Rear Wheel Alignment

[Brent Herridge]

I replaced my final drive belt before BBBBQ, but it continued to line the right side of the rear wheel with fine, black shavings. The bike has always done it, so I finally realized why - the belt was riding the outside edge of the rear pulley and was getting the edges shaved off.

Shannon suggested a micrometer to measure the distance from the swingarm opening for the axle to the front edge of the axle. I found this caliper at Freight Harbor for $18 and it did the trick. It barely reached in deep enough to measure the axle, given how deep its sunken on the left (bolt) side, but it worked.



Unfortunately I did not get pics of the fix, but the left side was 2 mm - our of 14 !! - further back than the right. That seems like the very thing that would push the belt to the outside of the pulley.

I loosened the axle, moved the adjustment screw (about 3/4 of a turn I think), hit the axle with a hammer/screwdriver to move it forward, and then tightened everything.

I only rode a few miles for a new inspection sticker, since the suspension rebuilt should start next weekend. I'll post pics of that, but so far no belt shavings...........

I'll keep you posted.

 

[HMAN]

Sounds like you and the Dog are getting better acquainted. Hope you have the fix. The more you do yourself (with forum help), the better you will know you machine. Great job Brent!

 

[Brent Herridge]

Thanks. I can't wait for the suspension fixes. It's been a real drag limping along.

Guess you hardtail guys don't have much sympathy.

 

[roadie1389]

What you doing now? Your air-ride broken?

 

[Brent Herridge]

Yep. Busted fork seal too.............both on Day 2 of the trip.

Fournalis shocks along with progressive fork springs + rebuild kit shipping from WSW hopefully in time to start work next weekend.

 

[Rottweiler]

Yep. Busted fork seal too.............both on Day 2 of the trip.

Fournalis shocks along with progressive fork springs + rebuild kit shipping from WSW hopefully in time to start work next weekend.

Take some pictures and post them as you do the work. Thanks in advance.

 

[Brent Herridge]

Will do.....as much as possible. The How-To documenters are amazing at how they do it. Not convenient at all when you're covered in grime and just want it over.

 

[HMAN]

Will do.....as much as possible. The How-To documenters are amazing at how they do it. Not convenient at all when you're covered in grime and just want it over.

Dont forget about Marky Marks awesome videos on the youtube. They may help ya in some small way.

 

[Brent Herridge]

i watched it. He gave credit to GasMan's write-up, which I also read. I saw a comment there that removing fork legs while on the bike is easier, which is what Shannon said also, and it makes sense now. Still looks like you have to remove the whole thing to get the new seals in and the oil back in though. I think I'll have to anyway since my forks screw directly into the Accutronix trees. I'll have to figure out how it works, but its smooth on top - no nuts/bolts on top of the trees.

 

[Th3InfamousI]

i watched it. He gave credit to GasMan's write-up, which I also read. I saw a comment there that removing fork legs while on the bike is easier, which is what Shannon said also, and it makes sense now. Still looks like you have to remove the whole thing to get the new seals in and the oil back in though. I think I'll have to anyway since my forks screw directly into the Accutronix trees. I'll have to figure out how it works, but its smooth on top - no nuts/bolts on top of the trees.

Measure your Fork Tubes when you get them off because you got longer than stock they must be +14 not the +12 but it will be good for you to write that down so you have it when you need it. Considering the length of your tubes your spacer SHOULD be longer than the stock spacer as well by the 2". So when you have everything apart write it all down and hang onto it for safe keeping!

Detailed logs will save you many hours down the road!! KEEP YO LOGS!

 

[Brent Herridge]

I remembered the + 14 Forks earlier so I called Curtis and told him about it so he's supposed to be including a 2-inch longer spacer. I'll keep you posted.

Thanks for the tip.

 

[Brent Herridge]

Update: Got the Fournales installed this weekend, so back on the road to test wheel alignment.

Not fixed.

Went about 140 miles Sunday, and even half way had some black dust on the rear wheel.

I'll re-check wheel alignment using above method and see if it moved, or perhaps wasn't right to begin with........

 

[TapioK]

You could measure the axle distances from the swing arm pivot point too, that is more accurate way. You have checked the wheel pushings are in correct sides? Swing arm bearing has no slack? does the bike wobble? One solution is to add like 3mm “shim” between the rear pulley and wheel, I believe Donna has them, or let someone make one for you. I don’t always trust our frames being exact , with the tolerances on belt tiny miss alignment can cause belt to rubber. I also learned the front pulleys are sometimes a slightly barrel shape, that can make belt travel left and right on it . usually in when reversing and out when riding....
now I just crap a beer and start waiting ppl to tell I’m wrong and frames have no tolerances and front pulley can’t be barrel
Oh, one more thing, you sure the dust is from belt and not from brake pads?

 

[Brent Herridge]

Definitely not brake dust. It's only on the right side, where the caliper is on the left. Agreed there is probably not micrometer-level precision anywhere. I replaced rear wheel bearings this year, and don't notice any wobble or slop in the swingarm. I'll play with it and see what happens........

 

[TapioK]

Definitely not brake dust. It's only on the right side, where the caliper is on the left. Agreed there is probably not micrometer-level precision anywhere. I replaced rear wheel bearings this year, and don't notice any wobble or slop in the swingarm. I'll play with it and see what happens........

Loose belt can also travel...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[Brent Herridge]

Mine is at the limits of tight since I changed it. Knothead gave me the measurement tool in AR and right at 1/4 to 5/16.

 

[Brent Herridge]

Installed the new Shinko rear tire, and thought I had the alignment perfectly balanced. I measured with the micrometer the length of the adjustment screw from the front of the opening to the end of the screw. It was perfect.

But after a couple of failed attempts to get the axle back correctly, I realized I have 2 problems.

First, the adjustment screws are turning when I install the locking screws. How to prevent this ?

More seriously, my spacer on the right side does not appear correct - there is a gap between the spacer and the pulley. It even slides easily back and forth on the axle.



I'm 99% sure nothing else fell off, I can't find any other parts, and it's not in my trunk (where I carried it to get the tire mounted).

It's not supposed to have that gap or move is it ?

I searched but could not find the an assembly diagram of the rear. If someone could post that it would really help.

Thanks !

 

[pknowles]

That doesn't look right

 

[Mickeetwo]

You should have 3 spacers, yea something is wrong

 

[Brent Herridge]

Found the diagram:

2006 Big Dog K9 Rear Wheel Spacers Parts Finder

Find the exact rear wheel spacers part you need for your 2006 K9 Big Dog Motorcycle using our easy to use part finder.

bigdogisback.com

Then found the missing spacer under the jack. Reassembly time...