someone please help the novice

[Long Island]

Hello all again. Yes, I'm lost. :bang: I have only had my '04 Ridgeback for a couple of weeks now and rode it about three wonderful times. My dumb ass thought that it would be good to put a fresh battery into her being that I didn't know how old the one she had was. Sort of preemptive maintenance. During which my socket wrench grounded out the positive terminal to the module with the single red light. This module is still good (I brought it to a friends house who has a '04 Bulldog and we switched his with mine- on his bike-and his started right up). Mine doesn't try to start unless I press the run and start button at the same time. Then it will crank but not start. I pushed the plunger by the starter in and it would also crank but not start. It's getting gas but no spark and the red light on that module will not light up or flicker while trying anything. I ordered the PDM kit from BDMPP and it should ship out in a week. I'm getting worried that it may be something else and I'll install the PDM and it will still not start at which point I will really go nuts. The crank sensor looked as new. I will try to test it today. Being a newbe can you be more specific ( in stead of saying "test this" could you say "put one test lead on your neg. battery terminal and the other on the red wire coming out of your....)
Oh... when the bike wouldn't start I tried jump starting it.....I know...bad idea. :bang:

 

[bigdogtech01]

Sounds like CPS (cam position sensor) is bad.

 

[DRBarnhart]

The crank sensor looked as new.

First of all you have a cam position sensor! :bang:

I will try to test it today. Being a newbe can you be more specific ( in stead of saying "test this" could you say "put one test lead on your neg. battery terminal and the other on the red wire coming out of your....)

I've posted this before and I'll be happy to post it again...

1. Disconnect the cam sensor from the ignition module.

2. Take out your trusty multimeter and set it to the RX1 scale.

3. Now while touching the sensor backing plate with the negative meter lead touch the positive meter lead on each of the three wires of the sensor connector (red, black, & green). If you get continuity from the backing plate to any of them the sensor is bad.

If it passes the first test...

1. With your meter still at the same settings touch the positive meter lead to the green wire and the negative meter lead to the black wire. If you get an "open" it's good. (Any resistance is "bad")

2. Then take the positive meter lead and touch the black sensor wire while touching the negative meter lead to the green wire. In this case an "open" is bad. A reading somewhere around 300 - 750 Kohms is what you're looking for.

So what values did you get in each step?

Dennis

 

[Long Island]

Okay. I finally have the time to check my cam position sensor.
How many dumb questions do we get before we get banned? Lol
The meter that I have from a buddy to check this doesn't have a rx1 setting. (See photo) which one do I use?

 

[RCAdd1ct]

Okay. I finally have the time to check my cam position sensor.
How many dumb questions do we get before we get banned? Lol
The meter that I have from a buddy to check this doesn't have a rx1 setting. (See photo) which one do I use?

First test where it is set in the picture. The meter beeping is bad.

Second test 2k.

 

[DRBarnhart]

First test where it is set in the picture. The meter beeping is bad.

Second test 2k.

:2thumbs:

Dennis

 

[Long Island]

The 1st test I don't get any beeping. The 2nd test the meter doesn't read anything. Am I to take the sensor off the engine first or only disconnect it as I did?

 

[DRBarnhart]

Oops, my bad! For the second test you're looking for any resistance in step 1. and 300-750 Kohms in step 2. so you'll need to switch your meter to the 2M setting. :bang:

Dennis

 

[RCAdd1ct]

Oops, my bad! For the second test you're looking for any resistance in step 1. and 300-750 Kohms in step 2. so you'll need to switch your meter to the 2M setting. :bang:

Dennis

Doh!

Now I know why I like my fluke so much.

 

[Long Island]

Ok.
First test of the three wires, one at a time to the backing plate = no buzz
The first part of the second tests = meter just stayed at 1.
The last test of the second part = 505
Does this mean that it's good?
I guess I'm glad that I ordered the PDM kit.

 

[RCAdd1ct]

Ok.
First test of the three wires, one at a time to the backing plate = no buzz
The first part of the second tests = meter just stayed at 1.
The last test of the second part = 505
Does this mean that it's good?
I guess I'm glad that I ordered the PDM kit.

Can we get some pix?

 

[Long Island]

What do you want to see?

 

[DRBarnhart]

Ok.
First test of the three wires, one at a time to the backing plate = no buzz
The first part of the second tests = meter just stayed at 1.
The last test of the second part = 505
Does this mean that it's good?
I guess I'm glad that I ordered the PDM kit.

That would suggest the cam sensor is good. And you said the ignition module is good.

Have you checked to see if you have 12V and a ground going to the ignition module?

Dennis

 

[Long Island]

no, I have not. But only because I'm not really sure how to do that. This is my module (see pic) Which connection do I check? Thanks for the help.

 

[DRBarnhart]

With the module disconnected from the bike, turn the key ON then hit the RUN button. There should be 12V as measured between the black and the red wires of the 4 pin connector on the bike side. Using the same setup there should be 12V at the coil from the red wire to ground.

Dennis

PS Your meter should be set to the "20" in the DCV scale (about the 1 o'clock position).

 

[Long Island]

I get 9.75v on the black/red 4 pin connection. At the coil I have 10.10v
When I checked the red/black 4 pin connection I had zero until I turned the key. I got the 9.75v as soon as I turned the key and the stop/run button didn't change it.
The battery has low 13's. I think it was 13.10. Just disconnected the battery tender before the test.

 

[Long Island]

I really appreciate all the help. When all is fine in my dog world I promise to make a good sized donation to this site. It is worth it and I'm so glad that y'all are around.

 

[DRBarnhart]

I get 9.75v on the black/red 4 pin connection. At the coil I have 10.10v
When I checked the red/black 4 pin connection I had zero until I turned the key. I got the 9.75v as soon as I turned the key and the stop/run button didn't change it.
The battery has low 13's. I think it was 13.10. Just disconnected the battery tender before the test.

You should have 12V at both places when you hit the RUN button. That' means either your STOP/RUN button isn't doing its job or the EHC is having issues or there's a problem with the wiring in between.

Just wondering, have you disconnected the EHC connector and cleaned it up?

Dennis

 

[Long Island]

Yes, I did. How do I go about checking/testing my run/start button? I posted this very same question in the help wanted yesterday with no real replies yet

 

[Shady Dog]

I can't imagine what that Snap-on meter cost!