Starter help

[The idea guy]

I'm working on an 09 K9 with electrical issues (surprise, surprise). I've got the starter off to bench test and re-insulate the cable running between the solenoid and the starter motor. So the first thing I do is put a continuity tester on all of the contacts. With one lead to the motor housing at the mounting bolt hole, these are my findings
1. Starter positive stud = open circuit
2. Connection for green wire = open circuit
3. Stud on side of starter motor = closed circuit
4. Cable coming out of solenoid = closed circuit

This was done with the cable from the solenoid disconnected.
I'm pretty sure there should not be continuity from ground to the solenoid cable or the stud that it bolts onto. If I'm correct that would indicate the starter is tits-up.
Can anyone please tell me if that stud and cable should be an open or closed circuit?

 

[The idea guy]

I should probably include these findings as well.
5. Starter positive stud to second stud on starter motor = open circuit
6. Starter positive stud to cable from solenoid = open circuit.

 

[chubs]

You might try hooking up a set of jumper cables to a known good battery. Connect the positive cable to the positive post on the starter, and connect the negative cable to the starter body, Then use a jumper wire to connect the terminal that the green trigger wire normally hooks to and then touch the other end of that jumper wire to the positive post. That should energize the solenoid and make the starter spin. That's how I've bench tested starters.




























9

 

[Sven]

You want to run a 'sacrificial nut' on the posi lead. if not lock washer under it so no threads at the nut end. It's just a straight shot on the nut and hold down once you commit.

Jumper points:
Both on the battery obviously.
Ground on the top mount hole.
Posi in the hand. Other hand holding the body of the motor.
Tap the posi cable to the nut. It's going to arc both on and off and it's DC so don't flinch is I'm sure you've been around DC sparks.

The guess:
2 closed
2 open
Once it's magnetized, open meets closed? Full loop equal sides? Motor should spin?

 

[Jersey Big Mike]

I'm working on an 09 K9 with electrical issues (surprise, surprise). I've got the starter off to bench test and re-insulate the cable running between the solenoid and the starter motor. So the first thing I do is put a continuity tester on all of the contacts. With one lead to the motor housing at the mounting bolt hole, these are my findings
1. Starter positive stud = open circuit
2. Connection for green wire = open circuit
3. Stud on side of starter motor = closed circuit
4. Cable coming out of solenoid = closed circuit
5. Starter positive stud to second stud on starter motor = open circuit
6. Starter positive stud to cable from solenoid = open circuit.

1 - Ok -- that's the input to the "switch" that's activated by solenoid or slam button
2 - This is worriesome as that is the input to the coil to trigger the solenoid and should read the resistance of the coil -- Maybe change scale on meter
3 - Ok -- you are reading the resistance of the starter motor windings.
4 - Ok - as above.
5 - OK - this is both side of the "switch"
6 - OK - same as above.

 

[The idea guy]

I'm fairly certain that #2 should be normally open. When you hit the starter button it energizes that circuit and is essentially a relay to the starter. The ones that primarily concerned me were #3&4. I was surprised that they would have continuity to ground. But it makes sense that the positive power would enter through lead #1 and pass to a ground (#3&4) to complete the circuit.

 

[Jersey Big Mike]

I'm fairly certain that #2 should be normally open. When you hit the starter button it energizes that circuit and is essentially a relay to the starter. The ones that primarily concerned me were #3&4. I was surprised that they would have continuity to ground. But it makes sense that the positive power would enter through lead #1 and pass to a ground (#3&4) to complete the circuit.

#2 is the power input to a solenoid -- ie a coil, the other side needs to be grounded to energize it. Since it only has ONE exposed lead that we know recieves 12V on start, the ground MUST be attached to caseing and therefore should have some resistance. Double check it and reverse the leads on your meter.