Running great then... not so much!

K

KickStand

Member
2005 Mastiff with a S&S 117
Installed a Super G carb from XXX and a D&M air cleaner (not a spike) over a week ago and my bike ran like a scalded dog. The following weekend my buddies and I went down to Austin for the ROT rally. My bike ran flawless with no problems and tons of power.

We got back from Austin on Sunday and I cleaned up the bike. Monday I installed a new headlight bucket and license plate light harness (my orig didnt work). Tested the lights and everything worked great. Took the bike to the gas station and noticed some hesitation. Filled up the bike and rode for a short time and noticed my bike was spittin, backfiring out the pipes and thru the carb. The more throttle I give the bike the worse it gets!

Got home, drained the tanks thinking it was just bad gas. Filled up with gas from a diff gas station, same problem.

Below is a list of things I have checked:
• Replaced the spark plugs, gapped to .040" (Previous plug color looked perfect just wanted to see if I had a fouled plug)
• With the bike running, I sprayed carb cleaner on the intake manifold and seals to the carb. No change in idle... no leak
• Unhooked the battery completely.
• Reconnected the EHC with Dielectric grease, then reconnected battery
• Checked all the connections
• Replaced both exhaust manifold gaskets with new ones
• Dropped fuel bowl on carb and checked jets... clean

The bike will abruptly die while riding with no warning. All the lights stay on but, it wont restart unless I cycle the ignition key off and then on again. Dont think its a fuel delivery problem at this point but I still need to check the accel pump on the carb. Just seems like an electrical or ignition problem.

Do any of you wise old Dogs have any tips for me before I start throwing money at new plug wires, ignition, etc?

Thanks,
matt
 
K

KickStand

Member
I was thinking the same thing OrangeSkullz!

If it is an EHC issue, I will be buying the WP kit ASAP!

Also, just want to mention that I am running a 33/78 jets and a Martin Brothers Trendkills exhaust.
 
BigDogBro1

BigDogBro1

Made in the USA
Start at the beginning

Battery?
fuel tank air vent?
plugged petcock screen?

Check ALL of the crimped connectors for good solid crimps at the battery posts. Tug on them! Mine were so loose they could be pulled out. My bike would die going down the road as well until the battery connection crimps were repaired.

Maybe the valve adjusters came loose.

It's not always an EHC. Do a little technical diagnosis first before jumping to conclusions.
 
Last edited:
K

KickStand

Member
BigDogBro1 said:
Battery?
fuel tank air vent?
plugged petcock screen?

Check ALL of the crimped connectors for good solid crimps at the battery posts. Tug on them! Mine were so loose they could be pulled out. My bike would die going down the road as well until the battery connection crimps were repaired.

Maybe the valve adjusters came loose.

It's not always an EHC. Do a little technical diagnosis first before jumping to conclusions.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the tips BigDogBro1. So far I have checked some of the things you mentioned:
• Battery has been checked and is good.
• Fuel Tank vent has already been removed
• Checked petcock screen and fuel lines when I drained and removed the tanks last night. All are clear and working like they should.
• Rechecked the carb and jets, everything is clean and functioning correctly.

How can I check the "valve adjusters"? I havent checked the crimps on the batt connectors but will do that tonight. I dont think its a fuel problem, seems more like an ignition/electrical problem.
 
K

KickStand

Member
Hey BigDogBro1,

Just went home at lunch and checked all the crimped wires that lead to the battery and all were crimped tight, no loose wires.
 
BadBrad

BadBrad

2005 Pitbull
DaneDog said:
Thanks for the tips BigDogBro1. So far I have checked some of the things you mentioned:
• Battery has been checked and is good.
• Fuel Tank vent has already been removed
• Checked petcock screen and fuel lines when I drained and removed the tanks last night. All are clear and working like they should.
• Rechecked the carb and jets, everything is clean and functioning correctly.

How can I check the "valve adjusters"? I havent checked the crimps on the batt connectors but will do that tonight. I dont think its a fuel problem, seems more like an ignition/electrical problem.
Click to expand...
I'm not sure but maybe he meant pushrods....Just remove the pushrod covers and make sure none of them have collapsed. My wife's mastiff did this just over a week ago and it lost power, spit, sputtered, loud pops but was able to limp home. When you remove the covers, you should see where the lock nut is still in place and there should be visible threads on the push rod adjustment at the bottom of the rod.
 
K

KickStand

Member
BadBrad said:
I'm not sure but maybe he meant pushrods....Just remove the pushrod covers and make sure none of them have collapsed. My wife's mastiff did this just over a week ago and it lost power, spit, sputtered, loud pops but was able to limp home. When you remove the covers, you should see where the lock nut is still in place and there should be visible threads on the push rod adjustment at the bottom of the rod.
Click to expand...
Thanks BadBrad, Ill check out the pushrods when I get home tonight. How do you remove the covers?
 
K

KickStand

Member
May have found the problem!

Late last night I was going thru the ignition wires and found a portion of wire that had been worn thru. The wire comes from the Ignition under the seat, around the side of the battery box and up thru the backbone to the coil.
Where the wire passes around the edge of the battery box, the shrinkwrap was worn thru as well as the insulation on the blue wire.

Got it all patched up with 2 layers of shrink wrap and put dielectric grease on ALL connections. Having my coil tested up at Strokers today just to be sure it hasnt been damaged from the short circuit.
 
K

KickStand

Member
Thanks Dead,
Ive been trying to figure this out for almost 2 weeks. Talk about finding a needle in a haystack.... geez! I wont know for sure if that was the problem until I get home tonight and put the tanks and coil back on, then go for a ride.

I did notice inside the coil cover I have that extra diode patch in the wiring between the coil and ignition switch. Should I remove it or leave it in? Ive heard of others taking it out.
 
K

KickStand

Member
SUCCESS AT LAST!
Got home last night and put my Dog back together. Hit the road around 9pm and everything is working PERFECTLY. Its amazing how one little 16 gauge wire with a tiny cut in the insulation can take you to the verge of insanity.
Thanks for all your suggestions folks, they definitely helped my narrow down my search.
 
K

KickStand

Member
TheDeadOne said:
16 gauge wire? :confused:

Try close to 20 gauge! :eek: :willy_nilly:...:zzdisappointed:

It's spec mill, but in reality, that what it's close to! :loony:....:zzdisappointed:

But GOOD JOB! :2thumbs:

dead :cheers:
Click to expand...
Thanks Dead! I wasnt exactly sure of the gauge but I know its freaking tiny wire. Rode the bike to work this morning...feeels GREAT!
 
N8KAM

N8KAM

Well-Known Member
Great to hear you got it fixed. :2thumbs::2thumbs:
The part between your ign switch and harness is a resister...

If you ever have your EHC replaced to the USB style data connector be sure to remove this resister or it will give you a shut down issue..
 
K

KickStand

Member
N8KAM said:
Great to hear you got it fixed. :2thumbs::2thumbs:
The part between your ign switch and harness is a resister...

If you ever have your EHC replaced to the USB style data connector be sure to remove this resister or it will give you a shut down issue..
Click to expand...
Pretty sure I still have my original EHC so Im gonna leave the resistor in for now. My bike is running so good right now, I dont want to touch a thing :)
 
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