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Energy One
I went out the bike started right up .Went for a ride for a few hours came home parked the bike in my driveway went back out a couple hours later to put the bike away it wouldn't start only the flashers came on I tested the battery and it test good

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Sven

Well-Known Member
Just my take on the black box, meaning, you have nothing to loose trying this. Pull the neg battery cable. Tighten/check the posi cable for integrity. Turn key on, step on brake pedal; pull brake lever; pull clutch in (if there is a safety switch); turn the winker switch left and right; flip the high beam on and off; toggle the kill a few times...

... Key off; neg battery cable back on; start bike. Short of pulling the black box, find the ground pin and sweep all the pins times 3 to empty each RAM in hiding, one thing at a time-in other words.

Capacitor on motherboard = Holds the last known RAM (temporary memory) vs. Startup.
Binary Speak = A computer bike starts at zero (0000) vs. ROM (read this if RAM is lost from a capacitor).
Startup = Good known value saved in capacitor starts bike. If a Signal [means the same as value] is out of range it means a no-start. A bad known signal is a no-start. Thus, ground the saved value that shows a no start scenario. No guarantee here, just walking up to a computer bike and see if RAM saves the day.
 
Thank you for the info I'll give it a try
Just my take on the black box, meaning, you have nothing to loose trying this. Pull the neg battery cable. Tighten/check the posi cable for integrity. Turn key on, step on brake pedal; pull brake lever; pull clutch in (if there is a safety switch); turn the winker switch left and right; flip the high beam on and off; toggle the kill a few times...

... Key off; neg battery cable back on; start bike. Short of pulling the black box, find the ground pin and sweep all the pins times 3 to empty each RAM in hiding, one thing at a time-in other words.

Capacitor on motherboard = Holds the last known RAM (temporary memory) vs. Startup.
Binary Speak = A computer bike starts at zero (0000) vs. ROM (read this if RAM is lost from a capacitor).
Startup = Good known value saved in capacitor starts bike. If a Signal [means the same as value] is out of range it means a no-start. A bad known signal is a no-start. Thus, ground the saved value that shows a no start scenario. No guarantee here, just walking up to a computer bike and see if RAM saves the day.
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Thank you for the info I'll give it a try

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After the bike didn't start I let it sit for a few days I went out today just to see what would happen the bike started right up I didn't put the bike on any type of charge I'm really confused the bike starts when it wants to

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Jersey Big Mike

100K mile club
After the bike didn't start I let it sit for a few days I went out today just to see what would happen the bike started right up I didn't put the bike on any type of charge I'm really confused the bike starts when it wants to

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Silly question -- what was the temp when it failed and when it worked?
Both my EHC's failed when they got cold (40F-45F)
Day would warm up and they'd start like nothing ever happened.
 
I have had the same issue. It only happens about once a month. I have checked all the connections, It's still a mystery. After a few attempts it works just like nothing happened
 
I think the temp fell to about 30 and it was 50 went it started back up
Silly question -- what was the temp when it failed and when it worked?
Both my EHC's failed when they got cold (40F-45F)
Day would warm up and they'd start like nothing ever happened.
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Jersey Big Mike

100K mile club
I think the temp fell to about 30 and it was 50 went it started back up

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ok, next time if it's cold when it fails, get a heat gun or hair dryer and warm up the ehc a little bit (less than 2 minutes and be gentle -- take longer rather than burn/fry anything)
If it starts after it warms up, I'd highly recommend replacing the EHC.

I had one night that the temp dropped and the bike didn't want to start that I actually used 1 gallon of HOT WATER that I poured slowly over the EHC (I know - Water to fix an Electrical problem on an Air coolled bike -- the irony!) Soon as that was done bike fired right up. Don't know who was more amazed, my crew or the guys from the pizza place that were all watching after my buddy went in to get the hot water.
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
... the bike started right up I didn't put the bike on any type of charge I'm really confused the bike starts when it wants to
Thanks for the followup and answering my way of studying the saved phantom out of range value in a capacitor. The black box only works one way.

Welcome to Reboot Mode. I don't see it working any other way are the hard parts vs. processing. Key OFF is the flow to ground to erase RAM. You made a smart move walking away from the bike. You changed nothing walking back up to it. The saved value was lost. The bike starts at zero. I'm not confused if I think the same as loosing the radio channels saved. The cable box needing a reboot. The computer tower/laptop firing up for the start of the day. Make sense they all use most of the same hardware = Capacitor?
 

awg

Guru
Your first post you mentioned you were out riding. Then a few hours later it wouldn't start. Would the temperature have dropped that much in a couple of hours for it not to start? With the flashers coming on it's a classic sign of a battery.
 
That's probably what it is I'm getting a new battery this week
Your first post you mentioned you were out riding. Then a few hours later it wouldn't start. Would the temperature have dropped that much in a couple of hours for it not to start? With the flashers coming on it's a classic sign of a battery.
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Sven

Well-Known Member
I'm only following what info is brought in... Diagnostic wise, the paraphrase goes: "I did not charge the battery, I just came back out a few days later and it started back up." Can't be a battery if it starts back up without even charging the battery. It makes no sense to me, short of a spin of the crank to reissue a good known value out of the crank sensor. Hey, but WATT do I know. Year wasting your money if said part still has a fairly new batt thrown at it a few years ago. Only a load test knows for sure.

Signed,
NOLTT (no one listens to turtle)
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
The short answer is no. Example: I charge a battery and it reads 13.2v right off the charger. Next day I check, it is down to 12.8v or well charged. 12.4v is time to charge it back up. I again pull up the theory of E cannot be separated via heat/chemRe. Heat wise, the battery is losing voltage in this environment. Cool environment, the battery slows down the daily loss.
 
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