Starter Removal on 99 BD PRO sport

WildBillNick

WildBillNick

Member
I'm trying to remove the starter & Solenoid from my 99 BD Por Sport.
I have the wires disconnected and the two mounting bolts. However, I cannot get it to slide out. It's loose and I have rotated it but acts as if it's hung. I'm probably missing something about the removal. Can someone give me an idea as to how to get the starter out? Would greatly appreciate some assist.

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WildBillNick

WildBillNick

Member
Thanks! I figured such but wasn't for sure. I removed the end cover from the Solenoid and it is really dirty inside with the copper dust, and the contacts are pretty worn. The larger one is a little bent and the copper washer is pitted pretty badly too. Already have replacement parts ordered from Kingpin. Thanks again will let ya know the outcome. Will down load that manual.
BIll

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WildBillNick

WildBillNick

Member
WildBillNick said:
Thanks! I figured such but wasn't for sure. I removed the end cover from the Solenoid and it is really dirty inside with the copper dust, and the contacts are pretty worn. The larger one is a little bent and the copper washer is pitted pretty badly too. Already have replacement parts ordered from Kingpin. Thanks again will let ya know the outcome. Will down load that manual.
BIll

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Wow, i installed the Solenoid repair kit due to the copper contacts were really worn, the plunger copper ring was pitted badly and replaced spring with new one on the plunger. Cleaned all the dirt and copper residue out of it & Put rear cover back on the solenoid. Did a bench test and starter/solenoid worked fine. Kicked out and spun up fine. So I put starter back on bike and tightened downincluding GRD Wire. Put Jack shaft & starter gear on & tightened. Before putting primary covered on, I was going to bump it over just to make sure the starter would kick over. Hooked up grd wire to battery, then attempted to hook up POS cable to battery and holy crap, it shorted and smoked instantly. So it shorted out. Right now am at a loss as to what is shorted.

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Mikeinjersey

Mikeinjersey

Well-Known Member
WildBillNick said:
Wow, i installed the Solenoid repair kit due to the copper contacts were really worn, the plunger copper ring was pitted badly and replaced spring with new one on the plunger. Cleaned all the dirt and copper residue out of it & Put rear cover back on the solenoid. Did a bench test and starter/solenoid worked fine. Kicked out and spun up fine. So I put starter back on bike and tightened downincluding GRD Wire. Put Jack shaft & starter gear on & tightened. Before putting primary covered on, I was going to bump it over just to make sure the starter would kick over. Hooked up grd wire to battery, then attempted to hook up POS cable to battery and holy crap, it shorted and smoked instantly. So it shorted out. Right now am at a loss as to what is shorted.

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I can't say with any certainty but my guess is that since the starter worked on the bench you must have reconnected the starter incorrectly or it was locked up and you pushed the issue for too long. Nothing should have happened at all until you hit the start button. Pull the starter and look for what got damaged. Keep in mind that anytime you do electrical work with a battery in the circuit always disconnect the ground side first and when reconnecting always connect the ground last.
 
WildBillNick

WildBillNick

Member
Ok. Will pull it back off again and check the solenoid and bench test it once again. Will let you know the outcome. Tks!
Bill

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WildBillNick

WildBillNick

Member
Well to follow up, I removed the starter / solenoid again, bench tested it and nothing would happen, meaning the Solinoid would not kick in. So took end cover off solenoid & plunger had a small piece of slag on the end edge and also a piece of slag not allowing the plunger to move.
Took a fine piece of sand paper and smoothed off the slag from the plunger. Used a small honing tool to ream the other small slag inside the solenoid. Used the honing tool and drill because the hole is not big enough to get your finger and Emory cloth into. Got it smoothed down so the plunger would Ingage freely. Got it put back together and it worked. Reinstalled starter/solenoid, primary cover & oil into primary etc. starter will work but not Everytime which sometimes just spins maybe twice and then kicks in and turns engine over.
Other prob is, it won't start. I drained fuel from tanks, and fuel line & carb bowl. Put fresh gas in and still won't start. Checked plugs and looked good. However, I checked to see if it was getting fire through spark plugs and no fire. So now I need to check that issue. All lights , blinkers, dash lights work & replaced relay that sits behind battery box as well. But still no fire from coil to spark plugs. Will have to trace that out.

