wire cap hard to the head, so the plug has a good ground. Or... where it's dark enough to see the spark, you'd have to hold it on the engine, under the tank? As long as the plug is grounded, you won't get a shock.
Say you do remove a plug out of the cylinder(s); you want it away from the hole, or that gas mist out of the hole will blow a flame out of there and well, you now know what not to do finding spark with an open plug hole.
Well, that's what you are chasing. Think of a set of points back in the day is the same as a dyna at the cone, or a sensor at the engine case; it is the set of points that evolved into many kinds of points in play.
Heat, or let me put it another way.. dust-off on an over heated component is the chemical antidote... where I am no longer frustrated in the theory of... Magnetism: you cannot separate heat from the antidote LOL... excuse me... chemical reaction.
Only Frosty Freeze knows for sure.
Yep
AllNewbie
Member
Thanks for the info!
Can I replace the ignition control module for one that's better suited for the heat? Or what exactly can I do to fix the actual issue itself?
If cooling it off works, does that mean that the cam sensor itself is fine? This is all great info, I'm just trying to figure out what do work on ordering/replacing since its so inconsistent and intermittent that I hate going out for a ride because I'm afraid one of the time I won't be lucky enough to limp home
Can I replace the ignition control module for one that's better suited for the heat? Or what exactly can I do to fix the actual issue itself?
If cooling it off works, does that mean that the cam sensor itself is fine? This is all great info, I'm just trying to figure out what do work on ordering/replacing since its so inconsistent and intermittent that I hate going out for a ride because I'm afraid one of the time I won't be lucky enough to limp home
No. Heat is the enemy when it's sitting in the cone or case environment. What you could do is replace it with the same unit.
If cooling off works, it means the sensor is bad. Heat is the breakdown factor.
I'll give you an example watching someone rewire a guitar pickup. The guy wraps a stripped down pickup using new brass wire off a spool. He then dips it in a hot epoxy. Watt that does is causes the wrap to be one wound wire over each other, but does not make contact when it was at one time, laying on each other. So when you see that brown, clear epoxy over the brass wire, a hot spot is going to boil the epoxy off a 'weakest link' kind of area that that was wound. It now [expansion wise] breaks contact. Cool down wise it regains contact. Thus a heat cycle is the theory.
Even though the 3 variables have each its own deep roots, meaning, spark can be centralized by process of eliminating the group in the ignition loop. That loop being the hard parts; coil; plugs; black box; crankcase or cone sensors. The wiring to and from the hard parts are chained together so it's not the wiring, but more a jobber in that loop.
Now, just for grins, I go into a meguyveer mode and find a finned hard part in the computer tower and remove that aluminum fin off of the fan/card, some aluminum fin inside there. I then goop glue the fin on the dyna face. Tape the fin in place, glue the outside edges so it sets up. The fins should stick out of the cone so no cover needed. Fins also had to be positioned so the fins are horizontal so the wind passes all the fins, not vertical so just the fin blocks the rest.
Test ride next day so the glue sets up. You circle the ranch so you can walk it home if say it finally takes a shit, or the fin is the band-aid fix is the heat sink. Cool, no? Wallet says you've got nothing to lose, but 5 bucks worth of goop glue in a tube. Home depot has it.
If cooling off works, it means the sensor is bad. Heat is the breakdown factor.
I'll give you an example watching someone rewire a guitar pickup. The guy wraps a stripped down pickup using new brass wire off a spool. He then dips it in a hot epoxy. Watt that does is causes the wrap to be one wound wire over each other, but does not make contact when it was at one time, laying on each other. So when you see that brown, clear epoxy over the brass wire, a hot spot is going to boil the epoxy off a 'weakest link' kind of area that that was wound. It now [expansion wise] breaks contact. Cool down wise it regains contact. Thus a heat cycle is the theory.
Even though the 3 variables have each its own deep roots, meaning, spark can be centralized by process of eliminating the group in the ignition loop. That loop being the hard parts; coil; plugs; black box; crankcase or cone sensors. The wiring to and from the hard parts are chained together so it's not the wiring, but more a jobber in that loop.
Now, just for grins, I go into a meguyveer mode and find a finned hard part in the computer tower and remove that aluminum fin off of the fan/card, some aluminum fin inside there. I then goop glue the fin on the dyna face. Tape the fin in place, glue the outside edges so it sets up. The fins should stick out of the cone so no cover needed. Fins also had to be positioned so the fins are horizontal so the wind passes all the fins, not vertical so just the fin blocks the rest.
Test ride next day so the glue sets up. You circle the ranch so you can walk it home if say it finally takes a shit, or the fin is the band-aid fix is the heat sink. Cool, no? Wallet says you've got nothing to lose, but 5 bucks worth of goop glue in a tube. Home depot has it.
AllNewbie
Member
I might as well just replace both units then. The ignition control box and the cam sensor. I just need to find a place to buy them both.
I assume they are both fairly easy to Interchange in and out?
Also, I just tried to start the bike to check for spark, and it looks like I have no spark and the bike will not start now. It just turns over.
I assume they are both fairly easy to Interchange in and out?
Also, I just tried to start the bike to check for spark, and it looks like I have no spark and the bike will not start now. It just turns over.
HMAN
I just like my Freedom
Call Curtis. He will have what you need.
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