Oil from exhaust

Energy One
bigkelk9

bigkelk9

Well-Known Member
So, yeah it’s been a while since I been on here, well ever since it was changed, the first day it was changed was the last day I came on... so with that being said, kinda missed all y’all and now I need some help. Life got real and I got super busy and the time isn’t there as it once was. So please forgive me.
But back to the point, as some of y’all know I did all these upgrades to the K9 and the bike has never been the same, kinda wish I woulda kept it stock really, but anyways, I did my first burnout a while back and after she barely made it home (about 20 miles). After she wouldn’t start, and was blowing oil from the exhaust, so I checked the basics, pistons and rings are all new Carrillo pistons, they were good, changed the head gasket even though they looked fine but it’s hard to tell with Cometic gaskets. But n e ways changed em, put her all back together and took her for a spin and she broke down on me and did the same thing started spewing oil from the exhaust while turning her over... ideas would be great! Thanks fellas
 
41bigdawg

41bigdawg

Let the Big Dawg eat !
Hey Brother, glad to see you back :) Other than Dalia having some issues hope everything else is going well. I don't have any answers for you on your issue but I am sure help is on the way from the others. Great to hear from ya :chopper:
 
Mastiff Rider64

Mastiff Rider64

Well-Known Member
bigkelk9 said:
So, yeah it’s been a while since I been on here, well ever since it was changed, the first day it was changed was the last day I came on... so with that being said, kinda missed all y’all and now I need some help. Life got real and I got super busy and the time isn’t there as it once was. So please forgive me.
But back to the point, as some of y’all know I did all these upgrades to the K9 and the bike has never been the same, kinda wish I woulda kept it stock really, but anyways, I did my first burnout a while back and after she barely made it home (about 20 miles). After she wouldn’t start, and was blowing oil from the exhaust, so I checked the basics, pistons and rings are all new Carrillo pistons, they were good, changed the head gasket even though they looked fine but it’s hard to tell with Cometic gaskets. But n e ways changed em, put her all back together and took her for a spin and she broke down on me and did the same thing started spewing oil from the exhaust while turning her over... ideas would be great! Thanks fellas
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I might be able to offer some ideas. You said you did a burn out and this started? Well I didn't do a burn out but I did have my bike jump out of third gear a few times while getting on it hard. And that hard quick rev caused what a mechanic called Free Spin(correct me if I'm wrong in calling it free spin guys). Not 100 percent he wasn't blowing smoke up my ass, but I had a shit ton of motor work done to my 117. Pistons, heads completely decked, valves, lifter, springs, .600 cam, but any way. One day I was riding and decided to jump on it from a red light, and when I hit third gear it pulled for a sec then boom, jumped out of gear. Causing me to create free spin of the valve or lifters or something . Shortly after this happened I came to another red light and I was blowing blueish smoke out rear exhaust pipe. I have the Sinful Hotrod FSD pipes so my leg was at the rear exhaust pipe and my pants leg after sitting at different red lights (maybe 12 cause I was in NC when it happened) was covered in oil, my riding jeans then became my work on thing jeans. I took bike to mechanic and he tore the heads apart and seen I had busted a valve seat. Now my bike would run, not the best but I was more worried about running out of oil than the bike not making it somewhere. But check your valves, valve seat would be my advise, cause if I'm correct thru or around the valve is the only way for oil to get to the exhaust.
 