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Mickmorris

Mickmorris

Well Known Member
Supporting Member
WildBillNick said:
Well to follow up, I removed the starter / solenoid again, bench tested it and nothing would happen, meaning the Solinoid would not kick in. So took end cover off solenoid & plunger had a small piece of slag on the end edge and also a piece of slag not allowing the plunger to move.
Took a fine piece of sand paper and smoothed off the slag from the plunger. Used a small honing tool to ream the other small slag inside the solenoid. Used the honing tool and drill because the hole is not big enough to get your finger and Emory cloth into. Got it smoothed down so the plunger would Ingage freely. Got it put back together and it worked. Reinstalled starter/solenoid, primary cover & oil into primary etc. starter will work but not Everytime which sometimes just spins maybe twice and then kicks in and turns engine over.
Other prob is, it won't start. I drained fuel from tanks, and fuel line & carb bowl. Put fresh gas in and still won't start. Checked plugs and looked good. However, I checked to see if it was getting fire through spark plugs and no fire. So now I need to check that issue. All lights , blinkers, dash lights work & replaced relay that sits behind battery box as well. But still no fire from coil to spark plugs. Will have to trace that out.

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Man if it ain’t one thing it’s another. Check your coil 1st.Pretty easy to do & will rule that out as a culprit.
 
WildBillNick

WildBillNick

Member
Disconnected everything from coil. Showed 3 ohms and then dropped to 2.9. checked at where the spark plug wires plug in and it read 11.3 k Ohms. Cleaned the input primary input terminals as well.

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Mickmorris

Mickmorris

Well Known Member
Supporting Member
To test:
1 disconnect cam sensor from ignition module.
2 set multi meter to RX1 scale
3 now touch NEG lead to sensor backing plate then with the POS lead touch each of the 3 wires (red/black/green)
4 if you get continuity from the backing plate to any of them - the sensor is BAD
If it passes this test lmk. Then you can test the other side.
 
Mickmorris

Mickmorris

Well Known Member
Supporting Member
WildBillNick said:
Disconnected everything from coil. Showed 3 ohms and then dropped to 2.9. checked at where the spark plug wires plug in and it read 11.3 k Ohms. Cleaned the input primary input terminals as well.

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3 ohm coil shouldn’t ever be below 3 ohms it should actually always be above it a little. Double check it. Spark plug side looks good.
 
WildBillNick

WildBillNick

Member
Mickmorris, sorry it took so long to check this stuff out. Been working on as I can.

Pulled coil off and rechecked it today. Showed 3 ohms. 11.6 at the spark plug outlets.

Did the check from the cam sensor back plate with Neg probe on back plate and POS probe on each wire, red, green, and black. Showed NO continuity. Check was good but noticed just a little of the brown silicon or glue melted and ran down in the sensor housing off of that sensor. The sensor still looked ok and not burnt or scorched.
Checked the stator again and got NO reading at the stator plug and ground. And none probing both pins on the stator plug.


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Mickmorris

Mickmorris

Well Known Member
Supporting Member
So now check the cam sensor with your meter still in RX1 setting. Touch the positive lead to the green wire & negative to the black wire. If it shows open it’s good. Then touch the positive lead to the black wire & touch the negative lead to the green, in this case an open is bad. Should be reading between 300-750k ohms. See what ya got.
 
WildBillNick

WildBillNick

Member
Ok, positive lead to to green wire & negative lead to black wire shows open(no reading)
Positive lead to black wire & Negative lead to green wire showed reading of 651K ohms.

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