Pulled the trigger on 03 Boxer Few questions
- Thread starter mittens
- Start date
Chong
U-235
Woops, sorry
These may be useful in figuring out your wiring/EHC issue. 
mittens
Well-Known Member
Well between 15 & 8 I have no continuity, then hit rear brake & I have it. So wireing to the rear brake switch, & the rear brake switch work, diagram shows it should be 3 & 8 but that's not right. Using both oranges that's 15 & 8 some of the dead holes are wrong from bike to that diagram. But colors & connectors seem to be correct tracing stuff. So that's good.
So switch, & wiring from rear brake to ECH good.
ECH to tai lights... the running lights work. So ground & low voltage are good, & blinkers work (high voltage). So wiring to rear LEDS & the LEDS them selves work.
So ECH has crapped out on the brake lights only? Any thing else fuse or something that could cause this?
Of all the things that can fail. Ha need that one. So I could cut rear switch out. & rear lights & give them 12v low for key on, & 12v high when rear brake switch hits.. this would make that work but then leave the rest of the ECH. But does the ECH just start taking random dumps? Give up on it all the way?
So switch, & wiring from rear brake to ECH good.
ECH to tai lights... the running lights work. So ground & low voltage are good, & blinkers work (high voltage). So wiring to rear LEDS & the LEDS them selves work.
So ECH has crapped out on the brake lights only? Any thing else fuse or something that could cause this?
Of all the things that can fail. Ha need that one. So I could cut rear switch out. & rear lights & give them 12v low for key on, & 12v high when rear brake switch hits.. this would make that work but then leave the rest of the ECH. But does the ECH just start taking random dumps? Give up on it all the way?
mittens
Well-Known Member
Anyone have the description of J5 connector?
So P4 the orange # 8 is 12v feed to the rear brake switch. Orange number 3 is the retuning 12v once pedal pressure happens...
The ecu combines the 12v brake return, or the turn signal & sends it to that single wire to each rear tail.
think I am going to connect the 12v return from brake switch to the violet & brown turn/ brake signal. This bypasses ECU. & should make rear brake lights work off rear brake switch. Can always tie in front if want to, but just want to get it working with out replacing ECH as I will probably customize the bars & stuff anyway so strait wire at some point.
any thoughts on the ECH 12v power for rear switch feeding the 2 rear brake LED?
So P4 the orange # 8 is 12v feed to the rear brake switch. Orange number 3 is the retuning 12v once pedal pressure happens...
The ecu combines the 12v brake return, or the turn signal & sends it to that single wire to each rear tail.
think I am going to connect the 12v return from brake switch to the violet & brown turn/ brake signal. This bypasses ECU. & should make rear brake lights work off rear brake switch. Can always tie in front if want to, but just want to get it working with out replacing ECH as I will probably customize the bars & stuff anyway so strait wire at some point.
any thoughts on the ECH 12v power for rear switch feeding the 2 rear brake LED?
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mittens
Well-Known Member
So tried wire jumpers from the back from Orange#8, going to the #7 Violet and #4 Brown for brake/turns. And it works. Pic if of the test jumpers, can't leave them open like that. Once proof of concept worked, I used wire taps, & a jumper wire so nothing can Arch. Front brake and rear brake switch both work the rear lights.... So wire tapped them together so I did not have to cut the wiring harness.. all is working. Only thing that does not work is turn signals, as the rears are now tied together (they both flash with either signal). Fronts work normal.
But was going to delete the fronts anyway and if I hard wire the bike those are gone as well. So for the time being this works and everything is back under seat. Horn, Low/High, Start, Run, Running lights and both brake lights. and front turns still work. and I did not cut any wires. Time will tell if this is an issue, or if anything else with the ECH comes next. But I would rather hard wire bike then spend 550 on a ECH and be stuck with this wiring and controls.
Also got new Plug wires in, and Handle bar riser bushings. They move bars up some and gauge face more viewable. No more rocking of the bars. Also got title in male today so Rode it to DMV and got its tag. So its should be good for some more testing. Main leak was Sator plug.... I have patched that with some Black RTV. But think the primary gasket is leaking some anyway. So will Remove inner and outter, clean it all rear good and seal stator from inside, then new gaskets kit from Curtis should have it dry and clean.
But was going to delete the fronts anyway and if I hard wire the bike those are gone as well. So for the time being this works and everything is back under seat. Horn, Low/High, Start, Run, Running lights and both brake lights. and front turns still work. and I did not cut any wires. Time will tell if this is an issue, or if anything else with the ECH comes next. But I would rather hard wire bike then spend 550 on a ECH and be stuck with this wiring and controls.
Also got new Plug wires in, and Handle bar riser bushings. They move bars up some and gauge face more viewable. No more rocking of the bars. Also got title in male today so Rode it to DMV and got its tag. So its should be good for some more testing. Main leak was Sator plug.... I have patched that with some Black RTV. But think the primary gasket is leaking some anyway. So will Remove inner and outter, clean it all rear good and seal stator from inside, then new gaskets kit from Curtis should have it dry and clean.
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mittens
Well-Known Member
Thanks! The paint is still bad on tank but that can all be addressed. Over all not too bad, rides excellent, handles good. Possibly some taller bars, deleted front turn signals. But the key hear was cheap second bike to play with. It fit that goal. But I will say it's really sporty around town, can toss it around.
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mittens
Well-Known Member
Pulled carb to check jetting, mod air bleed.
Drilled out factory 0.040 fixed air bleed. Tapped 5/16-24, installed main jet 0.050 for new air bleed.
Jetting wise bike has a 0.031 intermediate, & a 0.076 main jet currently. Will see how the 0.010 air bleed change affects it at lunch.
Drilled out factory 0.040 fixed air bleed. Tapped 5/16-24, installed main jet 0.050 for new air bleed.
Jetting wise bike has a 0.031 intermediate, & a 0.076 main jet currently. Will see how the 0.010 air bleed change affects it at lunch.
mittens
Well-Known Member
Tried a 0.033 inter jet. At 60mph barely cracking throttle 0.031 seemed flat/ dead till you gave it just little more throttle. The 0.033 liked it better for sure zero dead spots
Stepped down to a 0.032 & it seems the be the best zero dead spots, So leaving this bike at 0.032/0.076 /with 0.050 air bleed.
Stepped down to a 0.032 & it seems the be the best zero dead spots, So leaving this bike at 0.032/0.076 /with 0.050 air bleed.