S&S IST ignition now installed and running

HDLARRY

Active Member
Got my 05 Bulldog back home a couple days ago after doing a number of upgrades. I've only put 200 miles on it this past weekend but was rather impressed with the IST ignition.

I could actually feel the motor vibration smoothing out as I was putting the miles on. They claim that it takes about 500 miles to finish it's auto-mapping but things have smoothed out nicely with just 200 miles. Even at low rpm acceleration, there is no cylinder rattle (pinging) like I used to hear. This has to be better for our motors.

Another benefit is an improvement in MPG. Used to get about 26-28 mpg but after running a full tank through it I'm up to 39 mpg. No jetting has changed in my XXX carb. Maybe it was just taking it easy on the throttle that did this but a friend of mine is running 124" S&S with the IST and getting 46 mpg hiway. I would think that mine will go up a little more as things get broken in.

Can't say much about performance until I get some more miles on it and start accelerating it harder. I can say that it idles very smoothly and starts a little easier when hot.

Will not get it dyno'd for another couple months when we have another 800 miles on it and my LSR 2-1 exhaust shows up.

For those that are not familiar with the S&S IST ignition, it automatically creates a custom timing curve for your motor. This is based on the addition of an Intake Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor, cylinder temperature sensor, knock (ping) sensor and replacement crank sensor. It can change your timing from 26-50 degrees per my tech but will only advance as far as the knock sensor allows. This should give you better performance and mileage. Another nice feature is that if you are stuck someplace where you cannot get premium fuel it will adjust your timing curve to compensate. What it cannot do is adjust your air/fuel ratio. So if your jetting is not right it may try to adjust itself into some kind of a performance reducing mode. Another drawback is the price for parts is around $800. On the other hand I don’t think you will find a better ignition system for a carbureted bike anywhere.

S&S IST ignition - PN 55-1221

S&S 4 1/8" bore SSW+ installation kit - PN 55-1050

S&S Single Fire coil - PN 55-1571 Might be able to use the stock coil but I didn't try it.
 
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lee

Well-Known Member
good work Larry - I have the ignition on the way to me from Nelson although i didn't get the extra's you mention - we already have a single fire coil and what is the installation kit you are referring to? I paid around $360 for mine I think.
 

Chopper Dave

SIICK!!!
Got my 05 Bulldog back home a couple days ago after doing a number of upgrades. I've only put 200 miles on it this past weekend but was rather impressed with the IST ignition.

I could actually feel the motor vibration smoothing out as I was putting the miles on. They claim that it takes about 500 miles to finish it's auto-mapping but things have smoothed out nicely with just 200 miles. Even at low rpm acceleration, there is no cylinder rattle (pinging) like I used to hear. This has to be better for our motors.

Another benefit is an improvement in MPG. Used to get about 26-28 mpg but after running a full tank through it I'm up to 39 mpg. No jetting has changed in my XXX carb. Maybe it was just taking it easy on the throttle that did this but a friend of mine is running 124" S&S with the IST and getting 46 mpg hiway. I would think that mine will go up a little more as things get broken in.

Can't say much about performance until I get some more miles on it and start accelerating it harder. I can say that it idles very smoothly and starts a little easier when hot.

Will not get it dyno'd for another couple months when we have another 800 miles on it and my LSR 2-1 exhaust shows up.

For those that are not familiar with the S&S IST ignition, it automatically creates a custom timing curve for your motor. This is based on the addition of an Intake Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor, cylinder temperature sensor, knock (ping) sensor and replacement crank sensor. It can change your timing from 26-50 degrees per my tech but will only advance as far as the knock sensor allows. This should give you better performance and mileage. Another nice feature is that if you are stuck someplace where you cannot get premium fuel it will adjust your timing curve to compensate. What it cannot do is adjust your air/fuel ratio. So if your jetting is not right it may try to adjust itself into some kind of a performance reducing mode. Another drawback is the price for parts is around $800. On the other hand I don’t think you will find a better ignition system for a carbureted bike anywhere.

S&S IST ignition - PN 55-1221

S&S 4 1/8" bore SSW+ installation kit - PN 55-1050

S&S Single Fire coil - PN 55-1571 Might be able to use the stock coil but I didn't try it.
cool Larry! :up: lets get some pic's of your set-up
 

lee

Well-Known Member
looks like I dropped a bollock - seems I only ordered the Ignition module, not realising that everything you need to actually fit the thing to the bike you need to buy seperately - you live and learn (except I don't seem to learn!)
yeah lets see them pics - I might need them!
 

HDLARRY

Active Member
Yes Lee, the installation kit has all the sensors and wiring harness. The ignition PN is just the module.

I'll try to take a few pictures tonight when I get back home but there isn't much to see. My Bulldog has the front frame nose bullet attached to the lower frame and it was the best place for us to hide this thing. The MAP sensor is black and kind of stands out like a sore thumb against the chrome carb that it's attached to. The other sensors are hardly seen. Still have a little cosmetic work to do but it's functional.
 

lee

Well-Known Member
Thanks Larry - do you mean the belly pan / chin spoiler down by the VR? what did they put in there?? doesn't the module go in the same place the old one came out of?
 

HDLARRY

Active Member
Lee,

I guess you can call it the chin spoiler that everything is hidden in. We left the stock igintion module in place so as not to cause any problems with the EHC. In addition we can switch back the to stock ignition on the road if we really had to.

Just tapped into the stock ignition module tach output to the EHC with the new IST tach output. Disconnected the stock crank sensor and coiled it back out of the way and installed the new crank sensor and wiring. Of course all the other new sensors are carried back to the IST module. Don't have my paperwork in front of me but I believe at the stock coil we taped back the original front and rear coil trigger leads. Those two trigger wires are now being provided by the IST harness.

I wanted to set this up so that if things didn't work out we could go back to the stock setup easily. We were also concerned about screewing up the expensive EHC so we tried not to disturb any more than we absolutely had to. As it stands, I could completly tear the IST system out and have the stock ignition functional in 1-2 hours. So far everything has worked perfectly. Tach and everything seems to work just like they did before.
 

lee

Well-Known Member
Thanks Larry - useful info there...doubt I'll go that way (out with the old and in with the new and all that) but I can see that it might be worthwhile - luckily you are my guinea pig!
 

HDLARRY

Active Member
Don't know how this will work but I attached a few pictures. Keep in mind that I still have a few things to do yet.

If anyone else tries to do this conversion I would recommend you put everything behind your battery box cowlings. In my case that area is filled with the air compressor for the suspension and my Scorpio alarm system. As you can see not much room left. Had to put it down in the lower frame nose cover.

No room here


With the nose cover off you can see the mass of wires and ignition module. Normally this space is empty.


Wire harness lifted off the IST module


Wire harness up to coil and sensors. Still need to get some chrome spiral protective cover over this wire loom.


New crank sensor is a little taller and creates a clearance issue with spinning the oil filter off. Either need to remove the crank sensor bolt and sensor each time or get a shorter filter.


The MAP sensor is black and located top/rear of carb. Connected to the intake manifold port that the rocker box vents used to dump too. The motor temperature and knock sensors are buried where you can not see them.


Little closer shot of the MAP sensor.


My two babies are waiting to go for a ride.
 
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Gas Man

Cool isn't cheap
Calendar Participant
Repped for good pics.

Should be hung by your nads if you don't remove the downtube stickers... :D :lol:
 

Dawgboy

Active Member
Larry -

Great discussion. Keep us posted with MPG results when you reach the 500-800 mile mark. Did you find this on the S&S site?
 
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