Okay, I give... PLEASE HELP!!!

Energy One

Raywood

The Pirate
Staff member
Calendar Participant
Troop Supporter
Are you using the enriched? If so you may be fouling it out

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PitbullKC

Active Member
@KaptainAmerica: I'll try that 1st thing tomorrow. Wish I'd of done that months ago!

@Raywood: I never use the enrichner.
Just a twist or two of the throttle before before hitting 'start' usually gets it fired right up.
 

8ball

Active Member
Kaptain gave you the everytime basic elimination process for almost any engine problem, etch it in stone. Is your bike carburated or injected? Also how old is the battery? Is the idle strong or weak, when you twist the throttle is it slow to react?
 

bigdogtech01

Well-Known Member
Any time I have a possible electrical problem, I always start with the battery and work back. Make sure battery is good. Make sure charging system is in spec. (should be at least 13 VDC @ Idle-14.6 VDC Max at Idle to 3000rpm) Check for any loose wires at battery.
You stated that you have checked your ignition key switch...How? If it has a lot of play in it, or if the bike turns off with the slightest turn of the key back from the ON position, it's possible that the switch is bad and is turning off on you while riding.
Also, I'm surprised no one has said EHC yet. If the EHC is failing on the Engine run/stop circuit, this would cause the bike to shut down while going down the road.
What have you replaced the ignition system with? Brand? You replaced the entire Ignition system?
 

bigdogtech01

Well-Known Member
Also, you say the bike with not stay running longer than 5 min....How long do you let the bike sit before it will fire back up?
 
You guys need to ease up with all the questions.
The man is trying to troubleshoot a specific problem so lets "slowly" help him get to that problem. He already stated in his original post that the bike dies as if its starving for fuel he indicated a freshly charged new battery etc so it really seems to be either a fuel delivery issue or an ignition issue. Its not likely its an ignition switch issue as he stated that he has lights etc when the bike dies. There is a slight possibility it might be the ehc but the symptoms really aren't leaning towards that.
Juz sayin
 

bigdogtech01

Well-Known Member
One other thing I just thought of while working in the garage...Have you had the fuel tank off to check for any wire chafing? That particular year had problems with wires chafing under the fuel tank, in turn will cause a short and can cause an intermittent problem with the ignition system.
Your right Kaptin, I read past a couple parts that had stated he replaced his battery already. But part of the dio process is asking what he has and has not done already :)
 

PitbullKC

Active Member
Ran it for about 5mins til it died (as usual).
Checked both plugs, and I AM getting spark to both of them.

@8Ball:
Its carburated (S&S superG shorty).
Replaced battery with a new Braille.
It idles fine when its running.
As far as the throttle response...there is a slight hesitation when I initially crack the throttle open really fast. If I roll into it a slower, it responds fine. I have checked the acc pump set-screw by the way.

@bigdogtech01:
I haven't taken the tanks off yet. But I may have to. Its got the split tanks so I don't think there are any wires that aren't exposed between the tanks. But I could be wrong, maybe there's a pinched/chaffed wire under them.
I tested the battery with a multi-meter and its fine.
I tested the ignition switch w/ a multimeter and its fine. I tried to wiggle the key and switch while it was running to see if it has a short in it, but was fine.
 

bigdogtech01

Well-Known Member
Take your dash off the split tank so you can get to the wires. You will find an aluminum block under the dash, between the tanks. That block has a few grounds going into it. Make sure all grounds are good and tight.
 

DRBarnhart

Insert title here...
Take your dash off the split tank so you can get to the wires. You will find an aluminum block under the dash, between the tanks. That block has a few grounds going into it. Make sure all grounds are good and tight.
In an effort to get my own little brain wrapped around your thinking on this...

If the bike dies but yet all the lights work and he still has spark what would lead you to a wiring problem as opposed to a fuel issue?

Thanks,

Dennis
 

PitbullKC

Active Member
@Kaptin: It just dies. NO stumbling or sputtering.

@bigdogtech: I checked the ground wires between the tank, they are good.
 

bigdogtech01

Well-Known Member
In an effort to get my own little brain wrapped around your thinking on this...

If the bike dies but yet all the lights work and he still has spark what would lead you to a wiring problem as opposed to a fuel issue?

Thanks,

Dennis
If his bike runs for 5 min before it dies, it sounds more like an electrical problem. If he could post a video of it running just before it stalls, that might help with narrowing it down to fuel or Ignition. Does the bike fluctuate in idle just before it dies, or just cut out completely?
Its possible it's fuel. An easy check would be to turn fuel off the instant the motor cuts out, pull bowl plug on bottom of carb (with catch pan for fuel) and verify it has fuel in carburetor bowl.
Another check with it running would be to spray intake manifold for any intake leaks. But, the fact that the motor does run, and while running, runs good, I'm not sold on it being a fuel/air problem. But anythings possible.
Hope you find the problem soon. Good luck :up:
 

bigdogtech01

Well-Known Member
If you can get it to Wichita, we can take care of it
Doug 316-371-3980
Will 316-390-5161
Worse case, if you can't figure out the problem, I would give these guys a call. Will and Doug are great guys and know everything there is to know about Big dogs. Tell them I said Hi :hi: :D
 
Dying could still possibly be a vacuum lock issue.
Its clearly a thermal expansion issue of some kind since it continues to die at consistent intervals. Whether its fuel or electric will require continued troubleshooting. BDtechs suggestion of checking the bowl immediately after it dies is quick and easy so definitely try it to completely rule out fuel delivery issues to the carburetor.
Can you give us a little background on the time leading up to when this issue started?
 

PitbullKC

Active Member
A quick background info...
After sitting all winter, I only rode it about 3or4 weeks before it started doing it.
The first time it died, it started right back up and I rode it for another mile or two before it would die again. I was able to keep re-starting it in order to get it back home (another 5miles or so).
Next time I was able to ride it about 10miles before it died. It didn't start right back up. But eventually got it started and got it back home.

At first, I thought it was bad fuel. So I drained it and put new fuel in. Didn't help.
So at that point, I drained it again to check the tank for lining coming off, pulled the petcock out and inspected it, checked fuel line that connects the two split tanks, and bought a new fuel line that connects the tank to my carb.
But the problem still occurred.
Then I pulled my carb & thoroughly cleaned it, a couple times.
I disassembled the carb and let it sit in carb-cleaner over night.
Then sprayed cleaner through the jets, air holes, ejector nozzle, etc.
One thing I did notice is the fuel "stream" when I initially crack the throttle.
(see picture-the view is with the air filter/intake off, looking down the carb towards the engine)
Instead of there being a nice "fan" of fuel sprayed out of the carb, there are 3 jet streams.
I will definitely have to disassemble the carb again and check for debris.
I can see this causing it to stumble when cracking the throttle, but not the problem with it consistantly dying.
 

Attachments

Was she garaged or outside under a cover?
Locate your power lead from the EHC to your ignition module. Connect a Meter, negative to battery negative and positive to module wire do not disconnect from harness. Start the bike and watch the meter closely. Were looking for lost voltage exactly when the bike dies.
Do this for each positive lead through the ignition. ie EHC to module, module to coil. Lastly you need a an inline spark check tool to check for live spark when the bike dies.
 
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