Solenoid wire connection
- Thread starter BDCU
- Start date
The red crimp connector still in the relay, the photo looks like there is a black wire cover over the green wire. That black cover sheath rides up and the photo at the bottom breaks the path. So if there is a sheath over the green wire, pull it off the green wire. Does that green wire reach the other bare wire end?
BDCU
Member
Sven, the green wire connected to the solenoid shown in the first photo always had the black sheath and it is continuous. It's the end shown in the second photo that was pulled out and I cannot find where it would get connected to. BTW, the blue wire with the connection sleeve also shown in the second photo is not the wire it attaches to.
The green solenoid wire comes from the EHC. Can't imagine it could be pulled out of the plug for the EHC. Did you take the wire off the solenoid, and use an ohm meter to check that is the same wire?
BDCU
Member
Thanks for your help, Wright. The solenoid wire came loose at the solenoid connection, and since the wire was loosely dangling, it probably got caught in the drive belt and pulled out of the EHC.
To fix it, I had to take the EHC units off (Circuit Fault image), disassembled Connector A (Pin Identification image), and pushed pin A-1 out. It was clear that the wire had broken off, so I used a 1/6" diameter drill bit and drilled out the remaining wire that was still in the pin since it was secured in place because of the method the bike builders use of pinching the sides of the pin.
I then ran the wire back through the harness to Connector A and inserted about 3/8" of the solenoid wire (shown in the photo "solenoid disconnect" in my original post), into the pin, and pinching the sides with pliers to hold it firmly in place. I then pushed pin A-1 back into the connector and reassembled everything. Started right up.
To fix it, I had to take the EHC units off (Circuit Fault image), disassembled Connector A (Pin Identification image), and pushed pin A-1 out. It was clear that the wire had broken off, so I used a 1/6" diameter drill bit and drilled out the remaining wire that was still in the pin since it was secured in place because of the method the bike builders use of pinching the sides of the pin.
I then ran the wire back through the harness to Connector A and inserted about 3/8" of the solenoid wire (shown in the photo "solenoid disconnect" in my original post), into the pin, and pinching the sides with pliers to hold it firmly in place. I then pushed pin A-1 back into the connector and reassembled everything. Started right up.
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Nice save, glad you're up and running
Good call. So if I can jack the thread, BD, this is an ehc as opposed to the other unit that replaces this one? This ehc is a nice layout, so my questions are to either of you. On the chart, 1 says 'EFI constant power'. So are we saying this is a constantly hot box with key off, or does it self turn off after so many minutes?
1. Are we experiencing current draw due to this constantly being hot?
2. And if this is the most failed OEM box, the replacement unit has the same pin designation so it's just a simple plug in?
3. And is the replacement black box also a constant on scenario or turns off with the key?
4. And this is EFI carb'd with the only sensor to the box is a throttle position sensor on the carb?
Thank you.
1. Are we experiencing current draw due to this constantly being hot?
2. And if this is the most failed OEM box, the replacement unit has the same pin designation so it's just a simple plug in?
3. And is the replacement black box also a constant on scenario or turns off with the key?
4. And this is EFI carb'd with the only sensor to the box is a throttle position sensor on the carb?
Thank you.