popping on decel

Cody

Member
is popping on decel a problem? I am looking at a bike to purchase its a 2006 k9 and i was told it has a pretty loud bark on decel is this something I should be worried about?

It has a spike air cleaner and v&h exhuast. I haven't personally gotten to ride it so I haven't heard it first hand just going off what the guy thats selling it told me. I have heard it run and it sounds good, but no chance to actually hear decel.
 

Brew

Troop Supporter
It's not a problem, its a sign the scoot maybe be running a little lean... Easy way to know is to pull the plugs and see...
 

Trainguy

Chromeoholic
Yup Yup on all the above. It is something that can be fixed or minimized with the right combo of parts. Jets etc. don't let it stop you from takin' a close look at the bike. There are guys & gals on here that will talk you through any problems:2thumbs:
 

alphadog

Active Member
My 07 K-9 has the spike and V&H radius. Pops like a mother on decel. I changed the exhaust gaskets. Tried doubling em up too. Changed the carb gasket. Still pops.
 

woodbutcher

Mr. Old Fart member #145
Staff member
My 07 K-9 has the spike and V&H radius. Pops like a mother on decel. I changed the exhaust gaskets. Tried doubling em up too. Changed the carb gasket. Still pops.
same here except for the spike and the plugs are just as sweet of a tan color as you could want.
 

CCRainman

Well-Known Member
You can start at the intake, they are know not to seat properly. While the bike is running spay a little wd40 where the y-pipe connects to your carb. If the bike stumbles then you know you have a leake there. The other thing has already been mentioned which is the lean condition.
 

BigDogBro1

Made in the USA
I understand that V&H 2 into 2 exhaust don't have a history of deceleration popping unless there are tuning or leakages in the intake or exhaust.
 

lee

Well-Known Member
a well tuned, raletively open (good) set of pipes will pop on decel, especially when closing the throttle from high rpms because of the momentary leanness from going from main / inter to idle circuit in a short space of time. Doesn't necessarily mean its running lean at all - might be spot on. If it's real excessive then exhaust leak is probably the cause
 

lee

Well-Known Member
by the way - a pretty good way to check for an exhaust leak is to spray some carb cleaner in and rev it a bit - this usually produces some black smoke and you'll see it exit between the header pipe and the head
 

myblackhd

Member
You can also check that the pipes are seated and tight so there is no air leak.

Another plug guide Spark Plugs
I also have some heavy popping on decel with the Vance & Hines 2 into 1. I started out replacing the jet from a 76 to a 78 with no change so I looked at the exhaust side and found what I hope is the problem. I bought a pair of gaskets to replace the existing ones and then unbolted the head connections. Went back to the exhaust mounting to disconnect it and found a crack across the entire body of the mount. The exhaust could be slightly lifted at the rear mount. I'm figuring that the exhaust has been jumping around for a while and has lost the seal at the heads. Trying to find a welder to fix the mount (it's the holiday weekend....need it fixed) and will then replace the gaskets. Here's hoping that it does the job.
 

HMAN

I just like my Freedom
Supporting Member
Hey Cody here's a post from a member that may help to explain decel pop. Credit to BigDogBro1.

What is exhaust popping?

Well baring any exhaust header leaks, read this and become a better mechanic.



Burn Baby Burn- Pulled from the VTXOA.com forum

The last thing I want to address today is the subject of deceleration backfire, or “popping”. This topic generates a lot of concern from inexperienced riders, or even from experienced guys who just hate the noise, so lets take a look at what causes it. But first things first, lets define the issue:

Deceleration Backfire is caused by fuel burning in the exhaust manifold or header.

No ifs ands or buts, that’s what causes it. But the bigger question is how does gas get there in the first place, and that’s a bit more complicated. Generally, there are a variety of ways it gets there, and a variety of things that can make the backfiring worse. But there’s a kicker, and something you should understand before we go any farther:

A motor in perfect tune will exhibit deceleration backfiring.

Therefore, just because your motor is banging it up, doesn’t mean there’s anything wrong. And consequently:

Getting rid of the noise means de-tuning your motor.

Yup. If you’ve jut got to eliminate that popping, you’ll have to accept the fact that your motor is going to be forced to run rich to do it, and that isn’t necessarily a good thing. So lets talk about what causes the problem.

Ok, so you’re riding along at some given rpm, and suddenly you decide to decelerate, and you reduce the amount of throttle. This causes an “overrun” – that is, the motors rpm is turning faster than the fuel provided can support, so the motor begins to spool down. This causes a couple of things to happen.

First, when you close the throttle, you are also closing the throttle plates. This reduces the air and fuel flowing into the motor, and increases the vacuum (lowers the pressure). This results in less air and fuel in the cylinder during the power stroke, which in turn results in a lower pressure in the combustion chamber. Remember I said earlier, that the A/F mix burns faster in proportion to the pressure applied? Well, when we reduce pressure this way, the mix burns slower. This results in two things happening.

1. The lower burning fuel generates less heat, and the cooling effect of the non-burning fuel tends to “quench” the flame front, or slow it down even further. Because the mix is burning much slower, the exhaust valve can open before all the fuel is consumed, and the unburnt fuel is ejected into the exhaust.
2. The engine designers, in order to promote smoother idling and better combustion, retard the spark when the throttle is shut, and this results in the mix being lit later.

So, now we end up with unburnt fuel in the exhaust, and burning fuel being ejected into the exhaust, and bang! Backfire. In addition, Honda has added a device called a “programmed air injection valve” (Pair Valve) that actually injects some fresh air into the exhaust to help this process along – since fully burning the fuel results in cleaner exhaust. So the backfiring is not only a normal part of the engines operation, it’s also intentionally amplified by Honda! Of course, normally, that massive bazooka pipe Honda hangs on your bike hides most of the noise, but it’s there, even when you can’t hear it.

So the bottom line, is: That backfiring is perfectly normal and expected. If you’ve just got get rid of it, that’s up to you. You’re entitled to set your motor up the way you want, and your goals are your goals. But don’t refer to it as “fixing” the popping. Rather, the correct way to think of it is “de-tuning a bit to get rid of the popping”.

There are a few ways you can do this.

First, use the stock pipe. It will hide the sound, by absorbing it into mass, and masking it with the larger baffle space. Second, you can add more fuel during deceleration. This has the effect of raising the chamber pressure slightly, which burns a little more before the exhaust valve opens. Lastly, you can remove the Pair valve, which reduces the amount of available oxygen in the pipe to burn the unburnt fuel.

Original lengthy more info article post- LINK
VTXOA.com • View topic - Air, Fuel, Motors, and missives. Article. (Updated 1/3/06)

Of course the S&S engines don't have a “programmed air injection valve” (Pair Valve) like the Honda bikes do so that tidbit of info is not relevant or useful.

Good luck!
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