Rear Wheel Alignment
- Thread starter Brent Herridge
- Start date
Brent Herridge
Active Member
Yeah, I was missing one of the brake-side ones. That went on quick.
To fix the adjusters moving when I added the lock screws, I backed them both all the way back to flush with the swingarm, and then moved both back to the correct belt tension (3/8" to 5/16"). For the record it was 9 1/2 turns.
But the belt is now rubbing the tire. Before the belt tracked on the outside edge of the rear pulley. Now it's tracking on the inside edge, and that tiny variance is enough to hit the tire.
I moved the left adjuster 1/2 a turn tighter, which should push the left edge toward the back and move the front of the wheel to the left, which should be away from the belt.
It did not seem to help.
Ideas ?
To fix the adjusters moving when I added the lock screws, I backed them both all the way back to flush with the swingarm, and then moved both back to the correct belt tension (3/8" to 5/16"). For the record it was 9 1/2 turns.
But the belt is now rubbing the tire. Before the belt tracked on the outside edge of the rear pulley. Now it's tracking on the inside edge, and that tiny variance is enough to hit the tire.
I moved the left adjuster 1/2 a turn tighter, which should push the left edge toward the back and move the front of the wheel to the left, which should be away from the belt.
It did not seem to help.
Ideas ?
Jersey Big Mike
100K mile club
Yes, there is a spacer available that goes under the pulley on the wheel to move the pulley out just a hair -- Call Eric, or Donna at HDM they have it.
Brent Herridge
Active Member
i loosened everything, moved the belt over by hand, pulled the adjusters all the way out on both sides, moved back to proper belt tension (9 7/8 turns), and after a few revolutions, the belt moved back to the inside of the rear pulley and rubbed again.
But the weird thing this time is the wheel was tight after I torqued the axle. it's never done that before. Bearings were not changed this time, but I did them earlier this year.
??
But the weird thing this time is the wheel was tight after I torqued the axle. it's never done that before. Bearings were not changed this time, but I did them earlier this year.
??
Mr. Wright
Knows some things
You have the spacers in the wrong place. The one with the little lip goes against the bearing
Yep, the two on the break caliper side one has a lip the other is flat. Lips towards bearings, and that's both sides.
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Jersey Big Mike
100K mile club
Are you sure?
If I push the left side axle back further than the right side that is going to push that side of the axle back and create an angle that as I look at it moves the front of the rear wheel to the left and away from the belt on right side
This is what I think of with left side tightened more -- pushes axle back on left side. How would that make the belt closer?
Caught me! I made the post at 4am when I couldn't sleep and just wasn't thinking for the moment..lol adjuster is in the front of axle not the rear! I'll have to quit posting before I have any coffee from here on out!
Think this is the 2nd time you caught me on something Mike! I'll have to get better! But I'll keep an eye on you too! Haha
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Jersey Big Mike
100K mile club
Do you agree that he likely needs the spacer/shim that goes under the pulley to easily resolve/improve this.
Won't hurt to add it but if he doesn't need it then no point. Those shims are pretty thin but makes sense that some bikes are just a hair out off but still within the original tolerance limits and that's why they had to make them in the first place.
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Brent Herridge
Active Member
I was freaking out - the quote Mike has was no longer there. 
Thanks for tips on spacers. I did the right side one correct - must've done the brake side wrong.
Eric - how thick is the shim ? I figure I would need at least 1/8" or 1/4". And I presume it would come with a right side spacer that is shorter by the same distance, right ?
It's hard to imagine that something else is so out of whack that I'd need to move the left adjuster that much differently than the right to achieve a straight tire. But even though I did the same # of turns on both sides, it seems to have shifted from angled toward the left at the front of the tire and riding the outside of the rear pulley, to the opposite now - belt is on the inside of rear pulley and tire angled to the right up front.
The problem is the belt is riding on the left edge of the front pulley. When I loosed the wheel and pushed the belt over on the front pulley by hand, there was tons of clearance from the tire. But when the tightened belt runs it moves the front left and hits the tire.
Today I'll move the left adjuster enough to pull that belt over and see how far it has to go.
Rick - that was the coolest and nicest way you could comment on how many times it's taken me so far........and of course it was worse than I posted. I wanted to save some face and spare y'all the pain of reading about my pain.
Thanks for tips on spacers. I did the right side one correct - must've done the brake side wrong.
