RIP problems still.
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BWG56
Guru
X2, they need a mock up test and check list to go thru before they send them out.But I really believe he has another short somewhere.
Agreed there's a short but he hasn't given a single multi meter reading so I don't know what more help can be offered
But I really believe he has another short somewhere.
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There are no lights on the ignition module because there is no power going to it.
When I disconnect connectors 8 &9 between the RIP and the ignition module and hook up the volt meter and hit the run button there should be 12 volts coming from the RIP module but meter reads 0. I agree it must be a short but I am having a hell of at time trying to find it. I have the gas tank off for the third time and am taking the harness apart to try to locate it. A wiring diagram would be very helpful.
When I disconnect connectors 8 &9 between the RIP and the ignition module and hook up the volt meter and hit the run button there should be 12 volts coming from the RIP module but meter reads 0. I agree it must be a short but I am having a hell of at time trying to find it. I have the gas tank off for the third time and am taking the harness apart to try to locate it. A wiring diagram would be very helpful.
Matt Moore
Member
The number one challenge we fight on a daily basis is misdiagnosis. The RIP kit harnesses are tested multiple times before they go out on very sophisticated machines by a 3rd party. We had a mis-pin here and there from the early hand-made ones in-house. and a small batch from the later machine-made harnessed where a crimp was too tight and made the pin susceptible to break under stress. All of those harnesses have been replaced by us under warranty 100%. The count on these is very low...less than 10 total I believe. I can say outside of these 10, EVERY harness that has been returned for testing has tested good (excluding harnesses damaged during install). This means something else on the customers bike is not working or has been modified from factory configurations. We do our best to help customers troubleshoot but sometimes armchair diagnostics over the phone (or on a forum) are impossible and require a hands-on approach. Also, as these bikes get older, we are finding more and more modifications from the factory configurations so it is much harder for us to troubleshoot. We spend many hours every week troubleshooting people's bikes for free. We stand behind our products and we have hundreds (maybe thousands) of satisfied RIP owners. If you are dissatisfied with your kit, please let us know so we have the opportunity to make it right. However we can only guarantee our kit to be functional and perform the duties of the factory EHC...we can't guarantee it will fix all the problems on your bike because we rely on the YOUR diagnosis. We have seen failures and performed repairs on every type and brand of EHC replacement kit available today and earlier. I think every business out there supporting Big Dogs deals with this on a daily basis. These businesses are here to help and need your support. Constructive criticism is welcome. Uninformed mud slinging isn't helpful and should be ignored. I see so much inaccurate information on here at times it is no brain-buster why people get frustrated. Thanks for letting me rant.
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BigDogBro1
Made in the USA
Well stated Matt (KMW). It is difficult to troubleshoot these bikes even with good skills and understanding. Sometimes there just isn't enough information available. Keep notes, a clear mind and eliminate one thing at a time.
Try using a long section of wire as a jumper to bypass a suspected wire between connector end pins and retest it. Removing the one end of the wire from the circuit.
Try using a long section of wire as a jumper to bypass a suspected wire between connector end pins and retest it. Removing the one end of the wire from the circuit.
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Have an O4 Chopper. Been having the same issue. Looking for advice
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Matt, I understand completely what you are saying. Like I said before I installed 2 other RIP kits before and one was a very modified dog but he has had no problems with it. The only modifications to mine is the exhaust and the addition of an oil temp. gauge. I have the gas tank off again and am checking every connector and wire. i appreciate your sending me the connector pinout. This should be a big help however I am going out of town for a few days and won't have an opportunity to work on it again until next week. I do appreciate Big Dog and all the other help I have gotten.
kickstart
Well-Known Member
Just to clarify does the above (highlited) statement include DOC's ESC ? Just curious.
It has been 8 weeks now and I have had the gas tank off for the third time, the wiring harness completely apart and checked every connection and continuity from the source to the end of the plug where it connects to the RIP module. Still no hi beam but there is power to everything else but the ignition module which controls the crank sensor and the coil. According to the pin readout on the RIP module pin 35 supplies power to the ignition module. There is no power on this pin at all. If I could find someone in this area that knows more about this bike then I do, I would gladly enlist their help. I am a certified GM Goodwrench and a Viper Tech and I have never been so frustrated working on any vehicle as much as I have this one. Any body got any suggestions besides buying more parts.
I would unplug all the connectors and then plug in only connectors that are necessary for the ignition
module power up - like ignition key connector, right hand control switch and ignition module power connector.
Do not connect the coil and crank sensor plugs either.
Turn your key on, press the run button and see if you get power to your ignition module and let us know.
Paul.
module power up - like ignition key connector, right hand control switch and ignition module power connector.
Do not connect the coil and crank sensor plugs either.
Turn your key on, press the run button and see if you get power to your ignition module and let us know.
Paul.
cdogg556
Guru
Ker, If anyone can help,I know you can, have you PM'd him yet???
I've got to review the RIP diagram at work but just for clarification you are measuring 0 Volts on the pin when the harness is unplugged?
Just want clarification you are measuring at the pin and not at the end of the wire.
Thanks
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Okay so here we go got the diagram in front of me.
You are correct you should have +12v on Pin#35 to ignition.
NOW with that said however PIN#35 will only have +12v if its activated by the Run command (RUN Button). Which is PIN #32.
You got your tank off so I would disconnect the right hand control board with the harness plugged into the controller and jump the start command switch (grey) and see if the ignition module light turns on will only be for a second then off again that's normal. Then jump the start button and wammo
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You are correct you should have +12v on Pin#35 to ignition.
NOW with that said however PIN#35 will only have +12v if its activated by the Run command (RUN Button). Which is PIN #32.
You got your tank off so I would disconnect the right hand control board with the harness plugged into the controller and jump the start command switch (grey) and see if the ignition module light turns on will only be for a second then off again that's normal. Then jump the start button and wammo
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