bigkelk9

bigkelk9

Well-Known Member
Mastiff Rider64 said:
I might be able to offer some ideas. You said you did a burn out and this started? Well I didn't do a burn out but I did have my bike jump out of third gear a few times while getting on it hard. And that hard quick rev caused what a mechanic called Free Spin(correct me if I'm wrong in calling it free spin guys). Not 100 percent he wasn't blowing smoke up my ass, but I had a shit ton of motor work done to my 117. Pistons, heads completely decked, valves, lifter, springs, .600 cam, but any way. One day I was riding and decided to jump on it from a red light, and when I hit third gear it pulled for a sec then boom, jumped out of gear. Causing me to create free spin of the valve or lifters or something . Shortly after this happened I came to another red light and I was blowing blueish smoke out rear exhaust pipe. I have the Sinful Hotrod FSD pipes so my leg was at the rear exhaust pipe and my pants leg after sitting at different red lights (maybe 12 cause I was in NC when it happened) was covered in oil, my riding jeans then became my work on thing jeans. I took bike to mechanic and he tore the heads apart and seen I had busted a valve seat. Now my bike would run, not the best but I was more worried about running out of oil than the bike not making it somewhere. But check your valves, valve seat would be my advise, cause if I'm correct thru or around the valve is the only way for oil to get to the exhaust.
Click to expand...
Appreciate that for sure, that was gonna he my guess but I wasn’t too quick to take my heads down and have em checked. I have em sitting by the bike right now. But yeah I did a lot of work on her, sent them heads off and had valves put in to match the 600 cam, bored it over just a hair cuz my jugs were oblong, threw Carrillo pistons in it. The heads were spun dropped to increase compression which I wish I would have never done because I’m not a fan of them Cometic gaskets.
 
bigkelk9

bigkelk9

Well-Known Member
41bigdawg said:
Hey Brother, glad to see you back :) Other than Dalia having some issues hope everything else is going well. I don't have any answers for you on your issue but I am sure help is on the way from the others. Great to hear from ya :chopper:
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Yeah bro, I’m great man, life is good! The wife and I just celebrated our 1 year anniversary on 12/13/19, kiddos are growing like weeds and think I’m the best daddy in the world. So life’s good man! Hope all is well with you too my brotha!
 
Mastiff Rider64

Mastiff Rider64

Well-Known Member
I did just about the same thing to my 117, I blew the valve seat at 300 miles, blew the motor at 500 miles. Sent to motor to S&S to find out what happened after the mechanic told me not to come back to his shop. Turns out it was workman ship issues. He somehow some way left the firing ring on the pistons after having the heads shaved. I was running 10.5 to 1 compression. But yeah s&s found so much wrong that it would have costed 3,000 plus to rebuild motor. I recently trade motor for work done at my local shop even tho I think they took me for a ride on the prices they charge, then finding out they didn't do what they were suppose to.
 
bikeone

bikeone

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Hi,
Had u checked oil rings and Cylinder Heads for defects like Valve seat, Head cracks and Oil channels are free?
Did u change anything on the oil pump?
Hadn`t this issue before - Just my thought.
 
bigkelk9

bigkelk9

Well-Known Member
bikeone said:
Hi,
Had u checked oil rings and Cylinder Heads for defects like Valve seat, Head cracks and Oil channels are free?
Did u change anything on the oil pump?
Hadn`t this issue before - Just my thought.
Click to expand...
I have my heads off, but don’t have the spring compressors to take them apart and all that, so I’ll be taking them to the machine shop and see what they say cuz that’s all I can think of really.
 
S

Sven

Well-Known Member
Someone correct my way of looking at a seat walking. If a seat follows the valve, comes back up with the valve and lands on the same spot, i.e., the exact same spot each time, I'm going with a new pattern going looser? I now have to find excess oil from somewhere. If the valve guide to valve stem clearance is .001" give or take, that seat rocking is going to crush away more than, ahhhh the guide cracked? I can see excess oil down the guide.

This free spin shit. 3rd pops out and the engine revs up? I can see looking at free spin meaning the same thing. That says, no load to keep the rpm's down. But do we have a built in rev limiter? Then no engine damage, just a quality control/WOT R(ev) the odds I'm hearing seat sinking/floating on said year or just a few flukes along the way. Sinking up the head? That's more or less causing a tighter valve, not a walk that cracks the guide or shifts the guide in the head. Sort of like a / kind of slant of the guide for leak purposes. I think that calls for an over sized guide replacement. It sort of peened the aluminum or pushed the molecules tighter.

