starter help

bigchazz

Member
2005 Pitbull. Starter engages for a second, but not long enough to start, not clicking .tries to start, then stops, tries then stops....on and on......ANY help on to what to check ?, or is it time for a new starter.
THANKS for any advice....
 
Is it turning over?
Check your battery. May not have enough juice to get it to turn over.
If that is not the case it could be a lot of other things based on the details you provided.
 

Little-Boo

Well-Known Member
Troop Supporter
Pull your spark plugs and try to start the bike. If it turn over fast then the starter should be good to go. If it turns over slow your starter may be dragging and need new bushings. However, if its fast with no plug then will need a battery with more Huebos (More Balls)

Carlos
 

BWG56

Guru
Not to high jack this thread but it is a starter question. Sometimes when I hit the start button I get a BANG. I have replaced the starter in the past and after a couple of these the starter housing breaks. I lube the CR's regularly
 

Little-Boo

Well-Known Member
Troop Supporter
Its hard to say why it would bang unless the starter is loose. If it was alignment it would sheer off the teeth on the starter drive and/or the Flywheel, but it wouldn't bang. Some times when the alignment is off the starter drive locks up on to the flywheel and keeps on turning even though the motor is running. I would think banging would be associated with something loose inside the starter housing or loose starter. I like to use red Loctite on all parts that are attached to the motor or frame due to all the vibration. Very interesting if you ever find out what is causing that bang please let us know.
 

BWG56

Guru
This is the 3rd starter and it broke the mount on 1 and the housing on another everything was always tight when I removed them. It might only do this once every 20-25 starts. It reminds me of the older bikes that were kick start, once in awhile it would kick back. After the bang I have to hit the run/start button again cause its dead, meaning its not spinning, and it fires right up.
I'm thinking even though I lube the CR's, sometimes they don't work.
 

Coolbreezin

Active Member
BWG56 - I was breaking jackshafts regularly the first couple years I had my bike. It was determined the inner primary case was not cut perfectly and the little hole for the shaft to go through into the primary was off a few degrees, allowing the shaft to wiggle when I hit the Start button. After 11 starter swaps and a few jackshaft replacements I bought a slam button from Kapt. Never had another problem.
 

bigchazz

Member
Thanks guys, I will pull the plugs and see what happens.....I hope its as simple as more Huebos..:) If not, any recommendations on which battery to spring for?
 

Little-Boo

Well-Known Member
Troop Supporter
Thanks guys, I will pull the plugs and see what happens.....I hope its as simple as more Huebos..:) If not, any recommendations on which battery to spring for?
This is what I use, everyone has their own opinion on Batteries. I prefer this one cause its a light weight Car Battery with 465 Cold Crank Huebos :)

http://www.tomiokaracing.com/index....t-batteries/tr-b1500-lightweight-battery.html

The design allows the battery to be mounted in a variety of positions and to accept automotive terminals vertically and horizontally. Included with each TR Battery are high quality brass SAE terminals, designed to distribute the electrical load battery for high amperage, high stress use of racing and audio applications..

Carlos
 

bigchazz

Member
OK, so I sprung for a Tomioka battery, thanks Little Boo....went to there site, filled out the request, Big Dog...etc. came yesterday, my bad, I didn't measure, I just assumed. The new batt is 1/2 in too wide. I think I could make it work......but, I really don't want to force it. Anyway, while apart I noticed loose connections on the positive side, broken lead to battery tender (its hard wired) and also the positive side post looks a little melted? soooo, I fixed the broken lead, filed up the post on the positive side best as can be and also took apart and cleaned the solenoid, tightened everything and BAM, fires right up. BUT, now the pcb switch will not kill the bike,:eek: I have to use the key....any suggestions? or is it that serious? and yes, I will exchange the battery for a correct size.....THANKS for any help.
 

Little-Boo

Well-Known Member
Troop Supporter
How bout it Little Boo.....what's your thoughts?
Well you got it going now you want to stop that :eek: :oldlaugh: :oldlaugh:. I would say take the PCB apart and clean it as well. Use a pencil eraser to clean the contacts and see it that works. It not I would continue to use the key to shut her off. That is how I shut mine off. I never use the Stop Button on the PCB. If you insist on using the Stop button on the PCB and cleaning don't help. Get ready to dish out about $200. for a set of PC boards. :old2:

Carlos :whoop:
 

bigchazz

Member
Thanks for your reply little-boo.......BUT, I have recently replaced the PCB because of hitting the start and getting intermitted results. Soooo, I have no issue with stopping it by the key IF it causes no harm down the road. I would rather not pull the PCB apart again, I had a hell of a time with the front brake light pin.....new battery now, cleaned the solenoid, am I missing anything ?......BIG thanks, this is a great place for info and support.
 
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