AllNewbie
Member
Tried calling a few times, not sure if they aren't doing anything over the phone right now or not.
Anywhere else? Or even a pn to cross reference?
Surging and Stalling
- Thread starter AllNewbie
- Start date
Anywhere else? Or even a pn to cross reference?
AllNewbie
Member
Okay, digging into this deeper, I tried to remove the ignition module hoping to find the cam sensor behind it. I did not find the cam sensor, only a copper cup. (?)
I then traced the wires coming from the ignition module and realize that only two of them are hooked up to anything, the other three (blue purple and green are not connected to anything.)
I followed the two wires that were actually hooked up, the yellow and the pink back to this Ultima wiring harness. What the heck am I missing here?
I then traced the wires coming from the ignition module and realize that only two of them are hooked up to anything, the other three (blue purple and green are not connected to anything.)
I followed the two wires that were actually hooked up, the yellow and the pink back to this Ultima wiring harness. What the heck am I missing here?
HMAN
I just like my Freedom
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knothead
Second Chance Customs
Ur cam sensor and ignition module u have is all in one unit which u removed...cup that u took off behind the module is for when the motor is spinning the cup aligns with the back of the sensor, that u have hanging down in this picture, so to make the sensor send signal to the coil for it to fire
Jersey Big Mike
100K mile club
Ok, you have a unit that looks like it is setup for dual fire.
Both the wires that are connected would be going to the coil (one for front, one for rear)
Other wires are Tach/Voes and Single fire.
A basic manual for the 2000i can be found here https://www.wwag.com/step/pdf/123271.pdf
The color scheme does not seem to match but the functions would still be the same with only 2 wires.
The person that wired that unit in, badly used 2 red wires to extend the unit to the coil so you are going to have to trace them out. Personally I'd replaced them so they are properly color coded.
It appears while the Dynatek is still available for sale, their support site makes me wonder (many broken links) I think they may have been sold.
You might want to consider using a Daytona Twin Tec unit 1005 (my personal choice for that style) http://www.daytona-twintec.com/model-1005-ex-internal-ignition.aspx
I have never put one in a Big Dog but that was the module I used in my BMC with a REVtech 100ci engine.
Both the wires that are connected would be going to the coil (one for front, one for rear)
Other wires are Tach/Voes and Single fire.
A basic manual for the 2000i can be found here https://www.wwag.com/step/pdf/123271.pdf
The color scheme does not seem to match but the functions would still be the same with only 2 wires.
The person that wired that unit in, badly used 2 red wires to extend the unit to the coil so you are going to have to trace them out. Personally I'd replaced them so they are properly color coded.
It appears while the Dynatek is still available for sale, their support site makes me wonder (many broken links) I think they may have been sold.
You might want to consider using a Daytona Twin Tec unit 1005 (my personal choice for that style) http://www.daytona-twintec.com/model-1005-ex-internal-ignition.aspx
I have never put one in a Big Dog but that was the module I used in my BMC with a REVtech 100ci engine.
AllNewbie
Member
To date, I've:
-replaced new ignition module
-redone the wiring from ignition to coil
-replaced the coil
-replaced the spark plugs
-replaced spark plug wires
-checked/cleaned all chassis ground connections
-replaced battery
-cleaned and tuned carb with new jets
-replaced fuel line
-cleaned petcock
-drained fuel and tried new clean fuel
Still left me stranded on the side of the road for like the 6th time.
Feels like it's running on one cylinder when it starts to die, that's the best way I can describe the loss of power before it fully dies. Limited to no throttle response and surging hard when it gets throttle response. Will then stall and die.
I'm at a loss right now on where to go.
-replaced new ignition module
-redone the wiring from ignition to coil
-replaced the coil
-replaced the spark plugs
-replaced spark plug wires
-checked/cleaned all chassis ground connections
-replaced battery
-cleaned and tuned carb with new jets
-replaced fuel line
-cleaned petcock
-drained fuel and tried new clean fuel
Still left me stranded on the side of the road for like the 6th time.
