Pushrods

05 old dog · Jan 16, 2012

wish i could help but thats a new one on me...somebody will be along shortly...

Little-Boo · Jan 16, 2012

shitbird said:
Ok I have read everything on here watched the video and decided to tackle this one on my own. I got them all adjusted , used the mark on th flywheel for the front cylinder. Did the back cylinder they all bled down fine. I did the 3 turns waited for bleed down then tightened up the nut.

Whats weird is the bike ran great then about 20 mins into riding it started idling real high with no power at all! I swear I have no luck with working on this bike.

Maybe you should change your Name :lol: :roll:

As for the adjustment of the push rods, the S&S manual calls for 4 full turn or 24 Flats. Three turns to me is not giving the cam the full potential as to how long the intake and exhaust valve stays open. I prefer the 4 turns but that is just me. I don't use any turns on mine, I use the Hydro Solid lifters so my adjustment is different. But when I had the stock and 600 cam I always went with the 4 turns.

No power, in what way like out of gas or just reviving high and no go. Need more info on that. Did you make sure the valve was in the close position (lifter all the way down) which would be the back side of cam lob or did you just use the TDC mark and adjust all you valves from that point. :loony: Let us know the steps you took to make the adjustments.

Carlos :2thumbs:

05 old dog · Jan 16, 2012

i think that would be your voltage regulator...and by tightning them did you just lock them down with jam nuts right,,,no more adjusting...

Little-Boo · Jan 16, 2012

shitbird said:
Ok, I used the marking in the flywheel only for the front push-rods. The rear I turned the rear wheel til the opposing was all the way up then adjusted it, waited for it to bleed down all spun freely with my fingers when I adjusted them. After they bled down i tightened them. Did the same with all of them.
The bike started high idling around 1500 rpms and had no power at all thankfully I was right near the house.
The only other thing I could think it might be is I smacked the rectifier? Pretty hard on a speed bump and mashed half of the fins in? I think that is what it's called

Well the best way to adjust valves is one valve at time and not one cylinder at a time. For example if you place you bike in 5th or 6th gear and rotate the rear wheel, keep you eyes one the rear exhaust valve, when that is at the top of its travel you adjust the front exhaust. You adjust it by loosening the push rod one full turn and then adjust it to 0 lash by hand (which mean the push rod is now touching the tappet). Then turn it 4 full turns and tighten the lock, wait about 10 minutes for it to bleed down and Turn you rear wheel again keep an eye out for the rear intake valve when that is at the top of its travel stop and adjust the front intake valve. same way you did the exhaust valve. Then you go and adjust the rear by looking at the front intake when that is at the top of its travel stop and adjust the rear intake and same for the rear exhaust.

You do know that the valve farthest to the right or front of bike as you look at it is the exhaust followed by the intake on the inside. In other word the two out side are exhaust and the two inside are the intake.

I hope that helps, if that is not the way you did it then don't start you dog until you get it right or you will cause some serious valve damage (bent valves will give you lose of power because of lack of compression).

Good Luck

Carlos

Raywood · Jan 16, 2012

shitbird said:
Hey 1stSgt thanks for the info! Former SSgt here... I did do it by opposing... I did exhaust first both cylinders the intake both cylinders . I just used the TDC marking for the front cylinder. Well I'll try it again tommorrow after the engin is cold hopefully I will have better luck! Semper fi

No matter how good or bad they are adjusted it's not going to effect your idle. Are you sure you didn't accidentally pull up on the enricher

:cheers:

V · Jan 16, 2012

Raywood said:
No matter how good or bad they are adjusted it's not going to effect your idle. Are you sure you didn't accidentally pull up on the enricher

Good call!

X-ray Doc · Jan 16, 2012

I would raise the tube covers again and check to see if any of the pushrods are really loose, if so you were on the exhaust stroke and not the compression stroke when you started. This would explain the top end noise and no power. The "T" mark will show in
the window on both the compression and exhaust stroke TDC, you need the T with both valves closed, compression stroke.

Little-Boo · Jan 17, 2012

shitbird said:
Hey 1stSgt thanks for the info! Former SSgt here... I did do it by opposing... I did exhaust first both cylinders the intake both cylinders . I just used the TDC marking for the front cylinder. Well I'll try it again tommorrow after the engin is cold hopefully I will have better luck! Semper fi

Hey man follow up on what X-Ray Doc said, that is a good point that I did not mention to you. I always assume that most people know what TDC is.

Good luck and if you have other question pop them on here someone will get you going again'

Carlos :whoop:

erldawg · Jan 17, 2012

Little-Boo said:
Well the best way to adjust valves is one valve at time and not one cylinder at a time. For example if you place you bike in 5th or 6th gear and rotate the rear wheel, keep you eyes one the rear exhaust valve, when that is at the top of its travel you adjust the front exhaust. You adjust it by loosening the push rod one full turn and then adjust it to 0 lash by hand (which mean the push rod is now touching the tappet). Then turn it 4 full turns and tighten the lock, wait about 10 minutes for it to bleed down and Turn you rear wheel again keep an eye out for the rear intake valve when that is at the top of its travel stop and adjust the front intake valve. same way you did the exhaust valve. Then you go and adjust the rear by looking at the front intake when that is at the top of its travel stop and adjust the rear intake and same for the rear exhaust.

You do know that the valve farthest to the right or front of bike as you look at it is the exhaust followed by the intake on the inside. In other word the two out side are exhaust and the two inside are the intake.

I hope that helps, if that is not the way you did it then don't start you dog until you get it right or you will cause some serious valve damage (bent valves will give you lose of power because of lack of compression).

Good Luck

Carlos

This is how I adjust the valves on the bike.....Take the spark plugs out makes turning it over easier. If you have alot of top end noise then the valves may be loose re-check them.

05 old dog · Jan 18, 2012

cool...glad you found it and thanks for keeping us posted...

Little-Boo · Jan 18, 2012

Good Job on the Push rods now you are ready to take it apart and do the whole engine should it fail on you. :2thumbs:

Carlos :cheers:

Brew · Jan 18, 2012

Great to hear you got the scoot going...:2thumbs:

spadesluck · Jan 18, 2012

When I did mine I hade the same thing happen to me, they went loose on my almost right away. When adjusting them we really need to tighten them down good. Glad you figured it out. Sucks to have a nice bike to look at and not ride.

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