Remember, Vac acts like E. It finds the shortest path and that is sucking air at that .001" or larger gap at the guide. Every 4th stroke times thousands of rpm's, and each suck pulls oil into the chamber. We are talking liquid, not some lick off the guide at .001". Theory wise, a worn guide exceeding say .004", it rocks that much to pull the lip away around the one side of the guide seal and there is your oil draw upon lift/morning startup; then clears up. So you need to imagine it sucking oil out at each suck stroke, because that little gets burned off. You never see it unless you lift, look behind you and gas it at the same time to see it puff out blue smoke. That, or when you let it sit, the oil runs down the guide, down the stem, the back of the face, drips on the piston, is fired off. That's a guide problem.

Ring wise, it smokes all the time on the fire stroke. Anything from a cracked ring, [but that would lose compression some]; oil temp the cylinder walls so hot it glazes, [but you do not see it out the pipe or wet at the exhaust port]; to reversing the rings so it pumps up, not down is the oil scraper ring, [but you'd know that on fire up]; where...

... only the dip stick/window level/indent-painted level on the oil bag>>> knows for sure.
 
bikeone

bikeone

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
A simply test shows you proof or leakin without tools.
Bring Piston side of the heads to Top.
Fill up the Burning chamber with Gas.
Look after overnight and u see the seats leak or not
Leak detection Spray (Cleaner- colour - developer) would be another option.(Liqui Moly /3 M sell that stuff.)
 
bigkelk9

bigkelk9

Well-Known Member
bikeone said:
A simply test shows you proof or leakin without tools.
Bring Piston side of the heads to Top.
Fill up the Burning chamber with Gas.
Look after overnight and u see the seats leak or not
Leak detection Spray (Cleaner- colour - developer) would be another option.(Liqui Moly /3 M sell that stuff.)
Click to expand...
The heads are off the bike
 
S

Sven

Well-Known Member
Place the valve face horizontally. Spray lots of contact or brake clean down the port so it's past the seat. That vapor it going to sting the eyes so have a good light filling up the port when looking down there. Flip the head and check that valve leak.
No leak, not bad. Still can leak when rocking the valve in the guide without spring and feeling too much play.

Look down the port and see if the nose of the guide is broken off. I mean the odds of that chunk not killing the chamber but exits out the exhaust without it being crushed? If gone, I'd shake the muffler and see if it clangs inside. But if open pipe? Lucky you. But I kind of think it would be crushed on the valve closing, get caught at the side of the piston and be crushed when TDC would maybe collapse the top ring groove somewhere.
 
bigkelk9

bigkelk9

Well-Known Member
So, taking heads jugs and pistons to machine shop and have them check everything. No more guessing. I’ll keep you posted, but what I got for measurements on my mic when I checked my rings doesn’t match up with what it’s supposed to be 30 over with the Carrillo pistons. So I’m praying it’s just new rings and set correctly.
 
bigkelk9

bigkelk9

Well-Known Member
So everything spec’d out good, put her back together and she runs how she should aside from my carb. So I need to rebuild it or just replace it.. any suggestions on who to send it to or anyone looking to get rid of a good carb?
 
mleach72

mleach72

Well-Known Member
bigkelk9 said:
So everything spec’d out good, put her back together and she runs how she should aside from my carb. So I need to rebuild it or just replace it.. any suggestions on who to send it to or anyone looking to get rid of a good carb?
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I highly recommend a mikuni. I know a lot of guys here love their g carbs. I certainly understand that. They are relatively easy to tune, work very well at WOT, and are American made (which I can appreciate), but they are generally considered "old technology". The Mikunis have a slide that doesn't produce turbulence like the butterfly on s&s carbs. The result is much smoother throttle response. The tuning capabilities are also much greater on the Mikunis. Throttle ranges can be adjusted without effecting other ranges, which is nearly impossible with other carbs. This is why Mikunis get better fuel mileage. The low range on the carb can be adjusted to be as lean as it needs to be for best mpg, but it will have no affect on mid range thottle openings, and at WOT it will make maximum hp if the right main jet is installed. JMHO.
 
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