SHOW ME YOUR SPARK-PLUGS

[Dragonslave]

The jets are 5/16-24 threads.
17/64 bit, drill through to the passage beneath.
Carefully tap the hole and your good to go.
Alternately you could simply drill the air bleed hole to 3/64 which would give you a .05 air bleed also.
Either way use grease to catch all the debris.

Thanks Curtis! I will give this a try and show pics of the plugs. I rode yesterday for abou 80 miles on the new plugs with my same jets but didnt get a chance to pull them and post the pics. I will do it this afternoon.

 

[Dragonslave]

The rear plug is burning super lean.
Likely due to an intake leak.
Once that is fixed it looks as though you are running rich at idle and lean elsewhere.

I know I'm running very lean now. The pic below are after 80 miles yesterday. The left plug is the front! It appears since I fixed the intake leak the lean plug changed from the rear to the front. I set my carb up according to the S&S instructions. Should I go ahead and replace the jets before adjusting my carb? Once I get ready to test again should I use new plugs?

 

[francoblay1]

Lean for sure,,, what jets are you running again? and what Altitude are you at??

You should be running 32 Int. / 76 or 78 Main

 

[Dragonslave]

Lean for sure,,, what jets are you running again? and what Altitude are you at??

You should be running 32 Int. / 76 or 78 Main

These were in my bike when I bought it.
78-main
36-int
.040-air bleed (would have to drill if needed bigger)

Alt is 240 meters

 

[KaptinAmerika]

Drop to a 34, go up to an 80 and go with a .05 bleed
I would also highly recommend you stop putting so many miles on her until you get this fixed as there is no way your doing your motor any good running that lean for that many miles.

 

[Dragonslave]

Drop to a 34, go up to an 80 and go with a .05 bleed
I would also highly recommend you stop putting so many miles on her until you get this fixed as there is no way your doing your motor any good running that lean for that many miles.

10-4. I will re-jet and post pics of the new plugs.

 

[francoblay1]

Any mods in your engine? 32- 78 and 60 airbleed (with the Bowl Vent Plug Offf) should be ok at your altitude..........

I eneded up at 31 -78 (60 Air Bleed) at sea level. Obviously every bike is a diferent animal... but....

 

[francoblay1]

How do you ride? Open throttle / High revs? or like Ker(sorry Bro, couldn't help myself)? sweet sweet? No kidding, that's important too.,,, If you go Hard On... you must have that Main Jet up to it. here Curtis is right... if that is your style go to an 80........

Interesting thread for sure... keep us posted.

 

[liferider]

Drop to a 34, go up to an 80 and go with a .05 bleed
I would also highly recommend you stop putting so many miles on her until you get this fixed as there is no way your doing your motor any good running that lean for that many miles.

I agree!

 

[Dragonslave]

I will admit I got on it more than usual last I rode but certainly not enough to make it run this lean. No mods that I know of and looks stock. I tried to find a 34 int jet but I don't think S&S makes one. I did get a 33 though. Also had to order an 80 main. Picked up some new plugs and will mess with it this weekend if I can. I have a friend that just went into the hospital with a brain aneurysm. Hope she pulls through. Thanks for everyone's help especially Curtis. I will let everyone know how it turns out.

 

[Sven]

These were in the bike when I bought it? Look at the dots on the right plug. Look at the leak at the intake when you see that or a leak at the air cleaner.

These were in the bike when I bought it? Yeah, ran like shit so I bought it. Does not burn a drop of oil.
These were in the bike when I bought it? Yeah, ran piss out of it and now I fixed the leak so rich I am.
These were in the bike when I bought it? Yep, look at me porcelain. That's not a speck of aluminum pit.
These were in the bike when I bought it and now I'm going on line and reaLLY GET FUCKED UP INFO!

The fuck are you guys liking at? You don't see deep down how that engine is running is look at the nose and it tells nothing like plenty.

Is my engine overheating? NO!
Is my bike knocking like lean? THE FUCK NO! LOOK AT THE FUKING TIPS!!!
Just to add shit in the storm... Look at how clean my threads are; no oil ring det; as in collapse the dome down to the first groove; then press the ring onto the next groove. I have not det, no oil leak, no jet change, no, I want to load up my chamber [rich] now and raise the compression and det like a motherfucker!!!

And you wonder where the yellow went when you brush your teef wit pep sea dent.

Signed,
The fuck I'd listen to a jet change without a plug reader. Fuck!

 

[Dragonslave]

Drop to a 34, go up to an 80 and go with a .05 bleed
I would also highly recommend you stop putting so many miles on her until you get this fixed as there is no way your doing your motor any good running that lean for that many miles.

Since my good friend has been in the hospital suffering from an aneurysm, I haven't had a whole lot of time to work on her. I still have the same 78 main, 36 int, and .040 bleed. Take a look at these pics. I put new plugs in her and re-adjusted my carb. Left plug is the front. Do you guys still think I need to go to 80 main, 34 int, and .050? I also noticed the rear has some specs on the porcelain. Is this an issue? These plugs have about 30 miles on them.

