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- Thread starter 1 B.M.F.
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Glowing pipe vs spark, to overheating of the legs than normal is to read the spark plug for a direction:
Rich: Black coating on the porcelain. Ignition too retarded. Sparks too late, has fuel residue that is unspent. Moving thru the stork cycle's, hot unspent fills the pipe on one end, fresh air on the other; the flame front continues inside the pipe. Heats up and glows. This is riding to cool the pipes, not sitting still for over 10 mins.
Lean: Kinetic heat + too lean a mixture: parts per million kind of heat exchange of gases; lack of fuel for cooling; it's something like a oxy/acetylene torch; you turn off the gas; run pure oxy; and acts the cutting torch kind of meltdown.
How to read a plug:
Follow the porcelain all the way down inside till it ends deep into the plug. That is the proper reading of a plug. Not the nose. But you need a special type plug reading tool. So being stuck looking at the nose of the porcelain, black can show a shinny liquid type residual for a retard condition...if... the tune always had the correct jetting, where nothing has changed fuel wise, now look for an ignition problem.
White or clean porcelain finish. Where that porcelain finish is going to melt like sand to glass and show a gloss, if not crack the porcelain at or near the center electrode.
Rich: Black coating on the porcelain. Ignition too retarded. Sparks too late, has fuel residue that is unspent. Moving thru the stork cycle's, hot unspent fills the pipe on one end, fresh air on the other; the flame front continues inside the pipe. Heats up and glows. This is riding to cool the pipes, not sitting still for over 10 mins.
Lean: Kinetic heat + too lean a mixture: parts per million kind of heat exchange of gases; lack of fuel for cooling; it's something like a oxy/acetylene torch; you turn off the gas; run pure oxy; and acts the cutting torch kind of meltdown.
How to read a plug:
Follow the porcelain all the way down inside till it ends deep into the plug. That is the proper reading of a plug. Not the nose. But you need a special type plug reading tool. So being stuck looking at the nose of the porcelain, black can show a shinny liquid type residual for a retard condition...if... the tune always had the correct jetting, where nothing has changed fuel wise, now look for an ignition problem.
White or clean porcelain finish. Where that porcelain finish is going to melt like sand to glass and show a gloss, if not crack the porcelain at or near the center electrode.
Eric Williams
Member
Here is my plugs with pictures, let me know what you think.
Sent from my Samsung Chromebook Pro using Tapatalk
What little I know about reading a plug, but days is bee you tea full. My eyes read:
1. First thing I look for are the oily threads heading up the plug. That/those plugs are perfect is one.
2. In no certain order, the carbon ring going around and hits the side electrode. Perfectly dry. Not shinny with oil. Reinforces the dry threads.
3. Side electrode is perfectly clean and that says no lean, nor rich burn.
4. Center electrode is square at the tabletop. Edges are not arc'd to a round edge.
5. Porcelain nose ends with a perfect tan color. Not white lean, not rich black.
I want that fucking engine!
1. First thing I look for are the oily threads heading up the plug. That/those plugs are perfect is one.
2. In no certain order, the carbon ring going around and hits the side electrode. Perfectly dry. Not shinny with oil. Reinforces the dry threads.
3. Side electrode is perfectly clean and that says no lean, nor rich burn.
4. Center electrode is square at the tabletop. Edges are not arc'd to a round edge.
5. Porcelain nose ends with a perfect tan color. Not white lean, not rich black.
I want that fucking engine!
Butch Cassidy
Active Member
I agree. Make sure to reinstall using anti-seize; the head is aluminum, the plug is steel. And before you take out a plug, blow some air on it to clear any debris out of the hole. Also, do the same just after you crack the threads... don’t want no foreign material going in that hole.
Ummm, the bike is how old? The plugs are original? I agree the electrolysis can seize the plugs to the head. But the break has been made, not a flavor of electro. I'd pass on the seize for a couple of reasons:
a. The apply is very little. Novice was when I caked it on. Race was when I was schooled for an ever so little dab on the first few threads.
b. But dry? It spins by hand without that packed in the threads. no cling of debris, and not having a hint of electro, it's when that happens you use it.
c. Ain't my bike but you call the ball with the suggestions.
a. The apply is very little. Novice was when I caked it on. Race was when I was schooled for an ever so little dab on the first few threads.
b. But dry? It spins by hand without that packed in the threads. no cling of debris, and not having a hint of electro, it's when that happens you use it.
c. Ain't my bike but you call the ball with the suggestions.