Super G Problems

Energy One

kkeizer

Member
Help! I am new to this forum as of today! A friend of mine recommended me to this site. I have just purchased a 05 mastiff and have only ridden it for 100 miles. I recently purchased a G carb and installed it on my bike. I installed a 32 intermediate and a 76 main. I have the V&H big radius pipes installed. I removed the restrictor plates when I installed the new intake. I started the bike and the first thing I checked was for any leaks and I had no leaks. The problem I having is the bike has a dead spot between 2500 to 3000rpms. I brought the bike to my local big dog dealer and he can not fix it and is at the point of not knowing what to do next. The last thing he did was changed the jetting to 33 int. and a 78 main. He told me that this G carb has an air bleed jet and he messed with that and he removed the carb and cleaned it out to make sure nothing was blocking any passage ways. They are unable to fix the bike, they had they bike sniffed and the jetting checked out until the bike was around 3000rpm and then it showed lean. They are at the point of not knowing what else to do and I do not know what to do. Has anyone heard of this or dealt with it and does anyone have some advice?
 

jwoolf

Well-Known Member
I think Gas man has a How to thread on this.

It has to be adjusted a certain way to get the flat spot out. The rpm range you're talking about is the switch between int jets and main jets.

The accel pump setting may need adjustment too. ( it provides the squirt for the rollover ) Or, at least it does on my weber.

you have an accel pump screw but, there's a set procedure for doing all the settings for your carb. If you follow them, you'll, at the very least, get rid of your flat spot.


Also, go to the introductions section and introduce yourself. ( also, pin the map ) Tell us something about yourself and, post some pics of your scoot.
 

Raywood

The Pirate
Staff member
Calendar Participant
Troop Supporter
Welcome to HRB. Next go to the intro section and tell us about yourself and post a pic of your bike.

As for your carb. When you removed the plates did you replace with the spacer plates?
If you were to buy the BR pipes from BD then they would have come with a 31/76 jet combo.
You didn't mention what part of the country you live in as that effects jets.
You didn't mention what you are running for an aircleaner either.

Give us a bit more info to work with.

Enjoy the site,
Ray

:flag:
 

kkeizer

Member
I live in Grand Rapids, Michigan and I purchased an S&S Single Bore induction system for a air cleaner. When I removed the restrictor plates I completely removed them and I had the new intake against the heads with new gaskets.
 

lee

Well-Known Member
did you remove the bowl vent screw from the carb? you say the dealer messed with the air bleed - what did they do to it?
 

kkeizer

Member
I am not what you would call a mechanic by any means so bare with me. I do not know what the bowl vent screw is or where it is located on the bowl. I know I did not remove any screws before I brought it to the dealer. All my dealer told me is that he messed around with it trying to make it run better. He did tell me that the carb that you would purchase from BD would not have changeable air bleed screws but the carb I installed did! I purchased the carb from a friend of mine that purchased it from a Honda dealership. He told me that it was brand new and came from Phat Performance Products. I don't know if S&S sells G carbs with different internals or not?
 

V

Guru
I was under the impression that when S&S started producing carbs with removable air bleeds thats all they made. When I had the G kit put on at my BD Dealer the carb kit from BD included the new manifold and the G carb with air bleed.:hi:


V
 

lee

Well-Known Member
do you still have the instructions from the intake? it tells you in them to remove the bowl vent screw and shows exactly what it is - do a search on here and you will find a picture of it - you should probably leave the air bleed (which is a 0.040" main jet) alone, although changing it for a bigger one will delay the transition from the inter to main jet. Don't do this though - very doubtful it will be necessary.
 

kkeizer

Member
I purchased the intake from my local BD dealer and he did not have the instructions. I will search the site and see if I can find a pic. You would think though that my dealer who currently has my bike would know this; wouldn't they?
 

Fibersnake

Banjo Playing PsychoBilly
KK,

I am pretty sure that all the S & S Super G including ones that were being sold by BD Dealers have the internal changeable screws. Not sure but it may be that the mechanice you are dealing with is not that familar with the S&S .

