Starter weirdness help please.

Energy One

badyellowvette

Active Member
Started the K9 after setting for a couple weeks. Starter kind of grinds lights go out try to start again it might do it again or it might start. Had the side cover last week and the gear looks good. Curtis rebuild it 5 years ago when the shaft broke. Not sure what to look at next. I can rider it just afraid to shut it off until I get home. What is up with starter prices on eBay? There on there for $166 up to Eric and Donna at $299-$349. Thanks
 

gripman01

Member
The first thing I would check is to make sure all battery terminals and wiring to the starter are tight. Are you compression releases working? Try to hold one down manually when you push the button.
Also check your starter button and be sure all the contacts are clean.
After I do all that then I’ll start looking at a starter.


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I have a '07 K9 and mine was doing the same thing. When that grinding starts it'll chew up your gears so try not to start it until you replace the charging system. I had to replace my whole charging system to get it to stop doing that I went through 4 starters with new batteries each time. Ever since I replaced the charging system I haven't had any problems.

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badyellowvette

Active Member
Did a little testing of the charging system today. The battery I bought in September 2019 is charging at 13.75V it pulls down to 10 volts when I engage the starter but it still does that grinding noise when it doesn't engage. The only time it will not do that noise is when I have a charger on the battery and it's showing over 15 volts anything lower and I sometimes get the grind. Starter battery or just a solenoid problem? I had the primary off a couple of weeks ago in the gear looked fine on the starter. I'm not sure what to try next.
 

Mikeinjersey

Well-Known Member
Did a little testing of the charging system today. The battery I bought in September 2019 is charging at 13.75V it pulls down to 10 volts when I engage the starter but it still does that grinding noise when it doesn't engage. The only time it will not do that noise is when I have a charger on the battery and it's showing over 15 volts anything lower and I sometimes get the grind. Starter battery or just a solenoid problem? I had the primary off a couple of weeks ago in the gear looked fine on the starter. I'm not sure what to try next.
Have the battery load tested. It could be failing. It's not a year old yet so maybe it's still under warranty. If you have been charging your battery @ 15vdc it could have been damaged. If the battery checks out good check the contacts on the solenoid. After 5 years they may be burnt and causing the issue. If burnt, Clean or replace them. This basic troubleshooting guide may help.
 

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From what you just explained about your voltage I still say you need a new charging system. That worked for me. I had the same problem but no longer have that problem.

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badyellowvette

Active Member
Have the battery load tested. It could be failing. It's not a year old yet so maybe it's still under warranty. If you have been charging your battery @ 15vdc it could have been damaged. If the battery checks out good check the contacts on the solenoid. After 5 years they may be burnt and causing the issue. If burnt, Clean or replace them. This basic troubleshooting guide may help.
Thanks for the troubleshooting guide. I only charged the battery with a 1 amp motorcycle charger until it reached 14.75 V to see if the problem went away because I noticed that while running the battery voltage was reaching 14 volts and if I shut it off and restarted right away it would not make the grinding noise. So higher volts stops the problem.
 

badyellowvette

Active Member
I have a '07 K9 and mine was doing the same thing. When that grinding starts it'll chew up your gears so try not to start it until you replace the charging system. I had to replace my whole charging system to get it to stop doing that I went through 4 starters with new batteries each time. Ever since I replaced the charging system I haven't had any problems.

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What exactly did you replace in your charging system?
 

Mikeinjersey

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the troubleshooting guide. I only charged the battery with a 1 amp motorcycle charger until it reached 14.75 V to see if the problem went away because I noticed that while running the battery voltage was reaching 14 volts and if I shut it off and restarted right away it would not make the grinding noise. So higher volts stops the problem.
The 14 volts you see when the bike is running is the voltage from the VR and 14 is good. The voltage you see when the bike is not running should be 12.8 or a little higher.
It seems your charging system is working OK but your battery could be weak and not holding a charge like it should. Get the load test done to be sure. Keep in mind Volts and Current (amps) are two different things. Amps is a measurement of power. For instance, the same 12v is required to light your lights as is the 12 volts for your starter. The difference is the amount of AMPS required to turn your Starter is very high and to light your lights the requirement is very low. That's why your lights will still come on even though the starter won't turn.
 

