Schaeffer oil

Energy One

What oil do you run and why

  • Mobile 1

    Votes: 26 36.6%

  • Harley Davidson 20-50

    Votes: 6 8.5%

  • Royal Purple

    Votes: 3 4.2%

  • Pennzoil

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • other

    Votes: 36 50.7%
  • Total voters
    71
  • Poll closed .
liferider

liferider

Looking forward to retirement
I started running Schaeffer a couple of years ago. The oil has a lot of Molly in it. The sales person came to my office. We went into my machine shop took my large drill press, my 1/4'' drill bit and a piece of steel from my shop. We drilled a 1/4'' hole in .30 seconds. Then moved the plate over 2'' and applied 2 drops of oil containing high amounts of molly. After 10 minutes all the drill bit did was scratch the steel. We run this stuff in out rotary tables on our drilling rigs and the temp of the rotary boxes is non existant. I was sold.
Schaeffer now has Micron Molly racing oil products 20/50 oil. with heavy Molly content. Has anyone used it? I am looking heavily into running this stuff in both my bikes. I have been running Mobile 1. My cousin who thinks Mobile 1 is the greatest thing since sliced bread now has a problem. His 383 create motor is down. Seem's the mechanical fuel pump's arm that rides on the front of the cam wore the lobe to nothing. He litterally ran out of gas going down the road with 1/2 a tank of fuel in the hot rod. He could not figure out what happened till his neighbor whom is a mechanic said he see's this from time to time. He said Mobile 1 and other oils lack Molly or zinc in the product. This helps the oil stay on parts instead of getting thrown off. Rislone makes a zinc additive you can add to your oil. But why not go with a Molly oil and not worry. I talked to the Tech support for Schaffer and was told, " Oil products like Mobile 1 ect...have reduced Zinc, Molly, & Phosphorus in there oil products while Schaffer has actually added more in recent years." Need yall's input! Some of yall are serious wrench turners so lets figure this one out!
 

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NascarNutCase

Well-Known Member
Run Mobil1 mainly because it was the only synthetic I read was recommended by S&S. Maybe all that means is that it was the only synthetic tested?
 
Th3InfamousI

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
Interesting Read on Zinc Additive. It seems like its primary use is in old hot rod engines with Flat Tappets. I plan on doing some more research and will post my findings. I believe Amsoil advertises their higher level of Zinc PPM in their oils so there may be something to it.

I think the key takeaway out of the reading below is..."Today's modern reduced-zinc passenger-car street oils contain other dedicated antioxidants to make up for the loss of zinc." - So that includes Mobil1 and other brands.


This sounds like one of those myths were they say Synthetic oil is just to slippery. :loony:

From the February, 2007 issue of Hot Rod Magazine
By Marlan Davis


Tweet | | Zinc Oil Additive
-February 2007-

Question: I thoroughly enjoyed the tech article "When Good Cams Go Bad" (June '06), but I have a couple of questions: If you have an older car without a catalytic converter but don't have flat tappets, is there any advantage to using the oils with higher zinc content? Also, I have a '56 Chevy with a Bill Mitchell 427 small-block. It has the aluminum block and heads (my version of a ZL1). Is there any adverse reaction between aluminum and zinc?
Ron McCranie
Denver, CO

Answer: Quaker State engineer Mark Ferner said zinc's extreme pressure qualities also aid in reducing piston ring-to-cylinder bore wear at BDC and TDC, where the rotating assembly sees an abrupt change in velocity and direction. Besides its extreme pressure protection, multifunctional zinc also functions as an antioxidant. That is, things exposed to heat and oxygen are subject to oxidation. In the case of a ferrous metal like iron, oxidation causes corrosion, which we see as rust. As applied to motor oil, Ferner said as the "heat accelerates oxygen, the oil starts to oxidize and thicken, changing into other molecular combinations. As the oil thickens, it forms deposits or varnish. In motor oil, the antioxidant additives first sacrifice themselves to prevent this oxidation from occurring, but if they get overwhelmed, the oil eventually turns into a hard, crusty sludge."

In its antioxidant role, zinc fights heat buildup in various hot spots like the piston-to-piston ring interface and the underside of the piston itself. Oil can accumulate in the honing crosshatch marks in the cylinder bore where it is exposed to combustion temperatures as high as 400-450 degrees F, a prime candidate for oxidation if not protected. Today's modern reduced-zinc passenger-car street oils contain other dedicated antioxidants to make up for the loss of zinc.

The potential zinc downside is that in theory, an engine with excessive blow-by could accumulate zinc deposits in the combustion chamber, potentially becoming a detonation magnet. But Ferner maintained, "You would need a fairly good amount of blow-by to really be bad for the chamber. There used to be 1,400-1,500 zinc ppm in [passenger-car] motor oils, about where [Shell] Rotella [diesel-truck] oil is now. We ran those high levels for years and years and never had a problem with chamber deposits building up. Zinc accumulation mainly affects oxygen sensors and catalytic converters, which are very sensitive to the ash that may accumulate on them."

Regarding a potential reaction between aluminum and zinc, again, in theory, when dissimilar metals come in contact with one another, a phenomenon known as galvanic corrosion can occur. When this happens, the least-noble metal acts as an anode and will corrode preferentially compared with the other, less active, cathodic metal. A common example we've all seen is using stainless steel bolts and washers to retain an aluminum intake manifold. After long-term use, if you remove the bolts and washers, the aluminum surface underneath those washers will be corroded because aluminum is less noble than stain-less steel. A solution would be to use zinc- or cadmium-plated washers instead of stainless washers. The plated steel washers then become the least noble material of the three in contact, sacrificing themselves to protect the critical parts. (Of course, they'll end up looking ugly and need to be replaced, but that's better than ruining an expensive intake.) In the case of zinc additives versus your aluminum block, Ferner reported "no adverse reaction between aluminum and zinc at the levels we are discussing. Fourteen-hundred ppm would be 0.14 percent by weight-it's insignificant." Actually it's even less than that, since "the zinc additive is not free metallic zinc or powder; it's part of a zinc/phosphorous/sulphur compound, so really it's only about 0.06-0.08 percent by weight" of the motor-oil brew.

Quaker State
Houston, TX
800/458-4998 (motor oil tech-line)
800/695-7797 (racing lubricants dealer locator)
www.qpower.com or Motor Oil, Transmission Fluids & Synthetic Oil | Quaker State



Read more: Zinc Oil Additive - Hot Rod Magazine
Click to expand...
 
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cwcrash

Member
mobile-one

my corvette says to only use mobile-one ,so when i heard that they make v-twin, 20/50 no-brainer, im sure that the other brands are just as good .:2thumbs::2thumbs::flag:
 
liferider

liferider

Looking forward to retirement
OK, according to this artical above: in a Big Twin engine having no catalyic converter, no oxygen sensor, and the potentol to have high cyl. heat. high zinc quantities in oil is a good thing.
 
ground pounder

ground pounder

Active Member
I use Spectro 20W50 semi synthetic and get the best of bothe. Convetional oil and synthetic oil. Seems to hold up and not thin out as much as regular oil in the higher temperatures in the summer.
 
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wyatt580

Well-Known Member
Mobile 1 easy to get any and every town has wal mart... but maybe the other is better...just one more thing to carry if wally doesn't have it....
 
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