Stator plug

Energy One

Johnny3336

New Member
Upgrading the charging system on a 2005 Pitbull and can't get the stator plug out of the case. I loosened the set screw (it only turned about 2 1/2 turns) but the plug isn't budging and am afraid to just ruin it trying to get it out. Any suggestions? Thanks. (In the picture there is still silicone covering it but I dug that out and unscrewed it as far as it would go.)
 

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Jwooky

Well-Known Member
That’s a set screw that is partially blocked the the inner primary. (Terrible design for service)

Unless you can rip / cut it out, you have to remove the inner primary to get to it. I never put them back.

if you do get it out, you can go in the hole with a small grinding wheel and knock off the head.
Put a shop vac on the other side to keep the debris out.
 

Marky-Marc

Well-Known Member
Jwooky is correct, the ONLY way to get it out correctly is to remove the inner primary cover...and I mean CORRECTLY.....and remember, if you force it out, some debris will fall in...it's rubber....and agree, BAD design.....remember, the cable for that plug HAS to be connected to the STATOR...so if you damage the plug....well....you know.....
 

SKOGDOG

One of the old ones.
Blacktopper and I put in a new stator and fixed the stator plug leak in his K9 primary. But his is a 2016 Big Dog with the Harley-style primary. I think much of what I say applies here.
Drain and remove outer primary. Then remove the primary drive chain. We didn’t remove the inner primary, but there sure would be more room if you did—-your call. Get two bolts and screw them into threaded holes in the stator—work it off the spline (do not drop or strike it (EVER). They have strong magnets and I hate screwing with them—once you get them moving a little, they’ll loosen up. Inspect the teeth in the rotor that fit in the spline—the teeth can can get flattened, especially on a high output engine.
To get the rubber plug out out, back out the little Allen—dig the permatex out of the little hole— (oughta call it the clit bcs it’s so hard to find), and use a small flat tip screwdriver to gently free up the little rubber skirt around the base of the wiring plug in the primary—-take your time and don’t damage it. What we did was to then (again using the small flat tip) work around the skirt, pushing it down into the hole. Then we loosened the blob of permatex inside the engine case and pushed the plug down into the case from the outside (flat-nose punch) and pulled the wires (gently) from the inside. A little silicone or WD might help.
Then we really cleaned the hole for the plug. Obsessively….spotless clean aluminum, then scrubbed with a green scotch rite, then cleaned several times with with brake cleaner. Then coated the plug (not globs, but a good coating) with a high quality Permatex. Install from inside the primary, paying attention to not pull it through too far.
Problems will come from the inside, so pay attention to the permatex that was scraped off the plug as you installed it. Leave it in place and smooth any visible gaps. How that plug is sealed INSIDE the engine case determines if it’ll leak or not. Be careful not to pull the plug too far through the hole in the inner primary case, bcs then you’ll have to push it back down to seat that plug’s rubber skirt back down on the primary case. Avoid moving the plug any more than necessary to get the rubber skirt seated on the engine housing. If you screw it up—no worries—push it back through, wipe it off and do it again—the $12 tube of Permatex will harden before you use it all up anyhow!! The worst thing is you’ll be several days getting that black crap from around your fingernails-haha.
Re-install tiny Allen screw-or leave it out as Jwooky says—be sure to clean and seal the hole w/Permatex.
Then—let’s say you were thinking ahead and just snipped the tip off the Permatex tube—you can lay a thin bead around the skirt and smooth it with a finger for a finished look.
Replace outer primary and add oil (I’m using 20 oz. of ATF these days)—DO NOT start the bike!! Leave it to cure for 24 hours.
 
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SKOGDOG

One of the old ones.
Addendum: Be very careful when removing and installing Stator windings. There are four small Allen screws that—all of very low torque. I’ve never overtightened one, but I think you would have big problems if you did.
 
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