 

[KaptinAmerika]

Yes, you definitely need to go to the 80, 34 and .05.
The specs on the right plug are aluminum because you are running so lean.
The black sootiness around the base of the plug tells me your still running rich at idle and 1/8th throttle.
Of course the white is telling me that your running lean at WOT and lean prior to that which is why you need to go to the .05 air bleed so the switch to the Main Jet comes on a little later which will richen up the midrange more.
Of course all of the above is based on your statements earlier about having the Spike air cleaner and having the idle air mixture screw and the accelerator pump both adjusted correctly and there being NO air leaks anywhere.
The advice I am giving here in no way applies to a standard carb setup so newbies beware.

 

[Dragonslave]

Yes, you definitely need to go to the 80, 34 and .05.
The specs on the right plug are aluminum because you are running so lean.
The black sootiness around the base of the plug tells me your still running rich at idle and 1/8th throttle.
Of course the white is telling me that your running lean at WOT and lean prior to that which is why you need to go to the .05 air bleed so the switch to the Main Jet comes on a little later which will richen up the midrange more.
Of course all of the above is based on your statements earlier about having the Spike air cleaner and having the idle air mixture screw and the accelerator pump both adjusted correctly and there being NO air leaks anywhere.
The advice I am giving here in no way applies to a standard carb setup so newbies beware.

Thanks Kaptin! Ive been trying to better understand what I am looking at and thank you for explaining it. I will let you know how it turns out.

 

[Sven]

http://www.bigdogbiker.com/attachments/image-jpg.25199/
Could someone explain how old these plugs look. Look at the left plug side electrode (L). Look at the green coating on it. Look how long it took to melt on the side electrode, then around the spark-flash, look how the green is knocked off by the arcing.

So without looking way down into the plug, the thousands of miles on these plugs... Looks like it to me... How could you come to the conclusion it's too lean if the threads are dry and clean, no piston ring damage, no piston score damage as if too lean.

Even with the right plug having debris melted onto the porcelain, a possible air leak on the one manifold, still causes the other to lean out too, show me why it needs a rejet.

Does the bike fall on its face we WOT the throttle? No.
Does it overheat while riding? No.
Does it smoke oil or use oil? No.
Does it start fast and idle smooth? Yes.

If all meet requirements, go head, waste more gas, more wallet, more carbon in the chamber, more decoking I'm too high of a compression, my bike keeps running; the carbon is glowing knowing it keeps firing off after key enters trouser pocket.

 

[Sven]

I want a white tip. Why? This is the nose of the plug and if it carbons up, spark is traveling in and around the wire to plug, etc. So if the carbon is a path, the spark finds the fastest path to ground and misses jumping the side and center electrode. That's why I want to run a clean/lean/mean/machine.

White to carbon to spark gone foul make sense?

 

[Dragonslave]

I want a white tip. Why? This is the nose of the plug and if it carbons up, spark is traveling in and around the wire to plug, etc. So if the carbon is a path, the spark finds the fastest path to ground and misses jumping the side and center electrode. That's why I want to run a clean/lean/mean/machine.

White to carbon to spark gone foul make sense?

I see what you are saying Sven but ive always heard that running lean will damage your engine.

What is your thoughts on this?

 

[KaptinAmerika]

I have a lot of respect for Sven and his knowledge but I submit that if you have aluminum particles on your "White" porcelain plug and you keep running it that way you "ARE" going to have a shorter motor life, in some cases dramatically shorter.
Lean and mean is great if you have money or the ability and desire to wrench on your machine to keep it that way.
Otherwise lean to the side, no pun intended, of slightly richer and have some reliability instead.

 

[KaptinAmerika]

This is all great too Sven but your making assumptions about some things that he already clarified earlier do not exist i.e. leaks.
He stated earlier there are no leaks. There being no leaks tells me that motor is running too lean.
Tell me where the aluminum, that is being deposited on the porcelain, is coming from. And that is just what is getting stuck to the porcelain no telling how much more is making it out of the chamber. I don't care what school of thought you adhere to that isn't a good thing no matter how great the motor seems to be running.
There is a balance that can be achieved on a set of plugs, if all other variables have been set right, for reliability and its not hot white porcelain with aluminum particles attached to it and a sooty base.

Juz sayin

http://www.bigdogbiker.com/attachments/image-jpg.25199/
Could someone explain how old these plugs look. Look at the left plug side electrode (L). Look at the green coating on it. Look how long it took to melt on the side electrode, then around the spark-flash, look how the green is knocked off by the arcing.

So without looking way down into the plug, the thousands of miles on these plugs... Looks like it to me... How could you come to the conclusion it's too lean if the threads are dry and clean, no piston ring damage, no piston score damage as if too lean.

Even with the right plug having debris melted onto the porcelain, a possible air leak on the one manifold, still causes the other to lean out too, show me why it needs a rejet.

Does the bike fall on its face we WOT the throttle? No.
Does it overheat while riding? No.
Does it smoke oil or use oil? No.
Does it start fast and idle smooth? Yes.

If all meet requirements, go head, waste more gas, more wallet, more carbon in the chamber, more decoking I'm too high of a compression, my bike keeps running; the carbon is glowing knowing it keeps firing off after key enters trouser pocket.

 

[KaptinAmerika]

Of course I'm not saying you want a carbon or black tip either but I am saying you don't want a dull bone white tip with aluminum particles on it.

I want a white tip. Why? This is the nose of the plug and if it carbons up, spark is traveling in and around the wire to plug, etc. So if the carbon is a path, the spark finds the fastest path to ground and misses jumping the side and center electrode. That's why I want to run a clean/lean/mean/machine.

White to carbon to spark gone foul make sense?