Oil question, thoughts???

TapioK · Feb 22, 2017

Just an opinion, but if would be just a few drops, right? Hard to imagine it really matters.... But what do I know.

chubs · Feb 22, 2017

pauldeepsea said:
quick question,
So yesterday I did a complete fluid change on the bike. Filled the transmission with redline with shockproof. Tonight I decided to top off the oil tank off with the Mobil one synthetic. Well after topping it off I realized there was some residual redline transmission oil on my funnel that mixed with the oil.
I don't think it matters with the motor but wanted some of your thoughts?
1. Keep riding
2. Drain and refill?

Unless there was like maybe a pint left in the funnel , Keep riding :oldthumbsup:

(just my opinion, been wrong a time or three though)

Th3InfamousI · Feb 22, 2017

It would not concern me the slightest. Have to be more than residual funnel. It will mix in with the Mobil1

Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk

BadDawg Bill · Feb 22, 2017

The tiny bit that went in there won't make a bit of difference... Sleep well.

Mickeetwo · Feb 22, 2017

BadDawg Bill said:
The tiny bit that went in there won't make a bit of difference... Sleep well.

X2

SMCT · Feb 22, 2017

I'd be more concerned about the Mobil oil then that slight amount of trans fluid that went in. I wouldn't wish it on my worst enemy. It's a commercially available oil and it's ppm content of zinc and phosphorus are well below the limits of what should be in an engine. Not a big fan of synthetics in an application other than a full race environment, and that's because it's a super lubricant and does have an affect over a period of time on ring adhesion. Yes a synthetic can withstand more heat without the breakdown, only if you run an engine over the limits of it's intended use and do not change the oil. If you're up on oil changes and you take care of your stuff, then a petroleum based oil is actually better.

DrRx · Feb 22, 2017

What is this shockproof you speak of?

DrRx- "DOC"
2007 bulldog/2009 K-9

Nukeranger · Feb 22, 2017

I've been using Mobile Oil for a long time and haven't had any issues!

bdm7250 · Feb 22, 2017

pauldeepsea said:
Any preference on oil? I have been using the mobile full syn for years and change it around 3k.

I use Royal Purple in everything, have done so for a number of years. You can feel the difference..but that's only my opinion.

cdogg556 · Feb 22, 2017

SMCT said:
I'd be more concerned about the Mobile oil then that slight amount of trans fluid that went in. I wouldn't wish it on my worst enemy. It's a commercially available oil and it's ppm content of zinc and phosphorus are well below the limits of what should be in an engine. Not a big fan of synthetics in an application other than a full race environment, and that's because it's a super lubricant and does have an affect over a period of time on ring adhesion. Yes a synthetic can withstand more heat without the breakdown, only if you run an engine over the limits of it's intended use and do not change the oil. If you're up on oil changes and you take care of your stuff, then a petroleum based oil is actually better.

Hmm, makes ya think,

don't it. Gotta ask where you got this info Andy? :oldconfused:

Never heard this before, not say'n it's bullshit, just would like to see some kind of technical info on it, :yesnod:

interesting though. :oldthumbsup:

Hirter6Pack · Feb 22, 2017

cdogg556 said:
Hmm, makes ya think,

don't it. Gotta ask where you got this info Andy? Never heard this before, not say'n it's bullshit, just would like to see some kind of technical info on it, interesting though.

I thought Mobile 1 was the preferred oil by S&S before they relabeled it with their own name.

Mickeetwo · Feb 22, 2017

I wouldn't be concerned about mixing the oils....as far as Mobil 1 not being good for your motor, I've never heard that. S&S used to recommend Mobil 1 in there motors. Personally I just run regular 20w50 V-twin oil in mine and change it out every 3000 miles. I used Mobil 1 once on a oil change and I had more top end noise with it, louder ticking, so I went back to regular 20w50.