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
Did a little testing of the charging system today. The battery I bought in September 2019 is charging at 13.75V it pulls down to 10 volts when I engage the starter but it still does that grinding noise when it doesn't engage. The only time it will not do that noise is when I have a charger on the battery and it's showing over 15 volts anything lower and I sometimes get the grind. Starter battery or just a solenoid problem? I had the primary off a couple of weeks ago in the gear looked fine on the starter. I'm not sure what to try next.
13.75 at idle? Give it throttle and test again like 2k RPM it should be over 14v.
 

badyellowvette

Active Member
Does anybody know what the inside of the solenoid should look like? The copper contacts are really rough which I'm thinking they're supposed to look like. I mean like 60 grit sandpaper. What is in a solenoid rebuild kit?
 

knothead

Second Chance Customs
Comes with contacts, plunger and bolts....05 and up kits come with the starter clutch also....HDM has the kits which is 100.00 for the 05 and up

You can sand ur old contacts and plunger so the surface is smooth again and try that first....
 

badyellowvette

Active Member
Comes with contacts, plunger and bolts....05 and up kits come with the starter clutch also....HDM has the kits which is 100.00 for the 05 and up

You can sand ur old contacts and plunger so the surface is smooth again and try that first....
So the contacts are supposed to be smooth? I was thinking something didn't look right
 

Mastiff Rider64

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Thanks for the troubleshooting guide. I only charged the battery with a 1 amp motorcycle charger until it reached 14.75 V to see if the problem went away because I noticed that while running the battery voltage was reaching 14 volts and if I shut it off and restarted right away it would not make the grinding noise. So higher volts stops the problem.
Sounds like you solved the problem...the battery is weak. Youve said so in your previous post. 13.75v when you hit start button drops to 10 volts. Honestly that seems a bit low for these high compression engines. Even with the compression release if your battery is throwing everything it has to energize the starter, and as you said lights go off, you dont have enough juice left to energize the compression releases if you dont have enough power to keep the lights on. It could be a connection as perviously stated. Loose connections cause higher resistance, higher resistance causes current to shoot up to pass thru the resistance leaving no current to power up other electronics. Load test the battery any advance or auto zone can do so, if the vattery comes back good, check your connections, if they are all good then move to starter. Could be windings going bad, could be the solenoid going bad. But if it is you got 5 years from Curtis rebuild you could do that again or donna and eric are good ppl and stand behind their equipment they sell. And honestly 300 for a chrome 2.0k starter isnt a bad price. These are special starters not like buying a 180 dollar one that they made 250,000 vechiles that that starter will fit. They are cheaper because they know they are going to sell a shit ton of them. These are a little more expensive because they last a really long time, they are chrome and they are using not so cheap parts in them like the 180 dollar ones.
And yes the copper contacts should be smooth, they provide the current to the armature to create the magnetic field to turn the starter over. If they are rough then you may have had some arching going on while trying to start it. Sand them down and see if it clears up. But remember if your battery is still dropping to 10 volts when trying to crank the bike with no charger on it that your battery is weak also. Like i said connections, battery then starter. You found starter problems but what caused them could be back up the line somewhere.
 
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knothead

Second Chance Customs
So the contacts are supposed to be smooth? I was thinking something didn't look right
Yes they are smooth....overtime they get arc marks so this will make them no get good contact plus cause a click when you hit the start button....sometimes they will evem stick together and no disengage cause the arc marks.....low voltage on the battery will also cause the arc marks....always remember it takes just as much voltage to disengage a starter as it does to make it engage
 

Mikeinjersey

Well-Known Member
Does anybody know what the inside of the solenoid should look like? The copper contacts are really rough which I'm thinking they're supposed to look like. I mean like 60 grit sandpaper. What is in a solenoid rebuild kit?
Check this link out to see what it should look like.https://www.bigdogpartskingpin.com/products/big-dog-motorcycles-starter-solenoid-rebuild-kit-all-2005-2011-models
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
With a set of battery jumpers, note the saw tooth points and make sure they are not crusty white upon transfer [use], are not dirty/rusty/like such. That's 4 clean ends to clamp to:
1. Trans.
2. Frame.
3. Braided steel strap... if applies... or another frame ground, wink-wink, where the paint chip was left in the other state, stab the patina.
4. Engine.

You had 13.75, and it lowered to 10v. With the grounds, you might see it drop to 11v say. Shows a better ground can be had, right?
 

badyellowvette

Active Member
Checked all connections and ordered a solenoid rebuild to start. Might get a new battery also. Funny this all started when I put an LED headlight bulb in, they do us less voltage don't they?
 
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