Eric - how thick is the shim ? I figure I would need at least 1/8" or 1/4". And I presume it would come with a right side spacer that is shorter by the same distance, right ?
It's hard to imagine that something else is so out of whack that I'd need to move the left adjuster that much differently than the right to achieve a straight tire. But even though I did the same # of turns on both sides, it seems to have shifted from angled toward the left at the front of the tire and riding the outside of the rear pulley, to the opposite now - belt is on the inside of rear pulley and tire angled to the right up front.
The problem is the belt is riding on the left edge of the front pulley. When I loosed the wheel and pushed the belt over on the front pulley by hand, there was tons of clearance from the tire. But when the tightened belt runs it moves the front left and hits the tire.
Today I'll move the left adjuster enough to pull that belt over and see how far it has to go.
Rick - that was the coolest and nicest way you could comment on how many times it's taken me so far........and of course it was worse than I posted. I wanted to save some face and spare y'all the pain of reading about my pain.
Lorenzo
Active Member
First, make sure there are no gouges or marks or dirt where the spacers sit against the swingarm side. They have to sit flat. Raise the wheel and adjust, spinning the wheel slowly forward and watching belt on the pulley. When you see the belt riding where you want it on the very lightly tighten the axle. Then tighten everything else. On some tires the belt will touch or rub on the sidewall. If it’s only rubbing slightly you can just shave the sidewall down. Some tires I’ve installed on customers big dogs had the sidewalls rub. I just take the square sander and lightly sand the edge.
Lorenzo
Active Member
But his primary chain would make a little noise also if that was the case. I came across that issue on someone’s 08 K9 about a year ago.
Jersey Big Mike
100K mile club
The shim is very thin -- but it goes between the hub and the pulley, does not touch the axle at all. No need for one on the other side. This does not widen the whole opening for the wheel (as bigger spacers would do) but moves the pulley a little to the right (away from tire).I was freaking out - the quote Mike has was no longer there.
Thanks for tips on spacers. I did the right side one correct - must've done the brake side wrong.
Eric - how thick is the shim ? I figure I would need at least 1/8" or 1/4". And I presume it would come with a right side spacer that is shorter by the same distance, right ?
But it is not very much. Hence why it is a shim and not a spacer. It's pretty thin, have one I haven't installed and will measure it for you if I can find it.
Mike
Brent Herridge
Active Member
Lorenzo makes sense - tranny that crooked would be doing other things.
Shim sounds too thin to really matter in my case.
I'll ensure things are clean when going through it again today. It's kinda hard to say how much additional clearance is needed to avoid the rub, so not sure if sanding would work. I've been adjusting the right side to the proper belt tension (3/8" movement at 10 lbs) and then making the same adjustment on the left side to match.
Wouldn't riding it shave it down as well ? I realize it would be tire + belt getting worn. I did discover some other marks on the outside of the belt. It's brand new so perhaps its normal wear. None of them were huge gouges like I had last time when it was slipping on the pulley and hitting the belt guard. But I removed the guard this time just in case........ It still makes no sense why that guard would have so little clearance. At the back mine is 1/8" or less from the belt and does not appear to be bent anywhere.
Shim sounds too thin to really matter in my case.
I'll ensure things are clean when going through it again today. It's kinda hard to say how much additional clearance is needed to avoid the rub, so not sure if sanding would work. I've been adjusting the right side to the proper belt tension (3/8" movement at 10 lbs) and then making the same adjustment on the left side to match.
Wouldn't riding it shave it down as well ? I realize it would be tire + belt getting worn. I did discover some other marks on the outside of the belt. It's brand new so perhaps its normal wear. None of them were huge gouges like I had last time when it was slipping on the pulley and hitting the belt guard. But I removed the guard this time just in case........ It still makes no sense why that guard would have so little clearance. At the back mine is 1/8" or less from the belt and does not appear to be bent anywhere.
I may have missed something here with adjusting for the rear wheel. Let me know if I am wrong here. Brent setting the set screws the same is OK to start with for proper tension, but the final adjustments for proper alignment may/will require you to move both set screws equally once you get close. What I have done is move 1-side in as many turns as the other side I would move out or until your alignment gets to where there will no wear on belt or tire. You must rotate the wheel counterclockwise for a few turn the turn clockwise for a few turns a couple of times to ensure the belt is not rubbing much in the clockwise movement. This is pretty much the same process we use with electric motors. Although I will admit the bike takes longer to get just right. Not sure if this is helpful, just my 2 cents worth.