Questions about a Slam Button

Energy One

mittens

Well-Known Member
I have searched and lots of threads on which one for what bikes, and how they are cheap insurance.

My bike has one. So someone want to explain exactly how to use/ why?

I understand it allows you to manually push the silinoid in, But when you do this, does the starter make its own internal connection and sprin motor? (I think it does from my reading)

If if does make a new connection, what is different about this connection then hitting the starter normally? (Is it more powerful conection) How does this save your ass other then if the silanoid is stuck (like on a old car and you tap with a hammer to dislodge it)

My Bike is strait wired, with everything on the key, (Off, On, Start)

So would I just turn it to on and hit slam button? (i assume this will work IF it does make its on connection)

OR if its only for moving the silanoid, then I would have to hold slam button, and then turn key to start like normal.


I ask this cause the bike has a weaker battery (250 CCAs), would using the slam button make a difference when motor is hot? or just when something is messing up like the sillanoid?

The bike starts fine cold, but once hot it does not like that shitty battery the seller put in it... I plan to replace battery, just want to know the deal with the button as well
 

BBChopper

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mittens

Well-Known Member
I dont have a switch, just the key.... off / on / momentary start.


so does it make a better connection? or not. I can figure out if it works on its own easily, but want to know if it makes a difference or not
 

BBChopper

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I dont have a switch, just the key.... off / on / momentary start.
Don't know about the 04's and if they have compression releases maybe they are manual? If they are there try pushing them down with the key on see if they engage?? Without the run button just turn the key and start??
 

mittens

Well-Known Member
Pretty sure they have compression releases.

The Key works it all. Off is off.

Turn it to on, and lights, ignition and things work... to start just like a car, you twist a little further, and it juices the starter, when you let off, the key returns to the ON position.

The way I understand it most wire the Compression releases off the starter, so they activate at the same time.... But I dont know about the slam part
 

HMAN

I just like my Freedom
Supporting Member
Slam button is a backup in case the normal start procedure fails. Should the BDM controls fail, you can always start your bike. It shouldn't make any difference as it will draw the same amount of power to start. It sounds like the BDM controls are already out of the loop, so if your keyswitch should ever fail you should still be OK.
 

mittens

Well-Known Member
AH ok. so the button is not going to be any help ULESS the key fails.

its not a magical more powerfull connection for hot starts or weaker batterys.

it just bypasses all the shit that can break and jumpers the starter
 
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ChopperFred

Member
Mittens,

You mentioned that the previous owner had electrical issues (probably the dreaded EHC). It could be that's when he put the slam switch in place. Once the bike was rewired, he just left it there. Of course, the slam switch can still be used if for some reason your switch fails to send power to the solenoid or if the solenoid electromagnet fails to pull in the plunger.

That's what I did when my EHC was in its death throws. Occasionally it would not send power to the solenoid for starting although it would power the coil and the ignition module. I installed a slam switch just for those occasions. To start it, I would turn the key ON, then press the START button to activate the compression releases and at the same time press the slam switch. I eventually replaced the EHC with a Wire Plus unit and all is well.

When you return to Huntsville (where I live too) I'd like to see the bike.

Fred
 

mittens

Well-Known Member
My dad Tried to start it with key, and then Slam button and the bike would not crank again, this time cold...

So its probably just the weak / cheap ass battery.

Thanks for the info guys. If you know of, or have pic of the compression releases, That would be great as well. t
 

ChopperFred

Member
My dad Tried to start it with key, and then Slam button and the bike would not crank again, this time cold...

So its probably just the weak / cheap ass battery.

Thanks for the info guys. If you know of, or have pic of the compression releases, That would be great as well. t
You can do an easy test of the compression releases. First determine if they are free to move by pressing down on them and see if they spring back. They are located under the white rubbery cover in the middle of each rocket box. Next you can test if the electrical system is activating them. Unplug the green wire to the starter so the engine doesn't turn over. Then go through your normal start procedure. When you hit the START button you should hear them click. You can also put you finger on each one to feel them activate in addition to hearing them. I've replaced the compression release on both the front and rear cylinder on my '04 chopper after they had frozen in place from years of use.
 

BroadBand

Since late 60's

wrench

Member
its not the relay that causes the intermittent failure in the starting system. its the ehc. electric harness control. just wire the relay in by bypassing the harness control so the starting system is independent from the ehc.
wire the relay outside the ehc. so it does not plug into the ehc at all.
locate the black/ red striped wire coming off the handle bar control starter button where it comes out of the harness from the right side of the handle bars into the ehc. it will be right at the top of the ehc .cut it so it no longer goes into the ehc. instead it goes to the 86 terminal on the relay from the start button.. run a ground wire for #85 terminal on the relay.. run a hot wire that comes on with the key switch to terminal 30 on the relay. number 87 at the top of the relay goes to the starter. it will be a thicker red wire that comes form the starter into the bottom of the ehc. cut it where it goes into the ehc and hook the piece that goes to the starter to the 87 terminal. now you have a start system independent of the ehc. on/off kill switch.. starter button and power on when the key is on will all work correctly.
on the relay
30 is the hot
85 is the ground
86 is power in from the button
87 is power out to starter
holding the relay so you are looking down at the terminal blades..
turn it so you are looking down at two blades horizontal at the top and 2 or 3 blades vertical across the bottom. the two horizontal blades at top - 87 is the top blade. 30 is the 2nd blade down from the top. the 2 or 3 vertical at the bottom - the far left is 86. the far right is 85. some relays have 2 some 3. if it has 3 ignore the middle one because it is not used. hopes this helps.
 

BroadBand

Since late 60's
its not the relay that causes the intermittent failure in the starting system. its the ehc. electric harness control. just wire the relay in by bypassing the harness control so the starting system is independent from the ehc.
wire the relay outside the ehc. so it does not plug into the ehc at all.
locate the black/ red striped wire coming off the handle bar control starter button where it comes out of the harness from the right side of the handle bars into the ehc. it will be right at the top of the ehc .cut it so it no longer goes into the ehc. instead it goes to the 86 terminal on the relay from the start button.. run a ground wire for #85 terminal on the relay.. run a hot wire that comes on with the key switch to terminal 30 on the relay. number 87 at the top of the relay goes to the starter. it will be a thicker red wire that comes form the starter into the bottom of the ehc. cut it where it goes into the ehc and hook the piece that goes to the starter to the 87 terminal. now you have a start system independent of the ehc. on/off kill switch.. starter button and power on when the key is on will all work correctly.
on the relay
30 is the hot
85 is the ground
86 is power in from the button
87 is power out to starter
holding the relay so you are looking down at the terminal blades..
turn it so you are looking down at two blades horizontal at the top and 2 or 3 blades vertical across the bottom. the two horizontal blades at top - 87 is the top blade. 30 is the 2nd blade down from the top. the 2 or 3 vertical at the bottom - the far left is 86. the far right is 85. some relays have 2 some 3. if it has 3 ignore the middle one because it is not used. hopes this helps.
+

 

mittens

Well-Known Member
So, back to this cause I happen to play with it.

Key off, push slam button and nothing.
Key on, push slam button and nothing.

So is its JUST the phisical moving of the silanoid? no electrical connection?

Is the slam button adjust properly? There is an adjustment screw inside the cover for it to make full contact.
 
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mittens

Well-Known Member
mine is a 107, with electric compression releases.

and the battery works fine with the key, and the starter works fine with the key.

I am literaly just playing with it to see how it works.
 

Raywood

The Pirate
Staff member
Calendar Participant
Troop Supporter
It's not making full contact so adjust it properly and it should work fine
 
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