Pushrod slightly bent

[francoblay1]

I just noticed my rear cylinder exhaust push-rod is slightly bent (I think it has been me while undoing the locking nut :bang: ) ... I re-adjusted all at 4 turns and all seem fine...

I will be ordering a set of quickies soon and change them all.

Can I ride with this slightly bent push-rod???? I have five days left till I will be back at home in March... and it is sunny and 25 Celsius!!!!

Thanks.

 

[pknowles]

I wouldn't, seems like it would want to wobble. this could lead to a rats nest of problems. Rent a Harley for the rest of the time or until you get the new pushrods. I don't think you would have bent a pushrod with a 7/16th wrench

 

[francoblay1]

I wouldn't, seems like it would want to wobble. this could lead to a rats nest of problems. Rent a Harley for the rest of the time or until you get the new pushrods. I don't think you would have bent a pushrod with a 7/16th wrench

Arrrrghhhhhhh !!!!!!!! :bang::bang::bang:

 

[Trainguy]

I wouldn't, seems like it would want to wobble. this could lead to a rats nest of problems. Rent a Harley for the rest of the time or until you get the new pushrods. I don't think you would have bent a pushrod with a 7/16th wrench

Ya i'm going with Paul on this one.

 

[francoblay1]

Update.... on Idle only fires the front cylinder.... if I rev it up the rear cylinder catches up but throws flames (No exhaust pipes fitted at the moment) I am starting to get nervous...

I adjusted the pushrods twice.... first time: when both pushrods in the front cylinder were moving up&down together I adjusted the rear cylinder and vice versa...

I was not happy with the noise.

Second time: when rear exhaust open adjusted front exhaust and vice-versa, same for intakes...

 

[Th3InfamousI]

I would only imagine it gets bent if you over-tightened it. Can't imagine you bent it just turning the locking nut?

Have you been riding it and now it's not firing on rear cyl? No Exhaust pipes? Huh?

 

[francoblay1]

I would only imagine it gets bent if you over-tightened it. Can't imagine you bent it just turning the locking nut?

Have you been riding it and now it's not firing on rear cyl? No Exhaust pipes? Huh?

No, not riding... just fired it up in the garage after the second push rod adjustment and before reinstalling the exhaust.

I am going to do the push rods again my fingers are sore from those push rod covers... man the rear ones are hard to get back in! :bang:

 

[francoblay1]

One more thing... yes they are finger loose after bleeding down.

Could it be that exhaust bent rod in the rear cylinder not closing properly and thats why it throw flames when it catches up? remember, on ideling the rear cylinder does nothing... only when I give it a bit of throttle.

 

[bigdogtech01]

You should not be running the motor with no exhaust!! If you have a bent pushrod, you might have something major that caused this. Not firing on rear cyl could be a bent valve. Correct me if I'm wrong, but you still have the old tp rocker boxes right?

 

[francoblay1]

You should not be running the motor with no exhaust!! If you have a bent pushrod, you might have something major that caused this. Not firing on rear cyl could be a bent valve. Correct me if I'm wrong, but you still have the old tp rocker boxes right?

right, TP boxes.

 

[bigdogtech01]

Why were you adjusting them? Was it only running on one cyl before?
No reason to adjust your pushrods unless you have changed something such as...Cam, Lifters, other motor work.

 

[francoblay1]

No reason, just done a maintenance day... changed all fluids, etc, and then I decided to adjust the pushrods just to make sure they were fine since I done the cam change last year...

You think changing the pushrods (getting rid of the bent one) will comeback to life?

 

[RRRUFF]

You should not be running the motor with no exhaust!! If you have a bent pushrod, you might have something major that caused this. Not firing on rear cyl could be a bent valve. Correct me if I'm wrong, but you still have the old tp rocker boxes right?

I with Andrew! Do not run any more until you check it out. Pull rocker box cover and inspect rocker arm. You could have bent valve or worn out valve guide. Either way don't run it until you know.

 

[Dawgboy]

Update.... on Idle only fires the front cylinder.... if I rev it up the rear cylinder catches up but throws flames (No exhaust pipes fitted at the moment) I am starting to get nervous...

I adjusted the pushrods twice.... first time: when both pushrods in the front cylinder were moving up&down together I adjusted the rear cylinder and vice versa...

I was not happy with the noise.

Second time: when rear exhaust open adjusted front exhaust and vice-versa, same for intakes...

