Shifting and Neutral...

Energy One
heybaylor

heybaylor

Active Member
firedog19 said:
it is interesting that I had the same problem until I went to a belt primary. now it slips into neutral with no effort while stopped
Click to expand...
I think that is because of the dry clutch.
the primary fluid (no matter what kind ) causes a little friction between the driven plates and the clutch plates, causing clutch drag, and along with the very short shifter throw
is the primary reason for the evasive "neutral".

albeit "the nature of the beast".

I may experiment by increasing the shifter "throw " see if it improves the
finding of neutral when stopped in gear. :Yawn:
 
mittens

mittens

Well-Known Member
I agree the wet clutch makes the clutch paltes very sticky. so even when they are not pressed by the pressure plate, they are sticky...

that being said, N is easy to find now.. hahaha
 
B

BAD DECISIONS

New Member
Sven said:
An ever so tiny warp to keep pressure on the gears. Check the plates in a static stack of steels on top of each other. Where is the air gap?

As you disassemble the clutch, all steels have a cut side and a round edge. See if all cuts face you as they are removed. If turned?

Lay all your left fingers on your right fingers. See that pressure or memory? Lay one hand over the other and watch our fingers both follow each other together. See no pressure finding N?
Click to expand...
BAKER SAYS SHARP OR CUT EDGES SHOULD BE TOWARD THE TRANSMISSION
 
The Honch

The Honch

Active Member
I thought maybe it was just my bike, but I can barely find neutral(takes several tries) when my Dog is running. If I turn the bike off, it goes right into neutral without a problem.
 
03pitdog

03pitdog

Member
I run lucas 75/140 synthetic gear oil and about 8 ounces of lucas heavy duty oil stabilizer in tranny really helps with finding neutral no problem as long as clutch is adjusted properly ofcourse but stabilizer really helps.
 
mzinna

mzinna

Zman
Hmmmmm... I've not had this issue... Once in a Great while I need to rev up the RPM's to shift to neutral but, I don't seem to have the issue you are speaking about. I have a 2008 Mutt. :flag:
 
francoblay1

francoblay1

The Spaniard
The Honch said:
I thought maybe it was just my bike, but I can barely find neutral(takes several tries) when my Dog is running. If I turn the bike off, it goes right into neutral without a problem.
Click to expand...
Most of us have this "issue"..... it´s the nature of the beast..... :up:

Plenty discussed for years here in the Forum.... just make sure your clutch is well adjusted and get used to it! :2thumbs:

:cheers:
 
TapioK

TapioK

Well-Known Member
I'd go with Sven here, replace or check those plates. Do not settle with nature of the beast. I have had no problem finding neutral with original primary, autoclutch on open belt, nor open primary with normal clutch. Baker has I think 4 thickness of steels. Thinnest for 12 friction plates, thicker for 9 friction. On my open belt clutch I have first in the really thick one, then few thin ones, in the middle I think 3 medium thinkness, then thin ones and the last steel is again very thick. 11 friction plates all together. Works like a dream. Click click like a bolt of the riffle.


Tapio
 
headshothills

headshothills

Member
Sorry to dig up my old thread, but after going through what I recently did, I wanted to make sure others were aware of the infamous "Finding Neutral" problem...

It turns out I had a couple different things going on that contributed to finding neutral...

For one, the clutch hub nut backed off, and the whole basket was wobbling, which made clutch engagement and finding neutral a challenge. Apparently this is a known issue, Baker also has the replacement nut for 8 bucks.

This cured the "Finding Neutral" issue once the nut was properly secured and loctited.

Secondly, Since I had the clutch apart, I mic'ed the stack and all was good, what I didnt know at the time, BD used a aluminum billet pressure plate that wasnt hard anodized, thus creating a premature wearing item. After I got everything back together, I noticed clutch slip under hard accel in 3rd and up, and roll on in 6th...

Baker has a replacement hard anodized pressure plate for 46 bucks. Swapped that out, and now the clutch is perfect. No slipping, no issues finding neutral..

While I believe there is a Mic spec for that pressure plate, I dont recall what it is for the "Out of Spec" wear thickness... Nevertheless, I wanted to share in case someone else came searching for this issue.
 
T

Thunder Dog

New Member
Hello everyone and I love all the expeirience and help on here. I just got my first big dog an 03 Mastiff and I love it. anyways this thread has been somewhat helpful but I am having a problem with my bike pulling with the clutch disengaged as well as the impossible neutral by foot. so thanks head shot hills I will def be getting that nut. Clutch handle feels good but driving down the road its really difficult to change gears and the pulling. PLEASE HELp
 
mittens

mittens

Well-Known Member
SOunds like your clutch is dragging. you can adjust it little by little to get it to not drag at a light.. this should also help with shifting and finding N.
 
T

Thunder Dog

New Member
Are you talking about adjusting the clutch cable itself?? My cable is adjusted out so far that the bottom part is not on threads, I have the back nut tightend down to keep pressure. Is it possible I just need a new clutch cable. Thank you for the quick response
 
TapioK

TapioK

Well-Known Member
Thunder Dog said:
Are you talking about adjusting the clutch cable itself?? My cable is adjusted out so far that the bottom part is not on threads, I have the back nut tightend down to keep pressure. Is it possible I just need a new clutch cable. Thank you for the quick response
Click to expand...

This may help you.


Tapio
 
mittens

mittens

Well-Known Member
I am talking about pulling the clutch cover, (large round removable cover on the primary) and adjusting the clutch adjustment screw.

normally a 11/16” nut in the center of the clutch housing, and an Allen key screw in the middle. you hold screw still, loosen outer nut, and then adjust ever so slightly to get more disengagement.. then lock back down and test drive it around a little.


SMALL adjustments is key here. 1/8th of a turn can make all the difference between awesome and slipping, or dragging
 
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