Rt hand control circuit board?

Energy One

bigdognsydney

New Member
So make my first trip to Sturgis this year. And on the way to Rushmore , we get washed w no where to hide. Now my research has the reason the right hand control won't work is the circuit board. I took it out to dry it n still no luck. So does anyone know where I can get a new circuit board ???I've called many with no luck and w biktoberfest around the corner , I need help desperately.
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
Shot in the dark. Look real HARD at the board and their hard parts. Watt little I know about electricity, say a drop falls over two prongs where that lead lays on the board, makes contact to the other side of that lead to that prong and there is your short kind of scenario.

Where on the board is there a dark spot? If that burnt area can be salvaged with a new resistor, the first thing is, where is it cooked? Say the switch is out of the way we assume it's the switch. Where are we with power to the switch? So disconnect the switch and prong for power with a test light on the main wire harness side with key on.

You buy a switch and it does not work. See what I'm saying? The water drop has to cook the mniboard at a certain spot is my guess, or no power to the switch.
 

awg

Guru
Not to jack this thread but since were on this subject would anyone know why I have to push the start button pretty hard to get the bike to start?
 
Button is worn a bit.
If your electronically savvy you can repair it yourself or you can send it to WSW and we should be able to fix it for you.
 
Seems to be primarily in the start button, due to use I would assume.
Some believe them to be bad because the brake light won't activate but that is easily remedied by replacing the reed switch on the board or possibly a damaged or misaligned lever magnet.
Also, some of the boards have a failure in the seal on the board which will allow moisture in. Again relatively easy to remedy by drying out the board, adhering the clear seal back to the board and sealing it with a urethane conformal sealant.
 

Jwooky

Well-Known Member
meaning the sub-component pill switch that is soldered to the PCB that could be replaced.
 

Jwooky

Well-Known Member
oh ok.....haven't had the pleasure or need (knock on wood), to tear one down.

So then what fails, the contacts wear out? Any pics of what it looks like?
 
That's weird, never noticed that before....LOL
Generally what happens is the clear plastic will get damaged in some way allowing the snap button to move so that it no longer makes proper contact. In addition once the seal is broken moisture can creep in and foul the contact as well. I've had a couple that someone else had attempted to repair where the circuit itself was damaged and I have to repair the actual trace on the board.
 

mml03102

Active Member
That happen to me on my 04 Pitbull the rubber had a slight split in it and the moisture would get inside and I began to hear the starter turning over now and then while it was running so I got a new rubber seal and all was fine!

Curtis I was getting my parts from someone else because they were the only ones I new at the time but youre getting all my business from now on after a falling out with the other guys. '
 
No need to explain Marc. There are a lot of good vendors supporting the forum. I admit I am competitive and I will try like hell to take it all of it I can but this is America and that's how we role in business.
I have a lot of resources and bigdogpartsking is definitely one of them. I give them a lot of leeway because they are there for the Big Dog family and it is only the two of them cranking this stuff out day in and day out plus running a farm. They have laid a lot of money out to get BD stuff manufactured for us also.
That said I won't try to explain away an experience someone has had with another vendor. That is between them and the vendor.
 

mml03102

Active Member
I have always had good things to say about them as well, I just don't get the recent transaction but I said what I had to say in anther post and its history now, Thanks Curtis
 

BigDogBro1

Made in the USA
REPLY FROM OTHER SAME THREAD: Just because the circuit board may have gotten wet doesn't mean it's junk. If you would remove the PCB from the handlebar housing you will be able to inspect it. The stainless steel key domes (if not collasped) should be able to be removed by peeling off the clear polyester overlay that holds the domes in position on the PCB.

If there is any water or debris under the dome it can be cleaned with isopropanol alcohol. The PC board contacts can be gently cleaned with a pink pencil eraser then cleaned with isopropanol alcohol. Align and stick down the domes to the PCB and test before re-assembly.

Or it could be a different problem entirely.

REPLY TO THIS THREAD: The little (pill) is just a tiny magnetic reed switch that works with a magnet in the front brake control. The reed switch could be replaced if a suitable one could be found from perhaps Digikey Electronics. Some reed switches are orientation sensitive. Do an internet search on that Hamlin (59021-500) reed switch number and you might find a replacement. OR BUY ONE FROM WSW.

Manufacturer:
http://www.hamlin.com/product-detail.cfm?productid=48
Data sheet:
http://www.hamlin.com/specsheets/59021 IssueAC.pdf

One possible source: NOT SURE IF THIS IS THE EXACT MODEL WITHOUT FURTHER RESEARCH
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...=sGAEpiMZZMs3uAJYYmvlK4xn/dk6jSib8kIXr0XzBaw=

A thick adhesive tape can be used to create a new polyester overlay cover to get a good seal. I had the "OFF" button start to fail this year and it was just the rubberized push peg on the back side of the start button silicone cover was no longer pushing enough. I glued a 1/16" thick piece of rubber to the END of the PEG to extend it further inside when it pushed against the stainless steel dome. It's been working fine all season since the fix.


 
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