This may help also help and would recommend that when you get a chance that you go to the S&S Web site and down load the technical and instruction manuals that may be good to have. Some folks print them out and put them in a nice binder to keep near the bench along with the BDM and S&S Service manual as well as some of the How to on here.

Here is the link to S&S on their Super E and G carbs.

http://www.sscycle.com/modules/instruction/uploads/51-1012.pdf
 

Raywood

The Pirate
Staff member
Calendar Participant
Troop Supporter
Here's a quote from S&S;

S&S Super E & G Carbs were introduced in 1990 and have become the best selling performance carb in market. Now S&S has produced the 500,000th Super Shorty carb. Good looks, easy tuning and exceptional performance make the S&S Super Shorty carbs the ones to get. So how do you improve on that? A simple design change makes the Super Shorty carbs more tunable for radical cams and exhaust. How does it work? Its in the main fuel circuit air bleed. Older S&S Shorty carbs had a fixed air bleed for the main circuit, sized for the best all around performance. Starting October 1, 2003, all Super E and G carbs have a replaceable jet in its place. This allows fine tuning of the main circuit air bleed which determines the rpm at which the main fuel circuit begins to feed fuel. A smaller air bleed causes the main circuit to "come in" at a lower rpm. A larger air bleed causes it to come in at a higher rpm. This can be very useful when tuning high performance systems, which often, exhibit some harmonic reversion problems that inhibit exhaust flow at a specific rpms.
Difference here is that BDM still uses carb bodies that do not include the adjustable airbleed or at least up through 05. Don't know about the latest models. But my 03 and 05 both didnot have the airbleed.

:flag:
 

kkeizer

Member
I also thought I would mention this! I talked to another mechanic and he told me that I need to replace my ignition. He stated that the one in my bike is not that good and that they are not tunable. He also said that I would not be able to get rid of the flat spot or lean spot until I replace the ignition. I don't know if that's true but this has been going on for a week now and I already owe the BD dealer $500 and it's still not fixed!
 

lee

Well-Known Member
I'm not an expert but I don't agree that won't get rid of the flat spot until you change your ignition - learn how to tune your carb and I bet you'll get rid of it
 

kkeizer

Member
Lee, I have my bike at my local BD Dealer and they told me they have done this a lot and that they have been tuning the carb and it will not go away. They also said that they put another G carb on that they had extra and it did the same thing! That is making me believe that it could be my ignition.
 

jwoolf

Well-Known Member
I agree with Lee on this. If the guy was jacking with your carb screws, there's no telling what your carb is doing right now.

Attempt the procedure from the book and, you'll most likely get rid of it.

There could be another problem but, if that's the case, it's your carb or there's something wrong with the intake ( a leak ) or something like that.

The problem is, no doubt, when your carb is changing from int. to primary jets.
 

lee

Well-Known Member
ask your dealer if he took the bowl vent screw out - there have been posts on here (which you need to read thoroughly) where the dealers have never heard of it - and I bet they never read the instructions when they put your intake on either - I have the same intake, I have a S&S G carb, and I had until recently the stock ignition - I never had a flat spot though
 

delly2

Banned
def. the vent screw,you might wanna go back to the 31/76 jets also,but pull the vent screw.. if your looking at the carb on the bike,bend down and look to the left,you have to look from the ground up under the carb,its a allen head screw take it out,if a little fuel drips out its ok just wipe it down,then fire the bike up and try it,let us know...
 

kkeizer

Member
I am currently waiting for my dealer to let me know what a BD tech had to say. He told me today that he was going to call them and see what they had to say about the problem. I will let everyone know what they say. I talked to the other mechanic about 15 minutes ago and he still swears that I need a new ignition. For right now I am going to what and see what BD says and take it from there. I am going to tell my BD dealer about the vent screw tomorrow and see what he says.
 

V

Guru
Just for my own knowledge what is the purpose of pulling the vent screw? What am I venting? My 05 had the E carb, had a G installed and later the 600 cam and springs bike ran great with 31 and 78 jets never took out the vent screw. Also the E that came on the bike did have the adjustable air bleed.:confused:

Thanks V
 

delly2

Banned
vent screw is usally taken out when you have a air filter that sucks alot of air,sometimes its to much and i think it needs to breathe easier when the vent screw is removed.
 
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