SMCT · Feb 23, 2017

It's not alarming that many people use this oil, and many people tend to gravitate to the companies that happen to have the best marketing as well as the easiest accessible products. Hell, you can walk into any walmart and buy yourself some. You can walk into any super market and get yourself some as well. I've been at it, and in the engine building business for quite some time, so I get first hand experience to look into these engines season after season and year after year. We study failures very closely. Years ago I was a huge fan of Mobil synthetics and that was through the 80's, and as the times changed, so did the Mobil product, and in my opinion, not for the better. I've witnessed just an excessive amount of tapet failures on Mobile oil and I have gone away from that mass marketed and mass produced product. My personal choice for an easy to get oil, is Valvoline VR1 Racing non synthetic. the VV 205 is a 10-30 and the VV211 is the 20-50. We use this in our engine shop and it does have 1100 ppm (Parts per million) of phosphorous and 1100 parts per million of zinc. It's the phos content that really protects that metal to metal interaction in the engine. The mobile along with many other "shelf oils" have less than the limit of 700. 700 is the legal limitation for zinc and phos content to be sold on a shelf. Some other oils that are really good in my opinion are Synergyn, Shaffer, Joe Gibbs and Amsoil. Some of the oils I mentioned have close to, if not over 2000 PPM of zinc and phos.

I have Valvoline VR1 Racing 20-50 in my 117 S&S engine.

Lorenzo · Feb 23, 2017

SMCT said:
It's not alarming that many people use this oil, and many people tend to gravitate to the companies that happen to have the best marketing as well as the easiest accessible products. Hell, you can walk into any walmart and buy yourself some. You can walk into any super market and get yourself some as well. I've been at it, and in the engine building business for quite some time, so I get first hand experience to look into these engines season after season and year after year. We study failures very closely. Years ago I was a huge fan of Mobil synthetics and that was through the 80's, and as the times changed, so did the Mobil product, and in my opinion, not for the better. I've witnessed just an excessive amount of tapet failures on Mobile oil and I have gone away from that mass marketed and mass produced product. My personal choice for an easy to get oil, is Valvoline VR1 Racing non synthetic. the VV 205 is a 10-30 and the VV211 is the 20-50. We use this in our engine shop and it does have 1100 ppm (Parts per million) of phosphorous and 1100 parts per million of zinc. It's the phos content that really protects that metal to metal interaction in the engine. The mobile along with many other "shelf oils" have less than the limit of 700. 700 is the legal limitation for zinc and phos content to be sold on a shelf. Some other oils that are really good in my opinion are Synergyn, Shaffer, Joe Gibbs and Amsoil. Some of the oils I mentioned have close to, if not over 2000 PPM of zinc and phos.

I have Valvoline VR1 Racing 20-50 in my 117 S&S engine.

Out of curiousity, what do you think of Lucus products? I use Lucas 75w140 in my tranny and Lucas Syn 20w50 in motor. I have a 2007 K9. I did notice a change in upper engine noise on my 2011 Tri Glide. I used Mobil 1 for years but switched to the Lucas Syn oil and it is a little quieter. Your thoughts??

DrRx · Feb 23, 2017

Ok here is the question, I have that little tapping noise at higher Rpms in my new k-9 which is understand is normal in s&s engines, who had that then switched oil and got rid of it? What oils did you switch too? I run amsoil 20-50. I know it's nothing but it drives me crazy and always think there's something wrong with my bike

DrRx- "DOC"
2007 bulldog/2009 K-9

cdogg556 · Feb 23, 2017

SMCT said:
It's not alarming that many people use this oil, and many people tend to gravitate to the companies that happen to have the best marketing as well as the easiest accessible products. Hell, you can walk into any walmart and buy yourself some. You can walk into any super market and get yourself some as well. I've been at it, and in the engine building business for quite some time, so I get first hand experience to look into these engines season after season and year after year. We study failures very closely. Years ago I was a huge fan of Mobil synthetics and that was through the 80's, and as the times changed, so did the Mobil product, and in my opinion, not for the better. I've witnessed just an excessive amount of tapet failures on Mobile oil and I have gone away from that mass marketed and mass produced product. My personal choice for an easy to get oil, is Valvoline VR1 Racing non synthetic. the VV 205 is a 10-30 and the VV211 is the 20-50. We use this in our engine shop and it does have 1100 ppm (Parts per million) of phosphorous and 1100 parts per million of zinc. It's the phos content that really protects that metal to metal interaction in the engine. The mobile along with many other "shelf oils" have less than the limit of 700. 700 is the legal limitation for zinc and phos content to be sold on a shelf. Some other oils that are really good in my opinion are Synergyn, Shaffer, Joe Gibbs and Amsoil. Some of the oils I mentioned have close to, if not over 2000 PPM of zinc and phos.

I have Valvoline VR1 Racing 20-50 in my 117 S&S engine.

Thanks for the "Detailed" explanation Andy! :old2:

I think I am gonna try the Valvoline on the next oil change. :yesnod:

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