Franco

I adjust both rods for a given cylinder when the piston in that cylinder is at top of the stroke (both valves closed). I just prefer to focus on one cylinder at a time. I would think a bent pushrod could cause uneven wear on the rocker arm.

 

[francoblay1]

Can´t see anything wrong... do you?

 

[Olde Man]

Just Sayin

There are two points in the cycle when it appears that both valves are on the seats. Only one is ok to adjust the push rods. The cycle goes like this.

Exhaust stroke: The exhaust valve is opening and the piston is rising to the top.
Intake Stroke: The intake valve is opening and the piston is going down.
Compression Stroke: The intake is going closed and the piston is rising.
Power Stroke: The valves are closed and the piston is moving down.

Both valves are only truely closed between the compression stroke and the power stroke when the piston is at the top. It looks like they are closed when the piston is at the top between the intake and the exhaust stroke but they are both open due to the camshaft overlap.
Understand what you are doing and why you are doing it and stay out of trouble.

 

[bigdogtech01]

So you did not have a running issue till you adjusted them?
You might not have adjusted them correctly and somehow bent one while turning the motor over. Adjustment is very easy and no need to find the TDC and all that. While looking at all your pushrods and tubes up so you can see them move up and down, turn motor over till one lifter is all the way up and the other is all the way down. The one that is all the way down is the one you will be adjusting your 4 turns.
So, if you are starting with intakes, place front intake lifter so it's all the way up and rear will be all the way down, adjust your rear. Wait for lifter to bleed down till you can roll it between your fingers with very little effort.
Now do the front intake, rear all the way up and front all the way down.
Same way for the Exhaust lifters.
It's usually quick and easy this way.
If you have a bent rod for sure, then it needs to be replaced. A set of the standard S&S are only $100. Wish this had happened before I sent you the other parts last week :bang:
You already have the rocker covers off, so might as well just put standard ones back in IMO.
Also, you do not need to adjust the pushrods normally for maintenance. Just an FYI for the future.
Aslo, might be a good time to replace your lifters as long as the Pushrods have to come out. One might have bent because a lifter has failed. S&S lifters are not that great. A good upgrade is Feuling lifters and they are less $$

 

[francoblay1]

There are two points in the cycle when it appears that both valves are on the seats. Only one is ok to adjust the push rods. The cycle goes like this.

Exhaust stroke: The exhaust valve is opening and the piston is rising to the top.
Intake Stroke: The intake valve is opening and the piston is going down.
Compression Stroke: The intake is going closed and the piston is rising.
Power Stroke: The valves are closed and the piston is moving down.

Both valves are only truely closed between the compression stroke and the power stroke when the piston is at the top. It looks like they are closed when the piston is at the top between the intake and the exhaust stroke but they are both open due to the camshaft overlap.
Understand what you are doing and why you are doing it and stay out of trouble.

John, PM sent. thank you

 

[francoblay1]

So you did not have a running issue till you adjusted them?
You might not have adjusted them correctly and somehow bent one while turning the motor over. Adjustment is very easy and no need to find the TDC and all that. While looking at all your pushrods and tubes up so you can see them move up and down, turn motor over till one lifter is all the way up and the other is all the way down. The one that is all the way down is the one you will be adjusting your 4 turns.
So, if you are starting with intakes, place front intake lifter so it's all the way up and rear will be all the way down, adjust your rear. Wait for lifter to bleed down till you can roll it between your fingers with very little effort.
Now do the front intake, rear all the way up and front all the way down.
Same way for the Exhaust lifters.
It's usually quick and easy this way.
If you have a bent rod for sure, then it needs to be replaced. A set of the standard S&S are only $100. Wish this had happened before I sent you the other parts last week :bang:
You already have the rocker covers off, so might as well just put standard ones back in IMO.
Also, you do not need to adjust the pushrods normally for maintenance. Just an FYI for the future.
Aslo, might be a good time to replace your lifters as long as the Pushrods have to come out. One might have bent because a lifter has failed. S&S lifters are not that great. A good upgrade is Feuling lifters and they are less $$

Thanks Andrew. :2thumbs: I will keep you posted.

2300 hrs here already... had enough.... tomorrow morning I will engage again :up:

 

[john sachs]

Franco,Franco,Franco,
How bad is it bent ? Does it slightly wobble when you spin it, or is it noticeably bent ?
If it is noticeably bent, take a compression test. If compression is even slightly low(15 lbs. less than the other cylinder) then do a leakdown, and listen for the air escaping from the intake(carb) or exhaust.
John