Feels like it's running on one cylinder when it starts to die, that's the best way I can describe the loss of power before it fully dies. Limited to no throttle response and surging hard when it gets throttle response. Will then stall and die.
I'm at a loss right now on where to go.
Say it runs fine, then runs on one cylinder, then dies... is to quickly turn the petcock off, drain the float bowl and see if it's low on fuel.
Can't be compression, it keeps starting.
Can't be spark, seems like if it's one coil for both cylinders, it's keeping the one cylinder running.
Can't be compression, it keeps starting.
Can't be spark, seems like if it's one coil for both cylinders, it's keeping the one cylinder running.
AllNewbie
Member
I'm not sure I'm going back out anytime soon. This is the 6th time I've been left on the side of the road lol.
What would cause it to be out of the fuel? Line is new and petcock was clean as a whistle. I'll give it a try though
Na, try it this way... with an empty gas can, you'd want the tank topped off, cap on. Drain hose down to the gas can, but now watch for it to stop. You want to make sure it might have a slow enough vent, assuming you pulled over, waited long enough to let it vent so it slowly fills the carb back up. Here I assume you tried a few times before towing it.
So ride, no ride. Here we go again. No ride is the top off and wait for it to trickle from a good strong stream. Next is to have a can of dust-off, stall out, pull over, spray the cam sensor [if applies]. Seems the best way is to remove sensor and and spray the core (pin) so that cools the coil windings. That, or hold the can and keep spraying the body to just about freezing it. Wear a glove while spraying to freeze it, then if not, shake the can a few, not a lot. See if the bike starts ... if cam sen applies.
Edit: If we went thru the cam sensor... let's spray the ultima box, or any black box with the dust-off.
So ride, no ride. Here we go again. No ride is the top off and wait for it to trickle from a good strong stream. Next is to have a can of dust-off, stall out, pull over, spray the cam sensor [if applies]. Seems the best way is to remove sensor and and spray the core (pin) so that cools the coil windings. That, or hold the can and keep spraying the body to just about freezing it. Wear a glove while spraying to freeze it, then if not, shake the can a few, not a lot. See if the bike starts ... if cam sen applies.
Edit: If we went thru the cam sensor... let's spray the ultima box, or any black box with the dust-off.
Last edited:
AllNewbie
Member
This was the same test you had me try from page one, correct? The fuel flow one?
Are you still thinking it's a heat issue with the ignition mod? I've been riding without the cone cover to avoid any heat issues.
Mikeinjersey
Well-Known Member
AllNewbe, I know this is getting old for you but if your bike will restart and run well only after cool down the problem is more than likely heat related. If it will start and run well immediately or shortly thereafter it's more than likely just coincidence that the first failure takes awhile to happen.
Considering the ignition parts you have replaced without success I would be looking next at the wiring to the EHC. Check and re-seat all the connectors on the EHC but take special note of Pin 6 (red-18-Ignition/coil) of the 15 position connector. If your problem is not the wiring I'm pretty sure WildSteedWorx.com can test your EHC under stress conditions.
Attachments
Jersey Big Mike
100K mile club
OK Allnewbie try this.
Get a house fan and aim it at the engine -- fire up the bike and let it run till it gets hot. Give it some throttle occansionally to get there faster.
Cool off parts (electronics) with some thing like this https://www.parts-express.com/max-p...B7Qtqg2j8ZI3MZNpKld-goAGGy1gSHrRoCvXAQAvD_BwE
If it solves the problem, there you go.
If not, try this when it fails, check the engine compression. Measure before you start so you know whats good. I know Sven doesn't think its compression but I've seen hairline cracks create issue then they expand (not likely but hey check it anyway to positively eliminate it).
Do you have dual exhaust -- if so you can feel the result of combustion in each chamber -- (found a cracked plug that way once)
Also spray around the intake when this happens to check for vacuum leak when hot ( again less likely but eliminates the possiblity.
Personally, I'd expect at this point that it may be the EHC but some testing will help confirm or disprove this.