Question about S+S super G carb

[DanzDawg]

Hello big dog people, long time stalker here. Im still riding the 06 K9, Question for you guys, ( Can you replace the accelerator pump parts while the carb is still installed on the bike?) tiny check balls and springs look like it could be challenge, especially with fat fingers, anyone succeed in doing this? tips, tricks, input appreciated. thanks. reason i need to do this is i have very little travel of the pump rod, so its not getting its squirt- for lack of a better term

 

[Mr. Wright]

I learned a long time ago to not say it can't be done. But yes that would be a challenge to change that with the little balls and springs

 

[HMAN]

Not too hard to pull the entire carb off anyways....

 

[DanzDawg]

Thanks guys, i kinda figured it was wise to remove the carb to get it done. especially with 59 year old eyes and hands. Thanks again. Dan

 

[Mickmorris]

Seriously if you are going to work on the accelerator pump... just do the entire carb. It’s worth it to take it all apart and clean everything. But yeah if one of those little ball bearings gets away, they are tough to find on the floor. Ask me how I know... lol

 

[squat]

I’ve done it several times ‘on the bike’, while trying different intermediate jets. undo the 4 screws holding the float bowl on, the guts of the accelerator pump will come with the bowl, don’t turn it upside down!! As I recall, there are two teensy springs, but only one checkball. “On the bike” you can maybe see why the acc. pump plunger isn’t working, might be the cable adjustment, not the pump. Taking the whole carb off ain’t all that easy IMHO , but I’ll admit one of the 4 floatbowl screws it a little hidden, and the long one is one of the 3 that holds the acc. pump bottom on. Clark

 

[Mickmorris]

I’ve done it several times ‘on the bike’, while trying different intermediate jets. undo the 4 screws holding the float bowl on, the guts of the accelerator pump will come with the bowl, don’t turn it upside down!! As I recall, there are two teensy springs, but only one checkball. “On the bike” you can maybe see why the acc. pump plunger isn’t working, might be the cable adjustment, not the pump. Taking the whole carb off ain’t all that easy IMHO , but I’ll admit one of the 4 floatbowl screws it a little hidden, and the long one is one of the 3 that holds the acc. pump bottom on. Clark

Actually two little ball bearings & 1 spring. I personally thought it was a pretty easy process to do the entire carb.

 

[Chong]

Food for thought .

When I was doing my G carb someone suggested using a feeler gauge .?

So while rebuilding off bike I concluded it may have been should I had left it on bike ?

Dont connect the dots real fast sometimes .

Good luck !

 

[john sachs]

Feeler gauge method is a walk in the park. Although I wouldn't try rebuilding the accel pump with the carb on the bike.
John

 

[Mickmorris]

Food for thought .

When I was doing my G carb someone suggested using a feeler gauge .?

So while rebuilding off bike I concluded it may have been should I had left it on bike ?

Dont connect the dots real fast sometimes .

Good luck !

Pretty sure the feeler gauge is for the reassembly process. And can be done with carb off the bike. Just holds everything in while you put the cover & screws back on the accelerator pump. I think... lol!

 

[Chong]

Feeler gauge method is a walk in the park. Although I wouldn't try rebuilding the accel pump with the carb on the bike.
John

Yeah not much to remove carb .

Probably way less then the frustration of an on bike attempt. If even possible ?

 

[DanzDawg]

Thanks again for the input, i will prob. just pull it and go through it with a kit, was also concerned with the spacer/gasket between the carb and intake. I suppose this should also be replaced, maybe it is in a rebuild kit. did a quick search but didnt see a replacement available. the accelerator pump rod will slide smoothly up and down using my fingers but when it makes contact on the way down to prime/push it will travel about 1/8 of an inch and stop, so no prime. even using a small screw driver, im thinking a spring broke and wont let it travel for a squirt. So let me ask, is this something Donna,Derek would have or do i go to S+S for parts?

 

[DanzDawg]

OK answered my own question on the parts, looks like JP and Dennis kirk have what i need, S+S is out of stock. I put in a lot of hours in at work but in the next week, prob more like two i'll get it done. let you know how it went. appreciate the help and have a good weekend.

 

[Mickmorris]

Thanks again for the input, i will prob. just pull it and go through it with a kit, was also concerned with the spacer/gasket between the carb and intake. I suppose this should also be replaced, maybe it is in a rebuild kit. did a quick search but didnt see a replacement available. the accelerator pump rod will slide smoothly up and down using my fingers but when it makes contact on the way down to prime/push it will travel about 1/8 of an inch and stop, so no prime. even using a small screw driver, im thinking a spring broke and wont let it travel for a squirt. So let me ask, is this something Donna,Derek would have or do i go to S+S for parts?

In all reality you shouldn’t need to take the carb loose from the intake. You will basically be taking the entire bottom off. You will need the S&S kit from Dennis Kirk. They also sell the jet kits if you think the jets need to be changed. There is a really good video on YouTube to watch that shows the teardown and cleaning & rebuild. Type in S&S carburetor EASY WAY to CLEAN and REBUILD Super E & G. The guy doing the video does a really good job on the entire process. Like 20 minute vid.

 

[Mickmorris]

OK answered my own question on the parts, looks like JP and Dennis kirk have what i need, S+S is out of stock. I put in a lot of hours in at work but in the next week, prob more like two i'll get it done. let you know how it went. appreciate the help and have a good weekend.

Go to AutoZone or Discount Auto & get some of this for cleaning all the parts. Works fantastic.

 

[DanzDawg]

Thanks, that exactly what i did. pulled the bowl with acc. pump intact, sprayed it down with cleaner and some compressed air then replaced the acc. pump parts. the rest of the carb looked pretty clean. reinstalled everything warmed it up and made some adjustments on the road and it is running strong again. looked like ethanol fuel may have been part of the problem, acc. pump diaphragm was whipped. It"ll be nice to get it out and get some seat time again. thanks for the input, you guys are a great source of knowledge and much appreciated.